I have a 1983 honda 200 atc and i have had it for about 2 years and its treated me good. I just put some new tires on it and stuff. But just the other week i was driving it and it died and wouldnt start again so i took the cdi assembly apart and the cam chain was slipping around and it had come un timied so i timmed it agian and it would start. And just for the heck of it i took of one of the valve caps and there was metal shavings every where and it was dry of oil and the engine had oil in it. i had just changed it a week before this happend. so i took the top end apart replaced every thing in it and it runs now but oil still isnt getting up in the head by the valves what could be the problem any suggestions would be great!!!!!!!!!!??????????????

 

when you take off the right crankcase cover the is a round cover with 3 phillips screws, its the oil rotor, the manuals say that the oil rotor cover should be removed every time the oil is changed and the sludge removed.

although i totally restored my 82 200x this past winter and checked the oil rotor for the first time EVER
and there wasn't hardly anything in there, so i am not sure what to tell you.

i live in ladysmith just down the road and have a manual you can use that covers all 185 and 200 hondas
from 1980-1985 if you want to use it.

if you wanna use it email my at jeffvacho1971@hotmail.com

 

actually i think there are bolts instead of phillips screws holding your oil rotor cover on, also how far did you tear it apart? there is an o-ring that goes around the right rear dowel pin on top of the cylinder that has to be there.

also if there was too much liquid gasket by the oil passage on the right side of the cylinder head it might have gotten into the oil passage when you put the cover on and is blocking the passage.

????

 

Hey haywood, what size jets are you runnin in that 200X?

 

38 slow jet and 115 main with the clip on the needle in the 4th slot from the bottom if I remember correctly,can't remember where the idle mixture screw is set at for sure. I could check but it was a bitch to get set-up with no baseline to start with. I had a 40/120 combo in for break-in so it would be rich, but went through alot of plugs and jets to get it adjusted, but seeing as I spent about $2000 for the ground up rebuild I guess extra plugs and jet money was a big deal..lol Beside the smell of racing fuel in the neighborhood was kinda nice during the 'rich' break in.

 

i only tore it aprt down to the jug. Just the top end evry thing was fried the cam was basically melted off it was that bad. and what does that rubber ring do and if its not in there what will happen? I did put it in there tho!

 

and your talking the case by the oil plug right? do i have to pull the engine out to do this or not?


thanks alot!

 

OPPS sorry bout that i ment by the DIP STICK?

 

Haywood- Do you think that a 110 jet for my X is to lean?? (Ported.polished, shaved head, supertrapp pipe, and k+n filter??

 

big red

I think the right cover can be removed with the engine in the frame, as far as the o-ring on the cylinder stud goes I know it has to be there due to the fact the oil is pumped to the cylinder head by way of the cylinder head bolt holes. There is also a oil plug which is a small rubber plug that is on the TOP RIGHT side of the cylinder head which is held in its hole by the cylinder head cover, it is very easily lost during disassembly.....it is located to the right of the camshaft where the cover sits on the head. Do you remember seeing it?

The only other thing could be the oil pump itself has excessive wear and is pumping little or nothing. Its located also under the right crankcase cover behind the oil rotor.

As before if you wanna borrow my manual and are gonna be in Ladysmith I'll give you my address so you can pick it up, you're more than welcome to use it.