Just bought a 04 650
#11
03-03-2010, 11:33 PM
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i cant help with the choke cable. i have no expierence with them as of yet. The brake pads ive just gotten from the dealer. ive only had to buy them once in 4,500 miles. Im sure someone can tell you of a cheaper place to get them. You may just google it and look at other sites thats what i usually do.
I also eliminated the doubt that the master cylinder is any good. I have looked EVERYWHERE online and couldn't find one. I know they are expensive, but i'd probably get one if i can find it, just so i don't have to mess with making one from another atv work. I think i'll be SOL on that, so i have already started contacts people on ebay selling master cylinder with the distance of the mounting holes. I figure i can get that to bold up, and then will probably change the length of the shaft.
#12
03-04-2010, 10:54 AM
That is a common prob. with the choke cable . My bud has the same prob. replaced 2 times ,when they get frozen they break most common if you leave them outside in the winter or mud gets in them.As for the rad. he must have had some kind of prob. as stated prev. plugged rad. or bad sensor.500 mi. sorry but sounds like this guy was really putting the boots to this quad, and didnt fix as things broke, still if you fix her up you should have a good quad. good luck.
#13
03-08-2010, 10:23 AM
I have an 05 V2 and I love it, your problems are common ones, here are some tips and thoughts. Hope this helps!!!
650 V-Twin “Need to do” mods and tips:
1. Get the RF filter installed by your dealer. This prevents false trips by the belt
sensor. The part # if any one interested it is 0430-044A. A false trip will put your
machine into “Limp Mode”, which limits your quad to 8mph (give or take), and
could put you in a jam if you are out in the bush.
2. Get the belt reset jumper from your dealer. This should be a free part. This is
used to reset the belt sensor in the event that you get a false trip. Keep it
somewhere on your bike at all times so it is available whenever you need it.
3. Flashing belt light (limp mode) resetting procedure:
1. Unplug the 4 pin connection in the harness just above the clutch.
2. Plug in your jumper to the male end.
3. Unplug the 2 wire plug closest to the 4 pin (Not the one going to the belt
failure switch)
4. Turn your key on to run position. The belt light on the dash will flash fast at
first, then change to slow flash after a few seconds.
5. Turn key off, reconnect 2 pin plug and remove jumper and plug the 4 pin
plug back together. It should now be reset.
4. Solid belt light (service reminder) resetting procedure:
1. Turn ignition off.
2. Unplug 4 pin plug, and insert jumper/key.
3. Turn ignition on.
4. While belt light is flashing, unplug 2 pin plug (the one from the belt cover).
5. Turn ignition off.
6. Reconnect 2 pin and 4 pin plugs, and turn ignition back on.
5. Check belt deflection. Most of the 650’s come on the loose end of the tolerance
scale and need to be tightened up after just a short period of time. Reshimming
your clutch will tighten the belt, thus preventing it from burning up prematurely
with stock tires. Here is a link that shows you how to do that, complete with
pictures. It’s is incredibly informative. Plan on it taking 2-3 hours your first time
as you learn how to do it. If you have to go back in and do it again later, it will
only probably tak you 45 minutes or so start to finish.
Kisssofdeath's ATV Photos
tures
6. When trail riding, it’s best to drive in low…not high. This goes against
everything that we’ve been told about driving in low on any kind of machinery.
However, these Cats are geared to run up to 45-50mph in low (in factory stock
condition). Driving in high gear on the trails (through mud, over downed trees,
etc…) has proven to many of us to burn up belts prematurely. Use high gear for
the straightaway trails where your speed doesn’t vary a great deal and you aren’t
going up steep inclines. While yes, you can go through trails in high gear, your
belt will be susceptible to premature failure.
7. 2004 models have a different set of exhaust shield grommets. The shield uses a
pair of bolts to secure it to the exhaust. These bolt heads get extremely hot and
can burn your leg and/or rainsuits that many riders wear during a trail ride. To fix
this issue, simply get the grommets that come on the 05 on up models and install
them. It takes $5 of your money and 2 minutes of your time and are available at
your dealership. Arctic Cat part number 0423-533.
