I am still running the ohtsu's from off our 400EX and haven't had wheelspin problems, even in sand, since installing them. The problem with the motocross style tires you are running is they are designed for really good moist dirt and they are not an all around tire. If you want the front end to come up nonstop put some 20in. blackwaters on and hang on because they will put the power to the ground on any machine! If the blackwaters are to agressive then look for a wide spaced tread pattern, I had shredders on our '86 250R and they spun like crazy on it, I ride mostly desert and dunes.

 

i think desertds might be right, try some wide spaced rear tires. ive had good luck with Dick Cepek spyder trac's, realator's might also be good. if you are having probs with paddles in the dunes, try more paddles, and in the taller hauler model. i wouldn't use an all out mud tire though, they dont keep as good handling, and feel funny in corners. you want to keep the "flat" profile tires, and less of a balloon tire. also the shorter the sidewall, like with a 10" rim, the better the handling. i have 22x12.5x8 spyder tracs and because the tire is alot wider than the rims, the tire doesnt flex very much, also with a wider tire, you get more surface area on the ground. i have never used realators, but they seem like they would work well.

 

I had realtors on my Banshee and they were to heavy for my style and riding areas, they are all business though they also put power to the ground. The problem with extreme traction tires is they weigh so damn much and are difficult to power slide. You get to much side bite in slides and this causes two wheeling and or rolling if you are caught off gaurd. My '88 250R had 20in. Blackwaters on it when I bought it and with their low profile they could be powerslided, but you had to be on your toes. I would stay with 20in. tires for the lighter weight and go for something with slightly rounded edges such as some of the dunlops that come on the newer banshees, you might check to see if you can find the ohtsu tread pattern that came stock on the '86 and I beleive the '87 250R's they are a good all around and long lasting tire also. Too flat a profile (such as the holeshot and holeshot copies or turf tamers.) I think gives you floatation in loose dry soil where the slightly rounded tires will dig in a little easier. Hope this helps.

 

It seems to me, since your having trouble with loose soil, use a tire made specifically for that, hence the suggestion of the Realtors etc. I haven't as much experience in the use of those in comparison with say my Holeshot XCT's (I do have Carlisle Stryker's on my Mojave, but comparing my two ATV's is rather like apples and oranges) but I bet if you talked to a few tires sales places about the use of that style of tire they would likely lead you in the right direction.

 

Try some Titan Trail Claw II rear tires they are rows of **** with spacing and i read a report on them and they had the best straight line traction although in the corners they slide a lot becuase had no ***** it the middle so it was like it was on ice skates...just a thought

 

I ran Realtors on 10" wheels on my 350X and it seemed very stable, these were the 12" wide, I think. Traction was really good, except for sand. They work for sand, but not anywhere near as good as even v-paddles.

I am really interested in the Ohtsu radials that are on the 400EX (and earlier TRX250R's). I have heard that they get all kinds of traction. A friend had them on his TRX250R and would pop wheelies on snow covered roads. So, they should do about as good as anything out there.

Is the 38 tooth noticeably better or even worth the trouble?

I am still completely stock, and I would like to make 3rd more usable.

I am also thinking about ordering the Dial-A-Jet. Do you know if you need to drill holes in the carb for one of those?

Thanks and laters,
CRT_Leech

 

I mentioned sacrificing suspension in regards to taller tires and the fender clearance (under heavy riding conditions) i.e. big jumps

Sorry for being unclear.

Gearing would be the cheapest alternative... gear = $40-50 whereas a set of tires is at least $100-150.

That or just gain weight! LOL

 

CRTLeech, A 38 tooth rear sprocket is noticably better and simple to install - no chain shortening. It makes first gear more usable and adds maybe up to 10mph of top speed without decreasing acceleration. With the extra power I have from the RW kit and my light weight, the gearing change was neccesary. In my case, I probably could have gone another tooth or two. Your weight, how much extra power you plan on getting out of that motor, and how much throttle response you want in first gear influence how much of a gearing change you would need. I don't know about the dial-a-jet, bigdaddy has one, ask him or ask about the dial-a-jet from the place you plan on buying it. I've read that it comes with a lot of explanation on how it works and how to set it up correctly.

 

Thanks for the info, ScoobyDFW.

Hey, KawasakiKid, are you runnig stock gearing? I am more in your weight range, though, I am hitting the weights again and losing rapidly. I still will only get down to around 220 or more when I get toned back up, if all goes to plan.

So, I am interested in what gearing other people are running with the stock setup and how it's working for them.

Thanks,
CRT_Leech

 

CRT, yes my DS is completely stock in every aspect. I've been busy throwing some aftermarket stuff on my older bikes than to put anything into the DS. Anyhow, I'm more than happy with it's performance.....for now.

Plus, If I were to do any mods I'd like to wait for an EFI kit with all the bugs worked out.

I just have too many toys / hobbies. God forbid I sell any of them!