Well don't I feel like a total ***. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]-very embarrassed with this one, hate to even admit what's up here. I was tearing into the 'Cat to bleed the brakes, then decided to just run down to the dealer with it to see if he maybe had some brake fluid I could borrow (have)-he's pretty good about that stuff. Anyway, we get to looking at it, I'm telling him the problems as he's wondering how I could have got the air in, with a little closer inspection with the tires off, I um.... well how should I put this.... I.... Well, basically, there's no pad left. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] So, problem solved, no bleeding necessary. He showed me what a new pad looks like for comparison, and I would say the pad thickness was about 1/4" or so brand new. My pads are maybe 1/16"???-very slim to say the least. That is why they won't hold-they're past the point that the fluid can't crimp them enough to hold. So, we start talking price. For three sets of pads (both fronts and the rear that is linked too the front), it will cost right around $32.00. This seems pretty cheap, so just how much are those aftermarket pads anyway, and will they last that much longer to make it worth my while? He didn't have three sets in stock, but ordered a bunch that will be here on tuesday, so I'll probably just pick up the stock pads for now, as they're here so quick, and $32 isn't exactly costing an arm and a leg-though I am broke as it is. Just curious for future reference. Overall, I think about 1,200 miles on the first set with very steep terrain and lots of mud and fine dust combined with the heavy weight up front and towing all the logs and other things I pull, I don't consider that all too bad, especially when I've heard of people replacing them at as few as 300 miles. A huge Thanks though to everybody for all the help, like I said, I feel like a total *** over this one! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

On a side note, he did have in the new '02 375 and the new TBX. I must say I am impressed! I didn't get to take either for a test ride, as they were buried in the showroom inside of a ton of other quads and sleds, but upon inspection, they looked great! I really like the new look actually. And, I love the new auto intake and exhaust-way up high-by the gas tank up top, and by the rear brake light in the back. I really don't think water will be a problem with this new tranny design at all. I like the new shift lever on the left side-that is a nice change, and seemed to shift easier than mine does. The floorboards seem to be larger/wider too, which is nice as well, and the seat was an improvement as well-though like others have mentioned, what the hell were they thinking with that seat latch??? The TBX box is pretty cool-bigger than I imagined it would be, and made of a very tough, durable plastic. It didn't appear to be too big though to handle the trails-looks like a good all around unit. Both were ACT models, and while they do look to have more clearance than my dad's stock machine, I did not have a tape on me, so I couldn't take any actual measurements. If I were in the market, there would definately be a new AC 500 in my garage!

Anyway, Thanks again for all the help, sorry to be such a confused nit wit here lately. Must have rocks in my head or something. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

Though I'm not familiar w/ these brakes here is the ONLY way to bleed a normal brake.
Break the seal on the master cyliner, don't remove the cap.
Pull the lever to the grip and wrap a small bungee around lever and grip.
Let it sit over night.
Next day release bungee, pump lever about 20 times.
Pull lever to grip and wrap bungee around it again.
Come home from work release bungee and tighten up rezzy cap.
DONE!
You are bleeding the brakes in reverse w/ no mess and NO waste of fliud.
Will not work if you are draining completely and starting w/ no fluid in lines.
For a NORMAL rear brake wedge a hammer between the brake pedal and frame and repeat above steps...

 

Dakotart: DP is a brake pad & rotor Co. they make sintered metal pads with a GG rating the part number for all AC's (except 96 & 97 Barcats) is DP-914 retail is 32.95 and are available from any Parts Unlimited dealer there should be other catalogs that sell them as well. The sintered metal pads will last much longer than stock pads in all types of riding conditions. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Glad you found the problem Mike. I didnt think it sounded like a bleeding problem the way you explained it. One rule I have always found to save time and effort?....always check the obvious first.
And now??? I am outta here! And you know where I will be for 7 days
SEE YA!

 

Trailboss-
Yeah yeah yeah, just had to rub it in now didn't ya! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Have a safe trip, and hope it all goes well, -I want pictures when ya get back! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Cowboy, were your brakes losing pressure as well as the grip? Since I took mine to the dealer for a brake line replacement, the brake does not keep pressure for any period of time. I have to pump the handle several times to get any real stopping power, but then if I don't use them for a while, I can pull the hand brake until it hits the grip. The dealer checked the pads while repairing the lines, he said they were fine. I wonder if mine got some air in them while they were working on the brakes, or if the master cylinder went bad? I have the clear brake resevoir on my 2000 auto. Is that the one that had the problems, or was it the black one?

Thanks for any replies!

Dan

 

First the black one was the one that had some problems.Was it you that had to have the brake line replaced due to someone riding your quad with the brake on? If so when the brake fluid begin to get hot the excessive pressure resulting "might" have damaged your master cylinder. Air in the lines is usually a sponging feeling pedal/handle and this is probably what you are describing. Get some DOT 4 brake fluid and try bleeding. Good Luck Shane