For you people that great deals on your ATV's
...how did you get the break on the price?

I own a '99 Blaster and am upgrading to a 2001 400EX. I am trying to arm myself with
any and all information for getting the price down as much as possible.

It helps that I am putting the whole thing on a low rate credit card, so there is no dealer
financing involved (which they should be happy with).

I got a quote from a dealers web site for $4999!!! I would love to pay that price, but that
dealer is a day away (or more) and haven't got a clue if they will ship, how much frieght
costs, or if it's in crate.

I need some ammo to take to the Honda dealer to fight for a low price.
Sock it to me guys! Thanks!

 

Wave some cash in their face. It shows them your serious. Use your low interest card to withdraw a cash advance before hand.

Also play it cool. don't let them know you're an impulse buyer. Keep a napkin handy to wipe away your drool.

 

You said a credit card what is your percentage that you woudld use to get it low enough just curious that's all cause i have a friend that is thinking of doing the same thing

Miles

 

First off most dealers like to finance your new toy. They make anywheres from $75.00 to 250.00
for each finance deal.
Also call all the dealers wihtin a days drive to get thier OTD price. Let them know on the phone
you are calling around to get the best price.
In some cases if you buy out of state you dont
have to pay sales tax. Im not sure if you have to
register yours in your state.
Dont shop on Saturdays most likely they will blow
you off cause they know another guy is right behind you. Best day is Tuesdays.
Good luck and have fun shopping.

 

Are you planning a trade, or are you buying outright, and selling or keeping you old ride? If trading, do everything you can to make your old bike look good without making it look like you did. For example, wash it really good, even all the nooks and crannies, then after it dries off good, drive it around some, but not in mud, so it looks clean, but not too clean. Sometimes people power wash everything down to hide minor oil leaks, and dealers know it. Get price quotes from several places and write them down. Go to the dealer saying I can get one for X dollars here. They should at least meet you half way or throw in some goodies. The most important thing is to not act like you have to drive it home that day. Don't say I gotta have this one, how much is it? Instead have the attitued that I am looking at a 400ex and found one for $4999, but since you are my local dealer, I thought I'd see if you would match it before I go there. If they say no, give them your phone number & go home. If they don't call in a day or two, call them & ask what they would do, maybe meet halfway. I got our car $1000 cheaper by leaving an offer, and going home. They called in 2 days that they would go along with me. I ran the risk of having someone else getting that particular one, but they always will make more.

 

Getting the best price is a frequent topic here and elsewhere. But what I've noticed is that most people expect to be handed a sweetheart deal without having to do any preparation or work on their end.

There is currently a thread in the Polaris Forum entitled, "Salesman Suck". If you want to know how NOT to get the best price, then just go in with an attitude like that.

Whether good, bad, or indifferent, the salesman is the guy you have to go through to close the deal. If you openly ridicule him, or convey disdain for him via your attitude, he will certainly have no incentive to negotiate with you. And if your "attitude" is sufficiently obnoxious, he may refuse to negotiate with you at all.

Don’t cut your nose off to spite your face. My advice is quite simple:

BE POLITE, BE PROFESSIONAL, BE PREPARED, BE PATIENT!

Be polite: no matter what you might think of your salesman's qualifications, his knowledge or his lineage, keep it to yourself. Those things are NOT the issue. Always maintain a pleasant demeanor, and graciously overlook any gaffes the salesman might make.

Be professional: There is no need to act like a punk, and try to "impress" the salesman with how much "big air" you can catch. He doesn't want to hear it. He is there to do a job. He may be passionate about it and do it well, or he may not be able to find his butt with both hands and a flashlight. It doesn't matter.

While a person with limited sales abilities may pose a problem you will have to work around, do not allow the salesman's lack of ability distract you from your purpose. You are at the dealership to get the best deal on the quad (or car or truck or bike or jet ski) of your dreams, so stay focused on that goal.

Be prepared: The dealership wants to sell product, that's how they stay in business. The salesman wants to close the deal, that's how he makes his living. The buyer (you) wants a new toy at the best possible price.

The best possible price on anything is usually the result of a cash deal, if financing is involved then the price inevitably goes up (Fact Of Life - the dealer passes the cost of financing on to the buyer). So, if you have managed to save the purchase price of your dream toy, and you walk in with cash in your pocket, you'll have a better chance of getting the best deal because you are not generating any additional work for the dealer.

But what if you don't have the cash? If you must finance your purchase, or if you must sell an existing toy before you purchase another, then line up your financing, prepare your existing toy for trade-in (a sure way not to get the best deal since the dealer must make a profit on reselling your trade), or sell your old toy, but do it before you ever set foot in the showroom. Involving the dealer in your personal financial life only wastes his time, and it works against you. The last thing a dealer wants to hear is, "Yeah, I'd really like to buy a Porcine 565 4x4, but I gotta sell my Dunehopper 250 first".

A prearranged bank loan generally carries a lower finance charge than a loan originated through a dealer. An added benefit is that the prearranged loan looks like cash to the dealer.

Be Patient: The impulse buyer who just has to have the product right now always pays the highest price. If you discipline yourself to wait for seasonal sales or promotions, or end-of-model-year closeouts, you can get much more for your money than at the beginning of the riding season. Also as another poster noted, just because the dealer is unwilling to accept your offer initially doesn't mean that upon reflection he won't. As long as you have made a fair and reasonable offer, then giving the dealer a few days to think about it can work in your favor. Besides which, it shows that you're a reasonable person, someone the dealer can work with.

If "your" salesman proves difficult to work with, then politely (see Rule # 1) ask to talk with the sales manager, or the owner. If you have done your best to adhere to Rules 1 & 2, and you still find the personnel at the dealership difficult to work with, you can drop them from consideration and you will have incurred the least amount of aggravation and wasted the least amount of your time.

Finally, have all doubts about the model you want and the features you want resolved before you begin negotiating the sale price (See Rule # 3). Telling the salesman that the Porcine 565 has less horsepower and displacement than the competition's Major Oinker 597 says you're not serious about the deal only encourages the salesman to suggest you visit the competition and buy an MO597 instead.

Shopping for a new toy can be a time consuming endeavor. The key to finding and purchasing the toy of your choice with the least amount of hassle is to make efficient use of your time. The four simple rules postulated above have always worked exceptionally well for me.

Army Man

 

Thank you to all who haave contributed to this post! I am sure it will help other people than me, too. I am currently selling my Blaster at a dealer ($2500 - they add $200 on top for themselves), once gone, the 400EX will be bought as a cash deal. I will be buying it tax free(!), and with a low interest credit card (same as cash to the dealer) or just take a cash advance from the same card. This way I will own it from the start and I (not the bank) will be in control of how much I pay, how often, ect. And on paper I will own it. Looks like the prices I have been getting are between $5300 and $5700, I am sure I will get it for $5300 including all fees, ect. Anyone else have suggestions for these tips? Keep 'em coming, lots of people will use this thread in the future! Thanks again.

 

I purchased a Rancher ES 4X4 for $5170 out the door. I found the $4999 price on the web. Called some local dealers. One about 50 miles away said he would go $5170. Went to the dealer here in town. His first offer was $5399. I mentioned that I already had one for $5170. He checked his computer and agreed. Arrived at the dealership at 4:50 and left with the Rancher at 5:25. Fastest 5 grand I ever spent.

 

SHOP AROUND AND MAKE PHONE CALLS!!! I saved $400 by driving an extra hour and paying taxes. Kinda like getting paid $200 an hour to drive!!