I still use the stock blue air filter that came with my 2000 Cat. Why get something else when this is just fine on an ummodded machine. I clean it about every 3-4 tanks of gas. I use Bel-Ray foam filter oil. I have had some people tell me "just use some 30 weight oil" others say "You what? I just clean it and put it in dry". I just want to know, which way is better? Will any of these scenarios effect the longevity of the filters life?

Any and all comments are appreciated.

 

Good question. I usually clean mine with every oil change (300 miles), and more often when in really dusty conditions. As for your questions about the oil, I've also wondered what others are doing. My dealer said just clean it in warm water-no hard detergents, and not to oil it. I know the filter works great at keeping the air clean coming in, as it's always spotless on the inside air ducts, but how about air flow? Does it provide high enough flow rates? How about with different jet sizes-is the stock enough, or should a higher flow rate, such as a K&N be used? I'm a little leary about using an aftermarket filter such as the K&N as they might let in too much of the really fine particle dust.

My new jets will be here on Tuesday so I want to make sure my filter is well cleaned before running the break in test. Any additional thoughts as to if the stock blue foam produces high enough flow rates to compensate for the new jet-or should I look into an aftermarket?

Thanks for the thoughts,

Mike

 

Read your owners manual, I'm betting that it recomends you oil them. I have a 1999 models(which a differnt fitler) but in the 2001 accesory catalog there is Arctic Cat Foam Filter oil, so I'm betting that they recomend you oil it. If you don't oil it you are letting ALOT more dust and grit get by and threw the filter. So I would recomend useing foam filter oil on your filters.

 

Boner is right, the blue foam filter is supposed to be oiled. The white filter on the 98 & 99 just gets washed out. I have a uni filter also and what I do is keep a cleaned & oiled filter in a zip lock bag and when I need to change it I always have a clean and oiled filter ready to go. The uni filter is a oiled foam filter also. The K&N filter will let water pass trough it where a oiled foam filter resists water, the oil on them is so thick and sticky it is even hard to wash it out. I would rather have a little more protection than flow more air. I've had a K&N before in a polaris and you can tell a real differenc in the power when it is clean. I also have one in my truck. I change mine about every 100 or so miles depending on if I have been doing a lot of dusty riding or not, a little longer if it has been raining a lot.

 

The owners manual calls for oil on the foam filter. As far as the K&N filter goes it is my understanding that this is better than the stock filter as far as capturing dirt and dust goes. The reason they flow better is not less filtration but rather a larger surface area. I have been using one on mine and even though it is now dry and dusty on the trail there is no visible sign anywhere in the airbox or on the inside of the filter of dust or anything. I was told a pre-filter is a good idea as it will cut down the need of cleaning the K&N as often. The K&N can be cleaned and re-used but I think the number of times is about 25, the pre-filter will extend the time between cleanings and therefore extend the usable life of the filter. As far as performance gains go you can feel the differance. The top end suffers a little as I think it is a little lean, the midrange and bottom improve. I have been playing around with the needle in the carb but nothing works for all throttle positions. By moving to the next leaner position on the clip the midrange is awesome but the bike tops out at 48MPH by going one setting richer on the needle the midrange and bottom suck but top end goes to 55MPH easy on the flat. I guess thats why the dynojet kits work so well as they match the needle shape and seat to the engine for a gain across the full range of throttle positions. My next step will be to try a different needle diameter to see if this will help.

Cheers Jim

 

I 'm kinda lost here, but K&N filters are also supposed to be oiled to be effective to my knowledge. I also think that they are nondisposable and are to be cleaned with K&N's own cleaning kit and recharged with K&N's Recharger kit. I also believe they have a 1 million mile warranty, which you are surely never gonna reach on an ATV.

 

Boner-
Yeah, that's exactly the way it was with the one I had on my pickup. I had it for several years before I ended up swapping engines. After the 5th engine I put in it, we got to messing with the airfilter, it turned out that the K&N was not breathing right-it was suffocating the engine. We pulled it off, put a standard fram on, idle increased by nearly 300 rpm's! I even tried having the local dealer do a thorough cleaning for me on it, it still didn't help. So, I've been a little leary of putting one on my 'Cat. The kit I had came with the filter, a cleaning solvent stuff, as well as the oil. You had to wash it from the inside out with a slow flow of water, so as to dislodge any foreign material stuck between the pleates, yet not hard enough to disturb the material. After that, you had to liberally soak the thing with the solvent, when that was dry, spray it with the oil-which just so happened to be died red so you'd know you got it all good.

Anyway, I don't know if I just had a bad filter for my truck or what, but I wasn't impressed, and have not wanted to have to go that route with the 'Cat and the new jets. I'll probably end up picking up a new stock 'Cat filter to have on-hand ready to go like somebody else mentioned earlier with the cleaning/drying of the foam.

Best of luck,

Mike

 

I can't believe you guys wait so long between cleanings. I clean mine after every ride. Of course a lot of my riding is done in groups kicking up dust and dirt. You should always clean and oil your foam type filters. It is the oil that collects the small fine dirt/dust. The best stuff I have found is the UNI filter cleaner and foam filter oil. The cleaner is just spray on let it set for 3 minutes and then rinse and let it dry. The foam filter oil is you just puts some on and work it in and wipe off the excess.
I would only recommened using a foam filter cleaner and some of the solvents can eat the foam or cause it to seperate from the rubber ends.
The K&N filters are good filters you just have to take care of them. I prefer the dual stage filters from Twin Air or UNI.
A fourstroke machine runs on the flow of Air and fuel. The more you can get fed through the more power you are going to make. to get the most effect you should upgrade both at the same time. Your stock air filter is a good 2 stage foam filter. If you are not going to upgrade to aftermarket pipes there really is no need to upgrade the filter.
A lot of machines come with a cheap paper or single stage filter in these cases I would recommend upgrading the filter to either the K&N or dual stage foams.

 

Somebody mentioned using regular 30wt. oil. I gotta agree with Taylor on this from previous experience with my bikes and other smaller engines that have foam filters. Do not use regular oil some foam filters will practically dissolve after a short time period.

 

OK, stupid question here -what is a two-stage foam filter? What is a single stage? I can see how the normal paper would be single stage, but confused as to the foam???

Thanks,

Mike[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]