Sorry for the dumb question here-some of you may remember a while back I had a question about brakes, and loosing their stopping ability. I've been either too busy (or too lazy) to actually look further into it. Well, they're too the point now that the park brake will not hold on any type of incline, so I'm thinking bleeding the lines would be a good place to start. I've bled out truck brakes many times, but was curious to the "proper procedure" to bleeding quad brakes. I assume to start at the rear brake first (furthest from the m.c.), then the rear linked to the front brakes, then the right front, finishing with left front. Can I simply set the parking brake, then loosen the drain plug, then tighten as soon as it stops leaking, or do I really need somebody to hold the lever-like you do in a truck, having somebody hold the pedal to the floor?

Also, about where are the drain plugs located? I looked real quickly once and didn't see them, so I'm assuming I need to remove the tires? (damn I sound lazy don't I! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]) Sorry, just looking for the fastest way to do this. Deer season opens next weekend, the 13th, so I want to fix this little issue before then, just in case I get lucky and get a buck! The terrain is pretty steep, and I'd hate to try and load a buck on the rack without a good holding parking brake.

Thanks Again for any and all info,

Mike

 

Hi Cowboy, your on the right track, you do have to pull your wheels (3) to get to the bleeds. Now go to the master cylinder and gently pull the piston till it stops then open the bleeds one at a time back to front as you discribed. The fluid will drain out & push out any air bubbles, just make sure you keep the master cylinder full and use dot 4 fluid.


BTW make sure you check the brake pads, if they are bad replace them with a good set of aftermarket HP pads, DP makes a good pad for AC.

I would like to thank you for the spring spacer idea I recently installed spacers on my wifes 500 auto and she is much happier with the way the bike handles. I found a spacer that works like it was made just for this application, the bushing that comes in a clutch kit for a GM manual trans. fits perfectly between the upper eye of the shock and the spring plate and fits in a recess in the upper plate, this bushing is .75" tall but can be cut down easily.







[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

CaTTrax,

Who is DP and how can I get in touch with them? Thanks

Dakota R/T

 

CaTTrax-
Thanks a bunch for the help! I guess I wasn't too far off then in the procedure, so I'll just go ahead and do like you said-need to go get some fluid first though. Glad the spacer idea worked out for you-always nice to hear!

Also, I'm with Dakotart-who is DP, where to find??? Are they cheaper than standard AC pads, or better-last longer???

Anyway, Thanks Again for the help, much appreciated!

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

Mike you have the Auto and I believe the foot brake for the rear is Dot 4. Don't mix DOT 3 with it or you will have nothing but problems from now till forever. You can change a 3 over to a 4 , but not the other way around. They do not mix either. Just a word of warning.

 

Minehunter-
Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to get the DOT 4-don't want to screw anything up, that's for damn sure!

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

Hey mike!
I dont want to discourage you, maybe just save you some time and effort. Unless you have messed with them, or the master cylinder has been low on fluid, there really is no reason that there should be any air in your brake system. The procedure for bleeding is as you describe. You can give it a try, but I dont think that is your problem. Another thought, check your brake lever to make sure it is returning fully when you release it. If it is not, it will cause you to lose part of the stroke of the piston in the master cylinder and not be able to fully apply the brake as designed. Is the brake handle still firm? If so, forget bleeding and look more at the pads and rotor. Have they reached the service limit? Do either of them appear to be glazed? If this is the case then replacement of those items would solve your problem. I have had some success in restoring brake efficiency by scuffing up both the pads and the rotor with sand paper but it is usually only a temporary fix at best.
Good luck Mike and let us know what you find,
and good luck on the HUNT!!!!!!!

Trailboss450

 

The most effective thing I have found so far is to gravity bleed them. Take off the fluid reservoir cap and bleed out the brakes the same as you regularly would. Make sure the fluid thing is full. After you get all the air out, tighten up those bleeder valves and pump the brake lever all the way in. Tie it off with a zip tie or bunjee or something, and then just leave it that way overnight. The next day when you take the brake lever back out, it should be good and tight again. This is the way the mechanic at my dealer always told me to do it. Seemed to work pretty good.

 

I have had problems bleeding the brakes with the "outlaw" calipers. I can never get all the air out. So I had my dealer call cat and they said the outlaw calipers have no cross over pipe like the Wilwood's (which are on 99 and older cat's) And that means with out taking the caliper off and laying it on it's side so the bleeder is up you can only get the air out of one side.
So here is how the Cat guys say to do the outlaw calipers. They want you to start with the front left (closest to the mc) pull the caliper off put a peice of steel between the pads about as thick as the rotor lay the caliper on it's side with bleeder facing up, tap on it so air bubbles will come to top and bleed as normal...Bill

 

Cowboy, to do a 'proper' bleeding, you should have a buddy squeeze the lever. The parking brake method you described doesn't push out much air per squeeze, so it will take longer. If you have nobody around, there are ways to make a substitute 'buddy'.
Get a couple of bungee cords. Use one to hold the handlebar straight, and the other hook to the brake lever, and to something else, putting pressure on the lever. You can usually figure out a way to get it to squeeze the lever all the way back. It works better for me to hook a loop of clothesline over the brake handle, then the bungee cord to the other end of the loop, and the rear rack. This gives you even, steady pressure that will hold the lever back until you release it.
A brick (or two) on the rear foot pedal works good in a pinch, too, if you have hydraulic rear brakes.