Cowboy, that same day I flipped, the guy on the big bear caught a limb or something and ripped his front left mudflap damn near clean off. Only one rivet was holding what was left of it. He hasn't had it a month yet so that has to suck. I ran like a 1 1/2" limb into mine one time a year ago, and its just bent out a little. I'd have to say that AC uses better plastic for fenders and flaps than yamaha. Its hard and durable, but when it does have to flex, it doesn't break. You would think they would be brittle being as stiff as they are.

 

I really dont see where you get that we say the belt is worse at mudding. The only thing that was said about that, was allot atleast allott of the older quads with the cvt had that problem of letting water in by the belt and would cause it to slip. There is no denying that. Most of the new ones do a very good job of keeping the water though. I said that cvt style transmission looses allot of power the more rpms they spin. As far as what you said it is true. But if a person knows there quad and is a good shifter that stuff wont happen. Its like drag racing cars. A stick will be faster then a auto if the driver know how to drive, But allot of time thats not the case because the person driving the car doesnt know how to get the performance out. So they would be actually faster in the auto. Autos are wonderfull but some of us still love to shift.
matty

 

I used to submerge my wheeler pretty good, getting the belt wet was no biggie. It would slip but it would still go. The manufacturer recalled the belt for that year so I complied and had it replaced. Evidently, either they didn't get the belt cover back on right or the belt is a lot slicker, because if this belt gets even a little water on it, forget about it. It won't move a lick. I really need to check it out and see if they got the cover back on right or what. But back to the mud question; I've had several 4x4s and the autos just seem to do a lot better in it, unless, as you stated, I happen to take on a little water in the belt housing. Then it's Warn winch time....and hope there's something to hook it to.

 

Than why do the shift model 500 4x4s like Suzuki,Artic Cat,450Foreman and Traxter not do anything better than the belt trannys 4x4s in fact the perfmore even less.If all those quads had belt trannys would they perform even worse than they already do?

 

Cowboy, where did you order a bag of rivets for $1.25? I went to my local dealer a week ago and he wanted $1.50 a piece for them! Is there somewhere online to order them from?

 

girthyguy,

If I'm wrong about the Peak HP being better off at higher rpms, then why does just about every CVT Equipt ATV have there peak power after 5500 RPMs?? IF it's better to keep the peak power lower in the RPM range then why aren't the Manufactures lowering the rpms at which the peak power is being made??

I've already proven that a CVT will lose more power(percentage wise) before it gets to the rear wheels than a manual would. Just go to Dynojet and look at the LT500F Quadrunner's run vs the automatic Quadmaster's run. The difference is how SMOOTH the power is. With an auto you never have to let off on the power like you would on the manual cause you have to shift. Thats why it wins in the drag races.

 

GspMan:
Hey, just to make sure we're talking about the same rivets-they're the plastic ones that hold the fenders together and such. I have ripped off the left rear mud flap a couple times running over small trees, the plastic rivets give out so the fenders don't break. Anyway, my dealer gave me a bag of either 20, or 25-can't remember how many exactly in the package, for something like $1.25 or so. It might have been $1.50, but was definately under $2.00 for sure for the bag of 20 or 25. I was surprised at how cheap they were. He gives me all parts and such for cost, so is it possible there is that much of a markup on them??? Man, $1.50 a piece sounds way high, I don't know. Isn't there like 5-7 of them on the mud flap alone? That would be about $8.00 after tax or so just to fix one flap!

I'm sorry, don't know of any aftermarket ones available. Are we talking about the same ones? The ones down by the floorboards are different, a little heavier duty I think, and might be a little more money?

Best of luck,

Mike

 

cowboy,
Yes, I am talking about the plastic ones for the rear mudflaps. The dealer I went to is very expensive on everything, including the atv's. I'll have to call around and see if I can find them cheaper from another dealer. We are lucky in St. Louis, there are probably 5 or six dealers within 40 miles.
Thanks for the info!

 

Good point. With the auto, there is no shift hesitation and no momentum loss. They are setup for mudding better than a manual as long as the rider comes at whatever in the right range. Low range on an auto is excellent for mudding.

 

Under 7500rpm the power loss isnt that noticable that why you see allot of fourwheelers with it. I know some will say, that some sleds rev to 9500+ rpms. But Has any one ever seen a sled dynoed at the track its horrible. Your lucky on sled if you even get a third of the power from crank to the track. I know this is getting away from the utility quad segment BUt most performance four stroke spin allot more rpms Look at the Sport bikes that are out today, 12000-15000rpm redlines. On a utlity quad belt system is great, they dont turn that many r's to worry about the power loss. But for those of you saying the belt system is so much better then shifting, it is and it isnt. On an auto your not get that maximum performance from your engine. Unless you tune you clutches to get them right on to your engine torque curve, they will be out performed a by a manuel with a good rider. See The clutching from the factory is usually way off, with an auto. Any sled head here will agree with me with that one.
matty