8. Keep your choke cables well lubricated and protected. The 650’s have a tendency
to have choke cables stick, causing major headaches on a cold start. Keeping
these lubed from the start will only help your cause as the days/months/years roll
by.
9. Some people with 2004-05 models have reported frames cracking. While there
haven’t been many (if any) reports of the cracked frame causing injuries or
accidents, it is a situation that needs to be addressed by your dealer. Arctic Cat
knows of this issue, and has to date replaced them free of charge, although some
dealers will still charge you the $50 deductible. The frame situation is not an
“epidemic”, but there’s been enough reported to constitute periodic visual checks
of your frame. The later 2005 and all 2006 models have a more robust frame,
which includes a brace under the seat to reinforce the frame.
10. The 2004-05 models are susceptible to soft/non-existent rear foot brakes. This is
due to a faulty rear master cylinder design and can be fixed by replacing the old
one with a 2006 master cylinder. On a side note, the 2006 master cylinder is
cheaper than the 2004/05 part (so I’m told). As a point of clarification, the hand
brake (which operates both the front and rear brakes simultaneously) works
perfectly fine. This strictly pertains to the foot brake only.
11. When in Reverse, be careful. The reverse gearing isn’t geared all that low, so if
you are really stuck in mud or are pulling someone out it may cause the belt to
slip a bit. While I personally have not had this issue (I pulled out a 660 Grizz in
reverse with no slippage), others have smoked their belt doing various feats in
reverse. The best advice here really is to just monitor your machine when under
load in reverse. If you feel it starting to slip…STOP! If you smell a burning
rubber smell….STOP! Just backing up in reverse poses no threats to your belt.
650 V-Twin “Nice to do” mods:
12. Ignition Control Modules or ICM’s (which is used as a fairly generic term on this
site) can make a substantial difference in power..
a. The Moose brand module (http://www.mooseutilities.com) is:
i. Inexpensive (under $100)
ii. Available at http://www.theoutdoorshopinc.com/ iii. Gives you more low end power by advancing the timing that
AC/Kawasaki retarded during production.
iv. Is a plug and play part (requires no cutting/splicing of wires).
v. No rejetting is required.
vi. Does not replace stock CDI.
vii. Other non-moose brand models may require splicing and may offer
different performance levels.
b. The Copperhead will:
i. Give you a power boost throughout the entire power band
ii. Runs you $300U, give or take.
iii. Replaces the stock CDI.
iv. Allows you to customize your performance by programming it
with your home computer and their software.
v. Unclear if rejetting is necessary, but I do not believe it is.
vi. Other brand units are also available and may offer different
performance levels.
13. If you plow, run larger/non-stock tires, pull heavy loads, or simply want more low
end power/torque, installing aftermarket clutch springs may be the solution you
need. There are many different combinations available just as there are many
different riding styles and tire combinations available. To determine which is best
for you, post a question and someone will come along with some advice/opinions
for your particular application. 14. If you enjoy going into deeper mud and/or water, then you should consider
snorkeling your airbox intake, belt housing intake, belt housing exhaust and
differential. This extends the air ports to a higher level, thus allowing you to
forge through deeper trails without introducing water into those areas that water is
not welcomed and/or detrimental. Additionally, snorkeling your airbox will
introduce cooler air into the combustion process, giving you more power. In the
stock setup, the intake takes air that is warmed up by the engine, which doesn’t
give you as much power as you could. When snorkeling your airbox, if you leave
a 1.5” reducer in the system, you will not need to rejet. However, if you run 2”
snorkels with no reducer, then you will likely need to rejet. Snorkel kits can
either be made or purchased.
sensor. The part # if any one interested it is 0430-044A. A false trip will put your
machine into “Limp Mode”, which limits your quad to 8mph (give or take), and
could put you in a jam if you are out in the bush.
2. Get the belt reset jumper from your dealer. This should be a free part. This is
used to reset the belt sensor in the event that you get a false trip. Keep it
somewhere on your bike at all times so it is available whenever you need it.
