Burnt temp light?? (err..now it won't turn off)
#21
05-27-2003, 09:42 PM
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#22
05-27-2003, 09:48 PM
Burnt temp light?? (err..now it won't turn off)
Yes exactly...I don't know how much it is. I would say real easy to change it's right behind the head with a singe wire going into it. Do a search for oil sensor or oil presure sensor. I recall reading a couple guys needing to replace theirs.
#23
06-19-2003, 02:16 PM
Burnt temp light?? (err..now it won't turn off)
Ok went to the autoparts store and they didnt have one. It was a Advanced Auto Parts store. Does anyone know the part number so I can order it. I dont have a Pep Boys here. I have Autozone, Napa, Advanced, and OReillys. Anyone know the part number for the heat temp light at these stores.
#24
06-19-2003, 05:52 PM
#25
06-19-2003, 06:11 PM
Burnt temp light?? (err..now it won't turn off)
The light wont come on when I turn my key on. The neutral light does work. Tried to order the light from a dealership but they said it would be 10 days before they could get it in. Does anyone have any connections to helping me get one for Aledo?
#26
06-19-2003, 06:35 PM
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Burnt temp light?? (err..now it won't turn off)
Try taking the wire off of the oil sensor, than touch that same wire onto any good metal surface (groundable surface) like your radiator bolts, etc. It probably won't work on your frame because of the paint, just try it at many places. If the light comes on when you ground the wire (with the switch on, engine off), then I'm pretty sure it means your oil sensor is out.
#27
06-19-2003, 07:20 PM
Burnt temp light?? (err..now it won't turn off)
Ok went to the autoparts store and they didnt have one. It was a Advanced Auto Parts store. Does anyone know the part number so I can order it. I dont have a Pep Boys here. I have Autozone, Napa, Advanced, and OReillys. Anyone know the part number for the heat temp light at these stores.
#28
06-19-2003, 08:25 PM
Burnt temp light?? (err..now it won't turn off)
Just got back from the all the autoparts stores in town. No one had the exact light. Two of them carried a similar bulb but it didn't have the tabs on the outside of the red casing. Are the tabs necessary to keep it from falling out. If not will they work the other lights work.
#29
06-19-2003, 08:47 PM
Burnt temp light?? (err..now it won't turn off)
hmm m.... I've heard that the cdi has been the culprit for burning bulbs a few times before. Every time I hear that, I sit here and scratch my head, thinking "how's that possible". I'm still not sure it is. However I have a theory (totally unproven as of yet). My gut feeling is that it's the voltage regulator not handling the extra voltage from the stator very well.
The stator's output voltage directly depends on the rpm the engine is running (I don't remember the normal voltage range from idle to revlimit on a stock bike). The woods cdi has eliminated the rev limit function thus pumping higher than normal voltage into the regulator. From here I'm not sure what exactly is happing. The rectifier could be underrated for the voltage allowing alot dirtier (sp) voltage into the 12v DC circuit. Or the regulator could be overloaded allowing too high a DC voltage to enter the 12v DC system. Like I said, this is unproven, and I may be completely off base. From what I understand, this is not limited to a woods cdi, so that tells me it's probably not a flaw in the woods box. (unless every brand is flawed).
The easiest to check is the high DC output. Make sure your battery is freshly charged before you start. Get your VOM handy (volt/ohm meter) and monitor the voltage at the battery through the RPM's as you rev the engine. Especially the RPM's above the stock rev limit. I can't remember off the top of my head what the normal maximum voltage reading is, but it should be around 14.6v DC or so. I would say if your over 15v that's probably not normal. If your pushing 17v-18v, there is something definately wrong, and your lucky if you have any bulbs that aren't burnt.
Anyway, that's my theory. Take it for what it's worth. There is a way to check how dirty the voltage is (any AC current in the DC circuit) but until I find out what the acceptable level is (rectifiers aren't perfect, they only smooth out the AC), I could only guess what is unacceptable.
-Tom
-Tom
The stator's output voltage directly depends on the rpm the engine is running (I don't remember the normal voltage range from idle to revlimit on a stock bike). The woods cdi has eliminated the rev limit function thus pumping higher than normal voltage into the regulator. From here I'm not sure what exactly is happing. The rectifier could be underrated for the voltage allowing alot dirtier (sp) voltage into the 12v DC circuit. Or the regulator could be overloaded allowing too high a DC voltage to enter the 12v DC system. Like I said, this is unproven, and I may be completely off base. From what I understand, this is not limited to a woods cdi, so that tells me it's probably not a flaw in the woods box. (unless every brand is flawed).
The easiest to check is the high DC output. Make sure your battery is freshly charged before you start. Get your VOM handy (volt/ohm meter) and monitor the voltage at the battery through the RPM's as you rev the engine. Especially the RPM's above the stock rev limit. I can't remember off the top of my head what the normal maximum voltage reading is, but it should be around 14.6v DC or so. I would say if your over 15v that's probably not normal. If your pushing 17v-18v, there is something definately wrong, and your lucky if you have any bulbs that aren't burnt.
Anyway, that's my theory. Take it for what it's worth. There is a way to check how dirty the voltage is (any AC current in the DC circuit) but until I find out what the acceptable level is (rectifiers aren't perfect, they only smooth out the AC), I could only guess what is unacceptable.
-Tom
-Tom
#30
06-19-2003, 09:16 PM
