Oil Tanks??
#2
i tell you whats been working for me is, I take the drain plug out,and instead of taking the hose off to drain the oil-tank, I found a rubber hose that fits very snugg in the hole (were the cap screws in) and I blow all the oil out of the tank, though the motor, and out the bottom.
Now, I have measured the oil to make sure I am getting it ALL out,and it measures up FINE!
Unfortunatley, thier is NO REMEDY FOR THE OIL FILTER![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]
Bigger.
Now, I have measured the oil to make sure I am getting it ALL out,and it measures up FINE!
Unfortunatley, thier is NO REMEDY FOR THE OIL FILTER![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]
Bigger.
#3
BiggerisBetter speaks with wisdom - oil changes can be easy.
your oil tank has a drain with a plug in it right next to the hose on the bottom. Remove the plug and install a stainless steel ball valve in its place from the hardware store. The oil tank thread size is 3/8" npt, get a 3/8"-1/4" reducer bushing and install a 1/4" ball valve because a 3/8" ball valve is just too big. remove the handle from the ball valve and put it in your tool box.
get a 1/4"npt hose barb and put some vinyl tubing on it. when you wanna drain your oil, screw the barb into the ball valve just finger tight, put the end of the tubing in your drain pan, and open the valve with the handle in your tool box.
after its all drained, drain the crankcase, wipe off the end of the tubing and blow through it to purge the oil line going to the motor into the crankcase.
When you're all done, put a 1/4 plug in the end of the valve to keep crud out, and also serve as a safety if the valve should ever leak. you just remove the plug, screw in the barb/hose, and drain!
your oil tank has a drain with a plug in it right next to the hose on the bottom. Remove the plug and install a stainless steel ball valve in its place from the hardware store. The oil tank thread size is 3/8" npt, get a 3/8"-1/4" reducer bushing and install a 1/4" ball valve because a 3/8" ball valve is just too big. remove the handle from the ball valve and put it in your tool box.
get a 1/4"npt hose barb and put some vinyl tubing on it. when you wanna drain your oil, screw the barb into the ball valve just finger tight, put the end of the tubing in your drain pan, and open the valve with the handle in your tool box.
after its all drained, drain the crankcase, wipe off the end of the tubing and blow through it to purge the oil line going to the motor into the crankcase.
When you're all done, put a 1/4 plug in the end of the valve to keep crud out, and also serve as a safety if the valve should ever leak. you just remove the plug, screw in the barb/hose, and drain!
#5
I just get the hose out when I am done!!!
I just put a funnel under the tank and that is mess less, the only problem I have is that dang filter!!!
I was actually thinking of getting some car ramps and placing the DS on its side while I change the filter.. Just to keep the oil down hill.
I just put a funnel under the tank and that is mess less, the only problem I have is that dang filter!!!
I was actually thinking of getting some car ramps and placing the DS on its side while I change the filter.. Just to keep the oil down hill.
#6
When I change the filter I pack some rags under the cover. That way when I take off the cover the oil gets on the rags and not the ds. I also have adapted a fram sure drain in the oil tank, that makes oil changes a breeze. The only draw back is it eliminates the magnetic drain plug, but I haven't had any problems yet.
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Ricardo Covarrubias
Kids Quads & Other ATV's - Ask an Expert!
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Sep 17, 2015 08:28 AM
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