Usually up on the front of the bike where the forks are there should be a plate with all the info on it...if its not there try looking underneath the bike, not sure which side, but there is a plate on it with all the info....I have a 1984 110, and the # plate with the year was underneath the bike, on either side of the case..There pretty simple bikes to work on...Sitting alot the carbs get gummed up, kind of a pain to get off, but if you do it a few times you get the idea..Dirt wheels mag has some adds that sell parts for those bikes, most of them are junk yards that buy them for parts...you can put a different shock set up on it...I have a 1985 250SX, with a 200x front end on it cause my neighbor rolled it...So anything is possible....Look on line I think they use 30wt oil, I get mine from nappa auto cause they oil they have does not have alot of detergent in it....

 

the best oil i think ive used awesome oil is castrol 20w-50 for high revving engines but don't mix oils worst thing to do all ways flush out most u can get before a new or different oil

 

When selecting an oil as stated above, do not buy oil intended for a car. It has friction modifiers in it and it will ruin your clutch by allowing it to slip and burn up.

The atc runs a wet clutch setup, so find an oil designed for it. Read the oil bottle carefully. You can buy cheapo oil from your auto store, but make sure its made for an atv and wet clutch. The weight of the oil can depend on where you live and how cold/hot it is, but 10w30 is a good all around weight.

Best of luck

 

this castrol is for atv i bought it from a atv shop they said it also works good for atc also

 

When I get home tonight, I'll pull out my Clymer book that tells what weight and type and I'll send you a message on it..Too heavy an oil and the clutch will go out...But I'll let you know what weight and type....I'll also look to see in the manual if it has any suggestions to make it start easier...usually its the carb...I was a two stroke and four stroke mech for awhile, the old saying is if its getting spark and getting gas something has to happen...lack of either one and you know the story......

++++++++++++++
Mike

 

I have a Clymer Honda manual , it says to use 30wt oil, the non energy conserving type. Your starting problem can be alot of different things. The choke not properly set, clogged float bowl or filter in gas tank...Theres one in the petcock, bad spark plug, sticking float valve in carb,weak CDI pulse generator, and poor compression....That should get ya started...I would start with a new plug....They run forever, I have an 85 250SX and all I do is change the oil in it....Good Luck

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: bkwyoming

I have a Clymer Honda manual , it says to use 30wt oil, the non energy conserving type. Your starting problem can be alot of different things. The choke not properly set, clogged float bowl or filter in gas tank...Theres one in the petcock, bad spark plug, sticking float valve in carb,weak CDI pulse generator, and poor compression....That should get ya started...I would start with a new plug....They run forever, I have an 85 250SX and all I do is change the oil in it....Good Luck</end quote></div>


What would happen if I had a weak CDI pulse generator??
-because I pull with the plug out & it only sparks 20% of the time or less... Engine wont run, gets fuel to the plug though
Thanks

 

i just got another one yesterday.
it is a 200 model.. (192cc engine)
its also a 1983 .. but it is a much different body style than the one that Timberwolf Posted above.
it has different style fenders, and has the tool storage in the back, behind the rack.
would this be the big red model?

what is the big red consist of that is different than the regular 200 ??
200 E ?? 200 S ?? whats the difference?

 

According to the manual the big red has the racks front and rear, with the different style plastic on it. Its more of a utility model. The 200 has different plastic with a smaller front tire. . The one in the picture is a big red. Where the front tube is where the forks go, should have your serial number and date stamp. I have a 1985 250SX. Its a kick & electric start, shaft drive, auto 5 speed clutch with reverse. It is geared real low and climbs mountains like a mule, better than my 4 wheeler, if you can hang on it will go up it the first time, its amazing..The big red has bigger rear tires to act like shocks in the back...I have had mine for 10 years and all I ever do is clean the carb once a year, thats it...Can't beat a Honda.....Here are the reasons for a weak spark: plug not good, weak ignition coil,weak CDI generator, Broken or shorted high tension lead to the spark plug, loose electrical connections, loose or broken ignition coil ground wire...As always, start with the simplist things first and work your way down the list...Take off the seat, and clean all connections with good electrical cleaner, you can even use a wire brush....you may find its just a dirty connection..Look for wires that go to the ignition and coil, battery etc...and clean them. Then check your spark again with a fresh plug. You should have a fat blue spark, If you pull slow, it will only spark once each rotation, pull fast and you should get a pretty good idea...You can always clean out the points area with electrical cleaner, or you points could be bad also, but that is rare......Good luck...

Mike

 

I've got two 84 200ES BIG REDs, hi-lo reverse elec start, shaft drive, 12V plug in under the left handle bar..2 different style racks though.......I'm gonna get some pics today.... & "great electrical troubleshooting steps bkwyoming"

Thanks