cutting spring...are you happy w/ the outcome
#32
cutting spring...are you happy w/ the outcome
Sam..
Here are some pics:.. It was still in the rough stage when these were taken, but the basic principle is the same.
Move the filter away from the carb (straighten the airflow)
A place to hook up the vacuum line.
Prevent the filter from rubbing the seat.
Adapter
Adapter again
Adpater... once again
Here are some pics:.. It was still in the rough stage when these were taken, but the basic principle is the same.
Move the filter away from the carb (straighten the airflow)
A place to hook up the vacuum line.
Prevent the filter from rubbing the seat.
Adapter
Adapter again
Adpater... once again
#33
cutting spring...are you happy w/ the outcome
I read this entire thread. Then I went back and wrote down the list of mods in Mr.HP's original post. After reading the entire thread again I hope someone will address the question by JohnnyRaw regarding hill climbing. My Baja X is still in the 'breakin' stage and will see much more casual trail use than competition riding. I'd like to see more opinions/input before I cut my spring, or even order an extra spring to cut. I figure I've got all winter to get used to the new X and get it dialed in before I enter any sort of competitive event. Before taking it out yesterday afternoon I loosened the preload on the front shocks and added a bit of air to the back tires, making it corner much better. Those new radial tires make it hook up almost TOO well [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]. Mr.HP, I'd like to ask you a couple of setup questions if you would pm me, please.
#34
cutting spring...are you happy w/ the outcome
CraneMan / JohnnyRaw,
In my understanding of spring technology is that shortening the spring will not change the amount of force it uses to expand - to change the amount of force it uses to expand you have to thin the diameter of the wire used to comprize the spring for it to be softer. Shortening the spring should only server to make it shorter and in theory not change anything else. It seems to me the primary benefit of shortening the sping is that when compressed (wide open) it allows the carburetor to open wider, thus allowing more fuel delivery. (Kinda like if you open your mouth wider you can fit a 4 patty 4 cheese burger in your mouth rather than a single.)
Also I ride my quad up hills & didn't know anything, is this question about the spring closing fast enough on a hill geared towards a particular hill or something? The changes I noticed weren't biased by anything hills, flat ground or otherwise. Though I will admit I didn't have any 'competition' hills nearby at the time so I didn't ride anything of that sort.
As I said before on my 100% stock powered Baja I did notice extra bog on the low end, however I think the reason for that was extremely high altitude & I have a feeling if I can get to my normal riding altitude the spring trick may just work out for the better. (Even with my Baja using the uncut spring I had a good amount of bog; however I was at about 6000' instead of 3000' elevation.)
I didn't notice -ANY- change at all with the cut spring on my 2001 DS that has a K&N in the airbox and a White Brothers E-Series pipe. I haven't tried all of the other suggestions from the thread though as I get more riding time in the coming months I do plan to.
In my understanding of spring technology is that shortening the spring will not change the amount of force it uses to expand - to change the amount of force it uses to expand you have to thin the diameter of the wire used to comprize the spring for it to be softer. Shortening the spring should only server to make it shorter and in theory not change anything else. It seems to me the primary benefit of shortening the sping is that when compressed (wide open) it allows the carburetor to open wider, thus allowing more fuel delivery. (Kinda like if you open your mouth wider you can fit a 4 patty 4 cheese burger in your mouth rather than a single.)
Also I ride my quad up hills & didn't know anything, is this question about the spring closing fast enough on a hill geared towards a particular hill or something? The changes I noticed weren't biased by anything hills, flat ground or otherwise. Though I will admit I didn't have any 'competition' hills nearby at the time so I didn't ride anything of that sort.
As I said before on my 100% stock powered Baja I did notice extra bog on the low end, however I think the reason for that was extremely high altitude & I have a feeling if I can get to my normal riding altitude the spring trick may just work out for the better. (Even with my Baja using the uncut spring I had a good amount of bog; however I was at about 6000' instead of 3000' elevation.)
I didn't notice -ANY- change at all with the cut spring on my 2001 DS that has a K&N in the airbox and a White Brothers E-Series pipe. I haven't tried all of the other suggestions from the thread though as I get more riding time in the coming months I do plan to.
#35
#36
cutting spring...are you happy w/ the outcome
I didn't notice any difference between the 2001 and 2003 - however I did not examine them side by side before cutting, nor did I take a long look at them side by side. If the wire is thinner, that means it will be softer. Try the new spring & see if you notice any difference. If not, I'd cut the old one. If you do notice a difference, then you've got a decision to make depending on what that difference is between the two springs.
#37
cutting spring...are you happy w/ the outcome
The diameter of the wire plays a small role in the spring rate. It's actually more around the makup of the steel used in the wire and the amount of coils per inch.
It's easy to check the spring rate; all you need is a scale and a ruler. Press on the spring 1 inch down with it on the scale and read what it says. That is the spring rate.
By reducing the length of the spring, you don't change the spring rate, but you do change the amount of force the spring is applying at that particular length.
For example:
Two identical 6 inch springs with the same spring rate of 2lbs per inch. You cut one inch off of one spring, leaving the other the same length.
You install the springs in an area that is 4 inches long. The non-cut spring will exert a force of 4lbs (it was compacted by 2 inches), the cut spring will only exert a force of 2lbs (it was already 1 inch shorter because it was cut, so it was only compacted 1 inch). This means the cut spring will open sooner and open fully sooner, but they will open at the same rate (initial force was less, but the spring rate is the same).
Hope this helps.
It's easy to check the spring rate; all you need is a scale and a ruler. Press on the spring 1 inch down with it on the scale and read what it says. That is the spring rate.
By reducing the length of the spring, you don't change the spring rate, but you do change the amount of force the spring is applying at that particular length.
For example:
Two identical 6 inch springs with the same spring rate of 2lbs per inch. You cut one inch off of one spring, leaving the other the same length.
You install the springs in an area that is 4 inches long. The non-cut spring will exert a force of 4lbs (it was compacted by 2 inches), the cut spring will only exert a force of 2lbs (it was already 1 inch shorter because it was cut, so it was only compacted 1 inch). This means the cut spring will open sooner and open fully sooner, but they will open at the same rate (initial force was less, but the spring rate is the same).
Hope this helps.
#38
cutting spring...are you happy w/ the outcome
I followed "MisterHP's" recipe, end cap, cut spring, also had a dyno kit that was purchased some time a go, works GREAT. did some up hill races over the weekend, it is what the quad needed, even beat that other type quad, (piped) twice !!!!!!! this set up worked great on my stock baja, a little loud