As in Hobart mig welder to the spider gears. Steering is not bad, alignment and tire pressure is the key. You need to toe the tires out about 1/4 inch and it is not hard to turn unless you are stopped, as soon as you start to move it get easy. Not any harder than a detroit locker while moving. When in tight trails is easier to turn when locked in 4wd, 2wd does not help. I got it up to 40mph and it handled great. I rode in tight trails and had it up to the racks in deep mud. To put it lightly, in the mud its an unstoppable beast.

I am very happy with the way it handles, I actually expected it to be harder to steer.

If you ride on a lot of trails and just go through occasional mud, its not for you. But if you are in competition with others and want a machine no one can follow its a must have.

 

so did you do it yourself. did you have to do anything to the internals that was welded allready to get to the spider gears

 

The differential is welded on each end so you can't remove the spider gears, but there is an opening on each side so oil can get in to lube spider gears. You can easily get to them with a mig welder. I have welded the spider gears in dana 60s for mud trucks before, this was no different.

 

You gave up on the "rear diff to the front" option, did ya ODB? LOL! Well.....the "Lincoln locker" is a proven method......'course, it's not reversible.

 

Dave -I rode a Foreman with the Howie Locker after hearing his compliments on it. I could not see myself ever having use for the OEM differential under my riding conditions. Those spider gears were just staring at me on the bench for 2 days just begging to be welded. So I went the cheap but irreversable route. I do not regret my choice.

 

go luck keep us posted on how it holds up (cv wise that is)

 

is this something that could be done without pulling out the diff. (can you do this with everthing intact)

 

Maximus- The front diff has to be removed from the frame to get to all of the bolts on the housing. It is not hard to remove.

1 Remove both front shocks and the tie rod ends from the steering shaft.

2 Remove the 3 upper and lower A-arm bolts from the right side. Move the A-arm assembly aside and do not remove the brake line. Pull out the axle.

3 Remove the spindle from the left A-arm and pull out the axle.

4 Remove the 2 bolts going through the diff and the c-clip holding the 2 and 4wd shifter.

5 Remove the 4 star head bolts from the skid plate under the winch and slide the diff forward untill it slips out of the drive shaft splines. Shove it back and pull it out of the right side with the removed a-arms.

When the diff is on the bench just remove the 8 star bolts from cover and the carrier comes right out. Piece of cake.

 

Let me ask you something

Is there enough room to put some sort of homemade block or bolt in it to lock it up.
Is there enough room to tap into the internal housing with a drill and tap it for a bolt that you can use to lock up the gears with?

Let me know becuase if you can this can easily be removed for warranty work if you need to take it to the shop for something

I need to know how the front diff is set up, campare it with another bikes front diff "one like it"

 

IS there a diagrahm of the front DIff anywhere on the web? or if anyone has one please email it to me or fax it..thanks