3. Flashing belt light (limp mode) resetting procedure:
1. Unplug the 4 pin connection in the harness just above the clutch.
2. Plug in your jumper to the male end.
3. Unplug the 2 wire plug closest to the 4 pin (Not the one going to the belt
failure switch)
4. Turn your key on to run position. The belt light on the dash will flash fast at
first, then change to slow flash after a few seconds.
5. Turn key off, reconnect 2 pin plug and remove jumper and plug the 4 pin
plug back together. It should now be reset.
4. Solid belt light (service reminder) resetting procedure:
1. Turn ignition off.
2. Unplug 4 pin plug, and insert jumper/key.
3. Turn ignition on.
4. While belt light is flashing, unplug 2 pin plug (the one from the belt cover).
5. Turn ignition off.
6. Reconnect 2 pin and 4 pin plugs, and turn ignition back on.
5. Check belt deflection. Most of the 650’s come on the loose end of the tolerance
scale and need to be tightened up after just a short period of time. Reshimming
your clutch will tighten the belt, thus preventing it from burning up prematurely
with stock tires. Here is a link that shows you how to do that, complete with
pictures. It’s is incredibly informative. Plan on it taking 2-3 hours your first time
as you learn how to do it. If you have to go back in and do it again later, it will
only probably tak you 45 minutes or so start to finish.
Kisssofdeath's ATV Photos
tures
6. When trail riding, it’s best to drive in low…not high. This goes against
everything that we’ve been told about driving in low on any kind of machinery.
However, these Cats are geared to run up to 45-50mph in low (in factory stock
condition). Driving in high gear on the trails (through mud, over downed trees,
etc…) has proven to many of us to burn up belts prematurely. Use high gear for
the straightaway trails where your speed doesn’t vary a great deal and you aren’t
going up steep inclines. While yes, you can go through trails in high gear, your
belt will be susceptible to premature failure.
7. 2004 models have a different set of exhaust shield grommets. The shield uses a
pair of bolts to secure it to the exhaust. These bolt heads get extremely hot and
can burn your leg and/or rainsuits that many riders wear during a trail ride. To fix
this issue, simply get the grommets that come on the 05 on up models and install
them. It takes $5 of your money and 2 minutes of your time and are available at
your dealership. Arctic Cat part number 0423-533.
8. Keep your choke cables well lubricated and protected. The 650’s have a tendency
to have choke cables stick, causing major headaches on a cold start. Keeping
these lubed from the start will only help your cause as the days/months/years roll
by.
9. Some people with 2004-05 models have reported frames cracking. While there
haven’t been many (if any) reports of the cracked frame causing injuries or
accidents, it is a situation that needs to be addressed by your dealer. Arctic Cat
knows of this issue, and has to date replaced them free of charge, although some
dealers will still charge you the $50 deductible. The frame situation is not an
“epidemic”, but there’s been enough reported to constitute periodic visual checks
of your frame. The later 2005 and all 2006 models have a more robust frame,
which includes a brace under the seat to reinforce the frame.
10. The 2004-05 models are susceptible to soft/non-existent rear foot brakes. This is
due to a faulty rear master cylinder design and can be fixed by replacing the old
one with a 2006 master cylinder. On a side note, the 2006 master cylinder is
cheaper than the 2004/05 part (so I’m told). As a point of clarification, the hand
brake (which operates both the front and rear brakes simultaneously) works
perfectly fine. This strictly pertains to the foot brake only.
11. When in Reverse, be careful. The reverse gearing isn’t geared all that low, so if
you are really stuck in mud or are pulling someone out it may cause the belt to
slip a bit. While I personally have not had this issue (I pulled out a 660 Grizz in
reverse with no slippage), others have smoked their belt doing various feats in
reverse. The best advice here really is to just monitor your machine when under
load in reverse. If you feel it starting to slip…STOP! If you smell a burning
rubber smell….STOP! Just backing up in reverse poses no threats to your belt.
