o.k. i now have a bottle, lines, fuel soleinod, nitrous solenoid, switches, fogger nozzel, and jets. i have ordered .022 and .024 nitrous jets, and .026 and .028 fuel jets. i plan on running 2 switches, 1 to turn power on to the solenoids and power up the fuel pump, and a wot switch to activate the nitrous at wide open throttle. i know the wot switch may take some rigging to get it right but i belive i can do it.does it sound like i am in the right direction? another question is i am looking at air/fuel guages in summit with aftermarket senders. if you are monitoring air fuel and hit the spray, if wet nitrous spray is jetted proparlly will air/fuel stay around 14-1? will this guage help me dial in my carb and nitrous?

 

air fuel monitors will work with nitrous. they are only accurate at around 14.7:1. they can be used to help determine if you are too lean or too rich. 14:1 is too lean! Stay around 12.5:1 to be safe and have max power.

 

by air/ fuel guage do you mean exhaust gas sensor with a air/fuel guage? or pressure guages for bottle pressure and fuel pressure? The key to consistent power witht the nitrous kits is bottle pressure when you hit the button. If you get a bottle heater ( not a blanket) with a pressure transducer than your last shot should be just about as strong as your first. An exhaust gas sensor hooked up to an air/fuel guage
can be very effective in dialing in your ratios, they work real time but if your running leaded race gas like most NOS guys you will destroy the sensor befor too long.

 

I use the air/fuel meter from K&N. You have to have a Bung welded into your head pipe for the O2 sensor.

I thought it would be a great idea for doing what I do, but, I very seldom look down at the guage. It is hard to race and look down to see what it is doing. As soon as the race is over, I can look at it and get a fairly good reading to see if it is rich or lean.

I am thinking about getting a EGT guage instead of the air/fuel. The EGT is more accurate then the standard O2 sensors.

DuneDevil

 

You are right on.

the wide open throttle switch is easy, but you must not run the large relay with it directly or you will burn out the micro switch.
the microswitch must turn on a SMALL relay 1 amp which then turns on a large relay to turn on the NOS, otherwise too much current willl burn up your micro switch.

 

Airfuel spray is independant of NOS, if your carb is running right you will inject NOS and it should run right.
16 to 20 is perfect ratio, run it like that for a few days till you get good, then run 18 / 22 jets for a while
22/28 is perfect ratio also but should be run after you have experinced NOS for a while.
ALSO REMEMBER THIS

when you FIRST TURN ON THE NOS the NOS is under 800 pounds and will inject FIRST then the gas will finally go about 1 second later.
for this second, your motor is being oxidized !
you may notice black puffs of smoke, this is a poor NOS setup.

before you run NOS for the day turn on your system and turn on everything BUT NOT THE NOS CYLENDER and run it like you would be running NOS, and you should get a thick CHUGGING sound (RUNNING WAY RICH) cause no NOS is being injected.

this is VERY GOOD it means you are really getting fuel, after the CHUG RUN then open the NOS bottle and you should have pure clean fun.
remember to also trun of the NOS bottle at the end of the day and run the NOS system until you get the CHUGGING RICHNESS again, then all the nos is out of the system.

If you always start and end like this your motor will last a long long time

if you just turn it on and blast through it, with pure nos for the first run of the day, you will be rebuilding your motor very shortly.

we ran our z400 for 6 months on NOS daily carfully like this and it ran beautifully even until the day we sold it.

so you should have a way of running the system with the NOS BOTTLE FF.

also you forgot the very most important thing.

you should have an inline pressure switch (you can get them from car shop) 28 bucks called a fuel pressure switch generic.

turn the gas pump on then adjust the pressure switch screw out until the relay connnects. this switch will be inline to the NOS solonoid.

If you have no FUEL PRESSURE your NOS WILL NEVER INJECT

I will tell you most definitely it saved our motor twice....
once when a wire got accidentally pulled off our fuel pump (NOS WOULD HAVE MELTED THE MOTOR)

and once when the fuel pump just didnt work, loose wire)

would have melted our motor again

that little switch saved us TWO MOTOR REBUILDS now tell me, how much is that switch worth to you?


very easy, just get a t connector tfor between the fuel pump and the fuel solomoid and put the pressure switch in there and run the NOS solonoid wire through this swithc.

BEST PROTECTION YOU'll ever buy, guaranteed.

 

ALL of my nitrous systems (cars and my bikes) on the dyno like to be between 12.1 and 12.3 they like to run a little fat it builds more power.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]