SNorkle for My Cat
#1
Cant seem to figure this 500i out
I need so help making a snorkle for my Cat. Routing ,restrictor plates etc.
I think 500i Cat has one Can you give me intructions on making one that will work on my bike.
Its a 03 500i.
Thnaks
I need so help making a snorkle for my Cat. Routing ,restrictor plates etc.
I think 500i Cat has one Can you give me intructions on making one that will work on my bike.
Its a 03 500i.
Thnaks
#3
CatKrazy--it's pretty easy, except for the airbox
I have the same wheeler. I used 2" PVC sch40. All parts are 2"
1 - 10ft stick of 2" PVC
3 - 90's
1 - 90 with male threads on one end
3 - 45's
1- foam plumbing seal
1 - electrical nut
Remove airbox. Cut a hole in the left side of the airbox big enough to fit the threaded part of the 90 into it. It should be snug. Try a holesaw (I think it's about 2 1/4"). Run the threaded 90 into airbox. It's a tough fit to get out of the way of the filter. So measure everything before you start cutting. Point the open end (non threaded) straight forward. Connect about 6" of pipe. Place a 45 pointing out (away from engine) and up a little. About 4" pipe. Another 45 facing forward and up. Up over the reverse shifter and on the rack and so on.
I have built several different snorkels and this one was easier than some of the others. You should also run a carb vent hose up the snorkel to the top. Make sure you block off the drain plug on the bottom of the carb. It has a opening that goes directly into the float bowl. Mine kept dying in the water even with the snokel on.
If you need more specifics, I can probably take some exact measurements tommorrow.
I have the same wheeler. I used 2" PVC sch40. All parts are 2"
1 - 10ft stick of 2" PVC
3 - 90's
1 - 90 with male threads on one end
3 - 45's
1- foam plumbing seal
1 - electrical nut
Remove airbox. Cut a hole in the left side of the airbox big enough to fit the threaded part of the 90 into it. It should be snug. Try a holesaw (I think it's about 2 1/4"). Run the threaded 90 into airbox. It's a tough fit to get out of the way of the filter. So measure everything before you start cutting. Point the open end (non threaded) straight forward. Connect about 6" of pipe. Place a 45 pointing out (away from engine) and up a little. About 4" pipe. Another 45 facing forward and up. Up over the reverse shifter and on the rack and so on.
I have built several different snorkels and this one was easier than some of the others. You should also run a carb vent hose up the snorkel to the top. Make sure you block off the drain plug on the bottom of the carb. It has a opening that goes directly into the float bowl. Mine kept dying in the water even with the snokel on.
If you need more specifics, I can probably take some exact measurements tommorrow.
#5
I didn't have to rejet, seems to be running fine. You do have to block off the original snorkel. I cut a piece of plastic about the size of the opening and siliconed it on. All of the air is coming through the snorkel on the front rack.
Note: When running a snorkel you will NOT have the throttle response of stock. The air has to come from the end of the pipe and down into the engine. You have to learn to roll the throttle on a little slower instead of just hammering down real quick. It takes about 5 min to get used to. It's not much to giveup to keep from drowning out and messing up the engine.
It also allows you to get into deep holes and just TEAR THEM UP!!. You don't have to worry about how deep they are.
Note: When running a snorkel you will NOT have the throttle response of stock. The air has to come from the end of the pipe and down into the engine. You have to learn to roll the throttle on a little slower instead of just hammering down real quick. It takes about 5 min to get used to. It's not much to giveup to keep from drowning out and messing up the engine.
It also allows you to get into deep holes and just TEAR THEM UP!!. You don't have to worry about how deep they are.
#7
Sorry Max--I don't have a digital camera or a scanner. My computer is a 133HZ 28MB--I tried to get a scanner a while back and they wouldn't run on this old of a comput.
It is really pretty easy. With PVC you can test fit and put everything together before you glue it.
Let me know if I can help any other way.
PS--Blew the vamp sky high--too much psi
It is really pretty easy. With PVC you can test fit and put everything together before you glue it.
Let me know if I can help any other way.
PS--Blew the vamp sky high--too much psi
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#9
When you snorkel it out make sure you run a line for the carb vent hose and block off the float bowl drain. The stock vent hose is coming out of the top left side of the carb and wraps around by the stock snorkel. Go to the Autoparts store and get a piece of vaccum hose the same inside diam. size (get about 6ft) $5.00. Run it up to the top of the snorkel and then face it down. Make sure it doesn't have any kinks. While at the parts store get a vaccum cap blockoff. I bought an assortment pack for about $2.00. There is a small nipple on the bottom of the float bowl that is open to the carb. The float bowl drain screw does not affect this drain it is open all the time. I argued with someone on the trail for half an hour about it and when I got home he was right. If you get carb deep in water for very long the motor will die.
I also snorkel'd my exhaust. I like to be able to go through deep water at a snail's pace and feel my way through. That way if it gets too deep or you have to float across it's not a problem. Muffler shop can do it for about $15.00
I also snorkel'd my exhaust. I like to be able to go through deep water at a snail's pace and feel my way through. That way if it gets too deep or you have to float across it's not a problem. Muffler shop can do it for about $15.00
#10
I just remembered, run a large bolt or something in the drain plug in the bottom of the airbox. It's supposed to be a one way vent but it's not. The airbox lid seal also sucks. I use silicone and make a big thick gasket. The bad part is use have to clean it out and reapply every time u clean out the airfilter.
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