Im not very good with engines yet...but i put an MBRP full race pipe (headers all the way back) and a KN filter with outerwear....
i had my local shop rejet it...
the other day i went to start it, and nothing....(a few pops here and there...) after about 4 mins of this i pulled the plugs......i was confused...wernt plugs supposed to be whitish/tannish? lmao...these suckers were CHARCOALIZED.... so i popped in two fresh plugs....and it ran pretty good (i guess...) at the dunes...
i tried to start it again the other day to find it had the same symptoms.... it also now backfires quite a bit throughout riding, and its burning a little bit of oil.... (light bluish smoke comes from the exhaust for the first 5 mins or so after start up) [im really hoping i dont have burnt rings or anyting....]
ok i am currently selling the MBRP tailpipe on ebay in favor of the Whitebrothers e-series (it just came in today) so...what should i do...put WB pipe on and see how it runs??? (im assuming the whitebrothers pipe will make it run LEANER....being as it isnt wide open like the mbrp, so more backpress and a little less flow?)
let me know what you guys think i should do!
thanks in advance guys

 

Have you had your valve lash checked yet?

 

the black smoke you are seeing is not oil it is gas you must be a little rich on the star try adjusting you air-fuel mix about 1 half turn or a full turn out also the mbrp exhaust allout sucks if i had to do it allover again i would buy the ron woods racing exhaust it is the best on the market

Why did you get someone to jet it you should be able to do that yourself in like 10 mins i have a 175 main jet in my stock carb on gas

Anything will flow better than the mbrp exhaust so you may gain a little power with the e series


stay away from the propeg nerfs they suck when your trying to shift the machine

 

o really? hmmm i liked them cuz for 200 u get pegs/heel guards and nerfs...maybe ill just go normal nerfs for like 100....

how do they impare shifting?

and wouldnt WB breathe LESS...being it has discs...and MBRP was WIDE OPEN ??

thanks guys

 

well i've had mind since about may and i love them, and you just need to adjust the net, wen i first got it i had it really tight and it was a pain to shift, but i just have them a lil loose and it works perfect

 

ROOSTman...

I've ran the MBRP race (just the slip-on--on daughters DS now/bolt-ons), and I've ran the E-series...the e-series comes with 12 disks which is good for low-end and mid range (woods, hills, trails) and b-pressure will make you richer not leaner (won't it?). I added 8 disks (which requires longer bolts--kit from rockymountainatv.com) and that was a nice improvement sofar as the topend goes. You can also remove all the disks and the backplate and just put the endcap on for asthetics sake which will flow nicely but won't let you ride where spark arrestors are req'd. With stage III porting, valves, cams, piston...modded end cap blows both those pipes away!

IMO, jetting yourself is a must...it isn't too bad once you change out the pesky bowl screws w/ stainless allen head screws--3@4mmx10mm & 1@4mmx12mm, and for the top of the carb I believe the screws are 2@5mmx10mm...somebody please correct me if wrong.

BTW--youre gonna like the E-series much better!

 

seems you need a 170-180 main jet.

 

yeah not only adjust the net but don't forget you can adjust the position of the shifter too.

Rich yes, but rich where? a guy can be lean on the main but still fowl a plug from rich idle/pilot, or vice versa. the needle position is a big deall too.

You may lean when you install the WB. The mbrp does not flow that well, the WB will flow better. Even with 12 disks. And contrary to popular belief disks do not restrict flow if you use the correct # of them. Look at any dyno chart comparing CT to Graydon, such as shootouts between 400ex and raptor, and you will see the CT outperform the graydon every time, on any bike, and the only difference between these two pipes is the CT has disks, other than that they are the same made at same shop.

Run 18 disks on that WB for peek top end - the little bit of bottom loss going from 12 to 18 is no big deal but the gain on top is significant, and it'll still have better bottom than any open end pipe anyway. if you get allot of black soot building up on the end and blowing on the grab bar, you're rich indeed - but where you're rich is another matter. but if your mixture is right everywhere then you will only notice dull gray on the disks and nothing much on the bar.