Went back to stock CDI from RWR...to test..
#11
Went back to stock CDI from RWR...to test..
Originally posted by: MudStud
I rode mine today with the 15/40/22 and first thing tomorrow I am putting that 14 back on!!!! those 22 tires really suck up power even with my new mods.. I still hit 8000 that would bounce the stock CDI.. Plus my @$$ is not the lightest.. I ring in at 260. So, I bet if you light weight Canadian were to get on my setup you would just RIP.... 7lbs = 1 hp. do the math [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] I bet you could easy hit 90+ on my quad Jeff...
I rode mine today with the 15/40/22 and first thing tomorrow I am putting that 14 back on!!!! those 22 tires really suck up power even with my new mods.. I still hit 8000 that would bounce the stock CDI.. Plus my @$$ is not the lightest.. I ring in at 260. So, I bet if you light weight Canadian were to get on my setup you would just RIP.... 7lbs = 1 hp. do the math [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] I bet you could easy hit 90+ on my quad Jeff...
#13
Went back to stock CDI from RWR...to test..
I dont agree. I tie a lawn mower to the back of your DS and see how fast you cant get in 20 miles.. You add weight and it requires more HP to move it you reach a point where there is more weight then power....
But you are right that more weight with SAME gearing will accelerate slower. change the gearing and it moves quicker.
But you are right that more weight with SAME gearing will accelerate slower. change the gearing and it moves quicker.
#15
Went back to stock CDI from RWR...to test..
Originally posted by: MudStud
I dont agree. I tie a lawn mower to the back of your DS and see how fast you cant get in 20 miles.. You add weight and it requires more HP to move it you reach a point where there is more weight then power....
But you are right that more weight with SAME gearing will accelerate slower. change the gearing and it moves quicker.
I dont agree. I tie a lawn mower to the back of your DS and see how fast you cant get in 20 miles.. You add weight and it requires more HP to move it you reach a point where there is more weight then power....
But you are right that more weight with SAME gearing will accelerate slower. change the gearing and it moves quicker.
If you wanna prove/disprove, try this...
Get your DS and a gps and hit a LONG flat road and run it till it reaches its peak. Then add 50lbs of weight(maybe in a backpack, but you'll have to use the backpack for both runs) and run it on the same flat road in the same direction(make sure there is more room than for the previous run). Make several passes each way(with and w/o the weight) to get an average baseline.
You'll find the top speeds to be approximatly the same, but the one with the xtra weight will take longer.
Funny thing about gearing...
Taller gearing(numarically) gives better acceleration, but does'nt affect mph much(in a measured distance such as 300ft, 1/8mi, 1/4mi). Of course it affects ultimate mph because of a motors rpm limits.
I had a car that ran 13.9's in the 1/4 with 3.08 rear gears. I switched to 3.73's(all else was the same) and ran 13.5's in the 1/4 but my mph changed less than 1mph!(99.5 vs 100.2)
Did the same thing with my Hayabusa. Ran 9.98 @ 142mph with stk gearing. Added 3 teeth to the rear sprocket and ran a 9.73 the same 142mph! I had a much harder time keeping the front down in first with the added 3 teeth because of the added acceleration.
#17
Went back to stock CDI from RWR...to test..
The 9.73 @ 142 was with the stk exhaust(complete with no mods). I did have a powercommander and did a small airbox mod(cut out the flapper valve) and added a BMC filter. It was strapped and lowered. Stk motor, stk tire. I am fairly adept at riding(I'm no light weight either...200#'s suited). Pulled a 1.611 60' with the stk arm on that pass. I added a Brock/Hindle pipe and map(all else the same) and knocked off several 9.60's and the best being a 9.55@ 147.37. I pulled a 1.581 60' on that pass(again with stk arm). When tuned and ridden right, they are VERY MEAN!
#18
Went back to stock CDI from RWR...to test..
Speaking of the 'Busa... It is the fastest production crotch rocket ever made acheiving a STOCK top speed of 186 mph which is now the limit for all production bikes.... kinda like the cspc's rule of 75 for quads...... Don't ask me where Dodge's Tomahawk bike comes in here, with a theroretical top speed of over 300MPH......[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]
#19
#20
Went back to stock CDI from RWR...to test..
Originally posted by: BaJaBoy03
Actually some of the years were 202 MPH out of the box.My buddy has one.Im guessing around 2000 was the year.I watched him have it Dyno'ed and the Dyno spun up to around 190mph. Approx 148 HP.
Actually some of the years were 202 MPH out of the box.My buddy has one.Im guessing around 2000 was the year.I watched him have it Dyno'ed and the Dyno spun up to around 190mph. Approx 148 HP.
Not trying to be a butt here, There has not been a production bike over 200mph. In fact, the Busa is in the Book of World records for the fastest production bike at 191mph. The Busa is geared for 208 mph at redline(17/40 gears w/ 190/50 r 17 tire). It will not pull the gearing. I ran the 43T rear and hit the limiter(11K) in 6th. That comes to 185-186mph(figured by tire size, gearing and rpm) actual. On a dyno there is no wind resistance, nor is there ram-air. Thus the speed is not what you'd actually see on the road. A busa will actually make more hp on the road than on the dyno due to the ram-air setup(which starts adding measurable hp at 120mph). At 170 or so mph its adding 10-15hp at the wheel. This helps, but cannot overcome the aerodynamic drag. All Busa's from 2001 and up are limited to 186mph(by the factory(the 99-00 were unlimited)). This can be cheaply bypassed). 148hp at the wheel was a slightly lower than the average Busa. Most at least make 152-155 at the wheel bone stk. Not that 148 is weak!
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