anybody know any damn thing about this damn cdi crap? i got a 185s and somtimes it gets fire but somtimes it dosent .ive searched all through the forums for info but noboys seems to know very much about the cdi system.. well any info will be appreciated. sincerley having hell

 

Lots more smarter than me..but ill try.
Hows the stator...rusty?
Have you checked the out put from the stator when theres no spark?
Usually the cdi will fail, and youll never see another spark, so id say if it comes and goes, the cdi is probably good.

 

This is a post from awhile back I typed out for a guy.....and I am a pretty slow at typing so I cut and pasted it [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]...This should help...




Wed September 21, 2005 12:20 PM



OK...no spark for a 84 200s....(big breath)
1. Spark plug..Use a "known" good plug. NGK DR8ES-L gapped to .024-.028in
2. Plug wire.. Remove the entire plug wire from the engine/coil...Ohm out the plug wire and plug boot together Then wiggle the wire while you Ohm it. If at any time it reads "open"...repair it or replace.(if good put it back on the coil)
3. Coil..ohmmeter set on RX1..
........A. From the wire plug on the coil to the mounting flange...0.2-0.4
........b. From plug boot to the mounting flange...3-5K
........C. Ohm from the mounting flange to a bare spot on the frame. If it doesnt Ohm out....clean the mounting area on the coil/frame
........D. Inspect the spade wire connection on the coil to make sure it is clean and tight.
4. Pulse Generator.. Under the cover marked cdi on the left upper of the engine
........A. turn the engine over and make sure the rotor spins with the engine
........B. Disconnect the wires for the pulse generator and Ohm them (RX1)..value is 20-30
........C. inspect the rotor pickup end (steel part), if it is dirty clean it with 0000 steel wool.
5. Kill swich.. Make sure it is in the "run" position. Remove the headlight and find the 2 wires for the kill switch. (green and black) they should Ohm out, wiggle all the wires to make sure it doesnt change; then put the switch to off and it should Ohm open.
6. Alternator (stator). Unplug the wires.. Ohm the black (one going into the stator) wire to a good ground (wiggle the wire to make sure it doesnt change....It should have some resistance if it is open...you have a broke wire. Do the same thing to the green wire. Pay close attention to where the wires go into the cover. I have seen a bunch that had broke wires going into the cover.
6. cdi unit.
...........Hold the cdi in your hand; looking into the plug; have the plug on the left.......there are 2 rows of 3 pins....top row from the left to right are 1-IGN 2-SW 3-EXT second row left to right.....4-PC 5-E1 6-E2
Like this
.......[ign][sw][ext]
.......[pc ][e1][e2] While you are looking at it
Here are the test points

Positive test lead - negative test lead- value
SW-EXT-O.1-20K
SW-PC-0.5-200K
SW-E1-0.2-60K
SW-E2-0.2-60K
SW-IGN-infinity
EXT-SW-infinity
EXT-PC-0.5-100K
EXT-E1-0.1-2.0K
EXT-E2-0.1-2.0K
EXT-IGN-infinity
PC - ALL PINS- infinity
E1-SW-infinity
E1-EXT-infinity
E1-PC-1to5K
E1-IGN-infinity
E2-SW-infinity
E2-EXT-infinity
E2-PC- 1to5K
E2-IGN-infinity
IGN-SW-infinity
IGN-EXT-infinity
IGN-PC-infinity
IGN-E1-infinity
IGN-E2-infinity

If all this stuff checks out ok....You will have to start Ohm-ing out wires in the harness itself.
That is the best answer I can give to check for a "no spark" condition...... Not one part of this was cut or pasted and my hands are tired now! Good luck. MIKE-H

 

Awesome info as usual Mike.

Yeah, I wouldnt have re-typed again a year later either. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]