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Cornering Part 2 - The Anatomy of a Turn

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Old 01-06-2001, 01:14 AM
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I started the other post on the philosophy of a line to invite everyone to think about the mental approach to cornering. There are a few people who asked for tips on the physical basics of cornering. I will try to list some tips and would like to see some hints from anyone else who would like to respond.

I should put a disclaimer here - I am not an instructor or even a pro level rider and make no claim to being qualified to offer these tips. But I have been racing an ATV for over 8 years and I am a motocross fanatic that reads everything I can get my hands on about quad and bike racing.

To start, a corner could be broken down into four components for discussion purposes. In reality the turn needs to be made in one fluid movement, but the four parts of a turn are:
1) Choosing the line BEFORE actually reaching the corner.
2) Braking to slow down enough to negotiate the turn.
3) Actually making the turn.
4) Getting back on the gas to accelerate out of the corner.

Choosing the line was discussed on my post titled "the philosophy of a line". All I will say here is to plan your turn prior to actually making the corner. Plan ahead, look ahead, don't follow, and don't assume the line everyone is using is the best one. Anyone can go fast on the straight aways - it's the corner speed that helps separate the fast riders from the slow riders.

Braking - One key to going through a corner fast is to brake as late as possible. Following are some tips:
1) Use brake markers as a key for when to apply the brakes. Pick out a hay bale, sprinkler, or rock in each corner and use it as a marker.
2) When using your brakes use them hard, don't pussyfoot around.
3) Do the majority of your braking on the approach to the corner (while the quad is still going straight).
4) Depend on the front brake. The front brake does 70% of the braking. The rear brake is largely for directional control. If you want to stop in a hurry you have to use the front brake.
5) Master the brake slide. When you lock up the rear brake the rear of the quad can be forced to slide around the corner - completing two tasks at the same time. This is especially effective on hairpin turns.
6) Don't coast into the corner - this one is hard for me when I start to get tired. The more tired I get the more I tend to coast. This is why the brake markers will help.
7) Downshift while applying the brakes. After practicing you should learn what gear to be in after downshifting for the corner you are entering.

Making the turn -
1) After slowing enough to make the turn, slide your weight to the front and inside. The amount to lean or "hang off" depends on so many factors that you will have to learn this through practice. Narrow stock quads will obviously require more body english to keep from tipping.
2)Keep your elbows up! Good form requires your elbows to be held high to help absorb any jarring from your handle bars.
3) The weight shifts should be smooth and fluid and only practice will teach this.
4) If you are following a rut or small berm left by other bikes or quads, look ahead and turn the bars enough to follow the contour of the rut. This is important because if you don't turn enough then you will blow past the line and get into the soft roost left by everyone else. If you turn too much you will lose the advantage of the rut "holding" your line and won't be able to get back on the gas as soon.

Accelerating out of the turn -
1) Get back on the gas as soon as possible without overshooting the turn. You should already be in the proper gear to pull without bogging or revving to high. It took me forever to learn how to always count what gear I am in with every single shift, but now it helps because I know which gear to use for every turn on my local MX tracks.
2) Slide your weight back to help the rear tires get traction.
3) The method to apply the throttle will depend on your quad and motor. A 2-stroke will probably require some revs and slipping of the clutch to get the maximum drive. I ride a big 4-stroke and don't need to slip the clutch to keep from bogging.
4) When to apply the gas also needs to be learned. On a slippery turn you may have to wait until the turn is almost complete. With a berm or a big sweeper you might pour on the throttle at the very beginning of the turn.
5) Some riders may need to keep weight up front to keep the front end from coming up if there is enough traction. The front end of my 250R chassis NEVER comes up, the rear wheels will spin before that happens. But I think the 400EX tends to want to wheelie when pouring on the gas (especially with the stock swingarm).
6) At this point just keep the quad pointed in the direction you want to go and get ready for the next obstacle.

Hopefully this helps some beginners or anyone for that matter. I know it helps me to remind myself of the basics and proper form even though I am not a beginner.
 
  #2  
Old 01-06-2001, 09:34 AM
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Great Post! What these forums should be all about.

Raptor

Renthal bar,TCS Shocks,DuraBlue Axle,Lone Star A-Arms,Fastline Brake lines,DG Bumper,Big Gun Header, GYTR Silencer
 
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Old 01-06-2001, 11:20 AM
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great post
 
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Old 01-06-2001, 01:12 PM
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Great post. Another trick I have found is to keep the back wheels spinning through the corner This allows it to slide around easier without highsiding. Sometimes on really sharp turns I keep the front wheels locked up and the revs up to kick the rear end right around.
 
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Old 01-07-2001, 06:10 PM
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well I think you have the turning part down, now how about "Rythem - The Anatomy of a Rythem section". I have the most trouble through these. Great post anyway
 
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Old 01-08-2001, 12:38 AM
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Excellent post. I feel I have an advantage over the other racers after reading your post. Keep 'em coming. And maybe next you could write a post on whoops. Being able to haul through whoops seperates the men from the boys at my local mx track, and right now, I think I'm classified under 'one of the boys'.
 
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Old 01-08-2001, 05:15 PM
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This is what I come to see... Excellent post!
 
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