650 V-Twin “Nice to do” mods:
12. Ignition Control Modules or ICM’s (which is used as a fairly generic term on this
site) can make a substantial difference in power..
a. The Moose brand module (http://www.mooseutilities.com) is:
i. Inexpensive (under $100)
ii. Available at http://www.theoutdoorshopinc.com/ iii. Gives you more low end power by advancing the timing that
AC/Kawasaki retarded during production.
iv. Is a plug and play part (requires no cutting/splicing of wires).
v. No rejetting is required.
vi. Does not replace stock CDI.
vii. Other non-moose brand models may require splicing and may offer
different performance levels.
b. The Copperhead will:
i. Give you a power boost throughout the entire power band
ii. Runs you $300U, give or take.
iii. Replaces the stock CDI.
iv. Allows you to customize your performance by programming it
with your home computer and their software.
v. Unclear if rejetting is necessary, but I do not believe it is.
vi. Other brand units are also available and may offer different
performance levels.
13. If you plow, run larger/non-stock tires, pull heavy loads, or simply want more low
end power/torque, installing aftermarket clutch springs may be the solution you
need. There are many different combinations available just as there are many
different riding styles and tire combinations available. To determine which is best
for you, post a question and someone will come along with some advice/opinions
for your particular application. 14. If you enjoy going into deeper mud and/or water, then you should consider
snorkeling your airbox intake, belt housing intake, belt housing exhaust and
differential. This extends the air ports to a higher level, thus allowing you to
forge through deeper trails without introducing water into those areas that water is
not welcomed and/or detrimental. Additionally, snorkeling your airbox will
introduce cooler air into the combustion process, giving you more power. In the
stock setup, the intake takes air that is warmed up by the engine, which doesn’t
give you as much power as you could. When snorkeling your airbox, if you leave
a 1.5” reducer in the system, you will not need to rejet. However, if you run 2”
snorkels with no reducer, then you will likely need to rejet. Snorkel kits can
either be made or purchased.
#14
03-08-2010, 07:42 PM
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Awesome write-up! I will print and keep it in a zip lock bag. I wish i had known about the master cylinder. I ordered one off of a suzuki race quid which i will try to make fit. I almost fell out of my chair when the dealer told me that master cyclinder was $300+. I got the Suzuki one for $25. The mounting holes are the same, i will just have to lengthen the shaft. I will tell you how that goes in the next following days.
Other than that, i have replaced all of my brake pads, but i need new rotors, which i cant find. I put the pads on because i needed the quad to put up "no hunting" signs on my lease. I also put a new choke lever and grommet that i bought from Ken's, ran me about $15 and was an easy fix.
Seems like she's getting back in to shape. If anyone knows where i can get rotors for that thing, it would be appreciated greatly.
Other than that, i have replaced all of my brake pads, but i need new rotors, which i cant find. I put the pads on because i needed the quad to put up "no hunting" signs on my lease. I also put a new choke lever and grommet that i bought from Ken's, ran me about $15 and was an easy fix.
Seems like she's getting back in to shape. If anyone knows where i can get rotors for that thing, it would be appreciated greatly.
#15
03-08-2010, 09:12 PM
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rotors
the rotors are a/c part #0402-874. look on www.babbitsonline.com under your year bike. its in the wheel and tire section. retails for $24.02.
#17
03-09-2010, 06:06 AM
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#18
03-18-2010, 09:38 AM
I have an 04 650 v2 and really like it. When taking it to dealer in winter of 1995, I washed in coin car wash. The choke cable froze and when dealer started quad to get off of truck the choke broke so I had to pay for cable and lever. No problems since and actually started better in cold weather once replaced. The rear brake, even when working properly, is a piece of junk. The hand brake is great. My rear brake does not even work. My dealer said it would cost about $300 or more to fix, would not work any better than originally and the repair would not last - so I live without the rear brake. Had trouble with belt. Replaced it and always drive in low gear up to 50mph and have never had any problems since. My belt sensor light is on 24/7. Dealer said that when the belt broke it wrecked part of the housing where the sensor was and would cost a lot to fix so I live with the light on. Moose mod perked it up a bit. Great quad and a great workhorse. The 2" receiver is terricfic.
#19
03-19-2010, 09:14 AM
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#20
03-20-2010, 02:05 PM
You can also try www.nationalrepotdepot.com I recommend that you call and check they actually have it in stock before you pay for it.. they have great prices but don't update their stock all the time..
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