Have no brakes
#1
My problem is this I have a 2002 arctic cat 550i. Low miles worked great till a couple of years ago started having brake problems. Started checking it out and found rear caliper leaking around piston. Got the kit cleaned it up and repaired. Seamed soft after bleeding it several times but had some brakes and wanted to ride so let them go. Year ago they where getting softer so tried bleeding again no help. Checked for leaks non found. A friend suggested that could be the master cylinder so replaced re bleed again not much help. So now my son want to use it prepping it so he could use it found it to have no brakes. Ran thru the whole thing again found no problems bleed fine even took master cylinder off and bench tested seem to work fine. But won't pump up. So bit the bullet and bought 3 new calipers installed used a mityvac to bleed out air have little pressure but not rock hard. Gave up called 3 different repair shops around my area they say arctic cat brake systems are junk and wouldn't even try to repair cause they say can't be done. So I need help or is this true and I should just get rid of it.
thank for any advice given
thank for any advice given
#2
I've got 2011 AC 550 TRV and my brakes work great. And, I ride with many other AC brand ATVs and their brakes seem to work great as well.
Last spring (before Covid-19 lock downs), I did my own brake job. Used You-Tube videos to teach myself how others did their own AC brakes. And, read the below comments of each video to learn more traps / tips as well. For example video:
For me:
- I used my electric 4" sander using 80 grit paper and sanded down both sides of the disc's contact surface. Where sanding pad couldn't reach contact surface, I used wire brushed these areas as well. IMO, the spinning disc surface needs brake fluid cleaning afterwards as well. Many people forget these steps.
- For Pads, I used Ceramic Material Pads. Read too many reviews of semi-metallic pads. Thus, use Ceramic and clean their surface with brake fluid as well.
When bleeding the brake fluid, recommend using 2 man bleed method. I never have good results using 1 man method.
Hope these ideas help.
Last spring (before Covid-19 lock downs), I did my own brake job. Used You-Tube videos to teach myself how others did their own AC brakes. And, read the below comments of each video to learn more traps / tips as well. For example video:
For me:
- I used my electric 4" sander using 80 grit paper and sanded down both sides of the disc's contact surface. Where sanding pad couldn't reach contact surface, I used wire brushed these areas as well. IMO, the spinning disc surface needs brake fluid cleaning afterwards as well. Many people forget these steps.
- For Pads, I used Ceramic Material Pads. Read too many reviews of semi-metallic pads. Thus, use Ceramic and clean their surface with brake fluid as well.
When bleeding the brake fluid, recommend using 2 man bleed method. I never have good results using 1 man method.
Hope these ideas help.
#3
Thanks for the idea I didn't think of sanding the pads and rotors. I tried the two person method with just me and a large rubber band. I'll try again with a person this time. Someone at one of the repair shops told me to bleed the banjo connections also even though I used the mityvac air still remains in them joints and has to be removed manually. So since I'll have the wheels off again I'll rough them up and see if that helps.
#4
Iv always had luck just gravity bleeding. i usually work the fronts first let them drip fill the res, go for a quick rip and repeat, then i will do the same for the rear not sure if yours is the same as mine with a resoviour under the seat for the foot pedal? You have to bleed the lines leading to that as well as the rear... when i have done all that on the final bleed ill get a helping hand and bleed one more time
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