help with tuning
#11
Originally posted by: MisterHP
Do this:
air lid on
air tubes in, zip tied to the frame instead of run under the tank
stock needle in the richest position
175 main
front tires 15psi
If this wont do the job you need the intake ported...it's good for about 4hp
Ported intake and billet end cap are the cheapest and quickest upgrades for the DS. They provide more hp per dollar than any other mod.
MrHorsepower
Do this:
air lid on
air tubes in, zip tied to the frame instead of run under the tank
stock needle in the richest position
175 main
front tires 15psi
If this wont do the job you need the intake ported...it's good for about 4hp
Ported intake and billet end cap are the cheapest and quickest upgrades for the DS. They provide more hp per dollar than any other mod.
MrHorsepower
#12
thats a good question, is 15 psi only good for drags or trail riding too. are these mods for drag racing only or can i keep it like that while riding trails and how do u adjust the needle to the richestposition. wee will see you saturday waynester
#13
When looking at the needle the richest position is the lowest grove on the needle, which will raise your needle.
All those mods are good for all around riding---still waiting for the tire pressure thing...
All those mods are good for all around riding---still waiting for the tire pressure thing...
#14
yes ironrod the end cap has been modified to be just like the aftermarket one u can buyand mister hp, is there anything else i can do be for spending much money. remember i want to spend as litle as possible right now, i'm on a budget.
#15
High air pressure creates low rolling resistance. Try pushing a wheelbarrow with a flat or nearly flat tire, now air it up tight and see how easy it pushes. I would only run it that high for drag racing. You might try 87 octane to speed up your timing. Lube your chain real good it's worth 1hp on the dyno. Pull your brake calipers away from the rotors and dont use them until you have raced your cuz. You will have to pump the brake pedal a couple times before they work so leave yourself some shut down room.
MrHorsepower
MrHorsepower
#16
muddeep,
try putting 1-2 hose clamps (3"-4")around the intake boot between the carb and air box. this will keep the boot from vibrating under acceleration. if you take your seat off and rev it up youll see the boot vibrate alot. this causes turbulance.
I also recomend the 15t sprocket. youll lonch off the line harder. since your on a budget, another mod to do is 60% heaver clutch springs. the stock are good till you start doing mods then they start to slip, there about $30 contact Ironrod.
hope this helps Good luck[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
try putting 1-2 hose clamps (3"-4")around the intake boot between the carb and air box. this will keep the boot from vibrating under acceleration. if you take your seat off and rev it up youll see the boot vibrate alot. this causes turbulance.
I also recomend the 15t sprocket. youll lonch off the line harder. since your on a budget, another mod to do is 60% heaver clutch springs. the stock are good till you start doing mods then they start to slip, there about $30 contact Ironrod.
hope this helps Good luck[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#17
ok thanx for the advice but the turbulance thing, if it's anythng like an air intake on a car the hose clamps won't do anything but hold the boot inplace the inside of the tube would have to be smooth. so then i would have to find another solution fr that.



