well since they have access to all the shims (im HOPING they have shims...lol) then it shouldnt be too big of a deal...because they can just measure them on the spot to see if they are correct...

 

before anyone hounds me for saying there the same ones the Raptor uses, let me clarify..im not sure of that.. i got my shims at a local Honda dealer(the only local dealer) he had a entire rack of honda type shims.. and a huge box with differnt containers of "the other guys" shims... the ones i found that matched... he said were for Raptor.. .the container was labled "Yamaha". but all in all it wasnt too orderly.. just a little dealer in No-where USA.. so if thats a mistake.. than my bad.. thats what i was told.... But all i can say is if my Little dealer had um.. yours will.. this place stocks like 15 bikes and no aftermarket stuff!

 

...are you sure they're the same as the Raptor? That's the first time I've heard that. I have heard they are the same as the KZ1000 streetbike/cop bike tho...

My biggest gripe is the dealership that wants 6-10 bucks a piece! when the BMW dealership in San Diego had'em for $2.

 

ummm seeing as how i have never done it, and seeing as how it takes "20" minutes to do, i assumed there was a lot of bolts/screws to undo....

and without sitting here looking at it, the only thing i know off hand is that there are two screws for the plastic up by the tank...i only asked because i dont feel like driving 10 minutes to spend 45 minutes looking around trying to see what needs to come off first, or where the bolts/screws are located.... (just thought if someone could say...THERE ARE 10 BOLTS ALL UNDER THE TANK...that 5 seconds of typing might save me time while trying to find them...)

you could have made it simple and just said "its easy, & self-explanitory" [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

No offense; but if you want us to tell you how to take your gas tank off.. id say you should have your dealer do your valves.. no matter what the charge.. one mistake on the timing change will be a engine teardown at minimum to a rebuild... would be very easy to let the chain jump a tooth or move the cams a bit.

 

none taken....

and again, i only asked about how to remove the tank, so that i would know in advance how many bolts/screws etc there were (just to save time)

im assuming by these replies anyone with a 4th grade education can unbolt the tank... (i just dont have my quad here, so i cant just go look to see....)

 

you have to remove the four bolts that hold the "hood" on.. then there are four bigger bolts that hold the gas tank on.. remove the hose going to carb, turn the pecock "off" and it lifts off exposing the top of the engine for easy access to the cams/valves..

 

THANK YOU... lol..

the 30 seconds it took you to type that probably saved me 15 minutes or so....


im gonna rejet my quad probably tomorrow, and if it still has problem im going to assume ive got a bent or tweaked valve....
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

Like I said, "just razzing"...SO:

There are 4 bolts on the nose piece that need to come off--the two that attatch on the sides of the tank shroud and the two up front--way up front, and then...there are four bolts that hold the tank shroud/cover in place and the two spacers under the shroud by the seat area. Once you get all the nuts and bolts for the shroud and disconnect the fuel line from the carburator, remove your gas cap so when you slide the shroud and tank towards the back of the quad you can then lift the shroud off...the tank will be free at this time also. You'll see that the tank has a molded tongue on the front that helps keep it in place...everything will become clearer as you engage in the task.

Sorry if I offended you...it is easy.

I would put money on the fact that the dealership that quoted you $60 thinks the valve adjustment is like on a EX400 or something and it's not. The shims are close to 30mm in diameter and from 2-3mm thick and they sit on top of a bucket over the valve springs. All you need to adjust them yourself is feeler gauges and a top dead center bolt which you can remove one of your stock swing arm skid plate bolts and grind the tip down a bit--not to a point but to a taper--which you can replace once you've done the valve job. So, once you get the crank at TDC, check your clearances and write them down, if they're out of spec take the shims out that need replacing and head to the dealership where they can mic them and give you the ones you need. If they are a good dealership they might even do an exchange if your shims aren't galled.

10 minutes is up!

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

thanks, didnt really take offense to it, just wanted some info! lol

if the shims just sit on top it should probably be pretty easy...and if i dont do it in my schools shop, im sure my teacher will let me borrow the micrometer and feeler guages...

and if that dealership dosnt have them, there is a BOMB dealership about 50 minutes away i can go to if needed (and im sure they would have them.....)

hopefully it would be done in one trip... (measure current ones, figure out the difference needed to get back to OE specs, then get new ones that will put it to OE....)

pardon my low-knowledge of engine parts, but what are "buckets?" you say the shims are on top of them, do i have to do anything to check clearances? (unscrew anything or take somting off to get to the shims?)

lastly, how accurate is using the swingarm bolt @ getting it at exactly TDC? (i assume the threads on those bolts match up to the Plug threads (or it would make it just a little difficult to do [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] ) how far do you screw that bolt into the head?

Thanks a lot guys!