i got the DS today and adjusted the chain/shocks for my weight and started to break it in

it is a GREAT ride, and tons of fun but i feel the bottom end is lacking a bit....

i would like cheap clean HP (or anything for LOW end)

i have heard of many things....new end caps
K&N filter with airbox lid on/airbox lid off, and an outerwears?
a new pipe? (im looking into an MBRP system right now, but am worried about DB levels...)
i have heard a few of you talking about cutting the carb spring....can someone give me a step by step on it?

and then also rejetting (id like to wait to rejet until after i play with the exhaust/airbox so i dont have to do it more then once)

are these good mods? bad mods? not worth the $$$ mods? etc etc

o and i raced my freinds yfz 450s today (it was after about an hour in break in) first time off the line i HOOKED front end popped way up and i nearly took out our flagger!) second time i hooked, but the yfz didnt...so we restarted

this time i let power on a TAD slower so i can control front end, and the YFZ was right with me but started taking a bike length or two...but after around 150 feet i started gaining on him [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

let me know what i need to do to liven this beast up a bit more guys!
thanks

 

The carb spring cutting is a great improvement for throttle responce! This is what you do...

Take the cap off THE TOP of the carb off, there are two phillips head scews.. After you have the cap off the spring is right there in the middle of the diaphram.. Take the spring out and count 6 coils from the top and cut them off.. 6 is what I call the magic # and it worked the best for me.. Now just simply put it back in the carb like it was and put the cap on!! This is the cheapest and easiest mod you can do so I suggest it be your first..[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

i read in ur sig that you have the KN filter with outerwears

do u run that lidless?

i potentially may have the same mods as you, just minus the rwr springs (valve springs?)

anyway what is your overall power increase over stock? how is your low end?

 

The stock pipe is what kills the low end on the DS650. Any other pipe will throw you into shock on how much LOW END you gain from it. It also makes the power so much smoother. As for the filter and jetting set up, believe it or not I'm running a dyno-jet 165 main which is leaner than stock and I'm stil running rich..... So I cut a bunch of holes in the airbox lid which helped but I'm still running rich... As you can see in my signature I have an MBRP pipe.. I just made a deal with dsracer, I'm trading again for a white bros slip on.... I personally didn't like the MBRP that's why I'm getting rid of it.... I'm thinking this pipe is making me run rich because it never did with my FMF.... and the carb spring trick, drilling out the vacume ports to 1/8", pipe, jet kit, and filter made quite a difference and you will appreciate it!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Oh and the 60% springs are CLUTCH springs.... With ANY mods you do to the DS it is A MUST to get stiffer clutch springs being the stock ones are very weak!! I know, I went though 3 clutches in the past year because of not running stiffer springs... Since I got the 60% stiffer springs it's been working great with no problems. I also run Valvoline motorcycle oil in my DS because it delivers high temperature wet clutch protection... You can get the springs at ron wood racing if you call Elliott and he will hook you up for about $30! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Hey Roost, I just completed all those mods that your talking about. I whent to a carb mount knn with outerwear. Jetting the carb to a 195 with the endcap mod. Cut about 5 - 5 1/2 coils off of my spring, and drilled out the two holes on the slide to a 1/8".

The power is unreal for such little money. I know that if you do these mods, you will be very amazed at how much your beast will open up.

Kenny

p.s. When you go to jet your bike, make sure that you get the back up screws that you'll need. You will need 3 4x10mm and one 4x12mm stainless steel allen head screws. You will need this, because you will have to use needle nose vice grips to get the stock screws out.

 

Pushin, I think your magic #6 is why youre running rich! I cut 4 off mine and it worked great WITH THE LID OFF!!!! Now when i went back to the lid it runs so rich its not even funny! I think with the oversized vacuum ports and shorter spring the slide opens up all the way (or at least too much) even when the butterfly is at half throttle, thus youre getting way too much fuel while not enuff air. Running lid and snorkels increases vacuum inside carb, and in my opinion runs the best WITHOUT modifying spring or ports!

Instead of butchering your lid or airbox, why don't you put youre stock spring back in and give it a try! I have a used carb coming in the mail so i can go back to the box, since i've already butchered mine i'm going to bore it and see what happens!?!?

ROOST, in my opinion if noise is a big issue then you're screwed!! MBRP is supposed to be the quietest by not sure of power increase to $$ is worth it. I would highly recommend getting a 15t front sprocket, a UNI filter, and maybe a dynojet kit. If you don't get a dynojet kit don't even worry rejetting for the UNI............sprocket and filter only total of $40!!

 

Good point DCryder!! I will stretch my spring back up once and see if that's the problem..... But I will lose throttle responce. I drilled out the vacume ports PLUS drilled two more on the opposite side of the slide and that helped wonders. I'm not sure on the slide spring then.... I will experiment and see if that's my problem... Thanks.