alright now that i found out where it is, how do i go about adjusting it?


jeff

 

Read the jetting and symtom, link that was sent eariler. Or try ths one
tuning
Just remember things can be undone, so be be afraid to adjust and test drive, and adjust some more.

 

Jiffy I hope I caught you in time. Before you go changing fuel mixtures and things. Try this, start engin in full choke run about 30-60 seconds. Set the park break on the rear hand break if you have one, I hope like I do If not hold break or foot break. Anyhow push choke in all the way so that you can put transmission in drive. Once there pull back out on choke just enough to keep engin running but not turn wheels. Run another 30 to 60 seconds. The reason for all this is the oil in the transmission ( what ever kind the 650 has I don't know ) at 20 degress is thick and laying in a puddle. You get that oil churnning, airated, and a little warmed up. You will feel a difference in drivability and shifting when starting out. It may take 2 or 3 times to get the choke in and transmission in drive and back out on the choke with out stalling. You will get the hang of it. If you have already played with screws try this any how. As temp get warmer you will need less time till next winter. Don't let the 500 traxter fool you as I have to do this type of warm up cause so much of my engin oil just lays down in the transmission and not moving or getting heated. I started do this in a Jeep 25 years ago when temp. got to zero or less. I would put Manual (90 weight oil would get real thick) transmission in first and transfere case in neutral. I think you and others here will find this is what causes the stalling at first start up. IHTH PS. Backfiring at shut off in bomb is sometimes too fast of an idle.

 

those are good websites, but im still stumped on how to adjust it. anyone on here can give me a step by step on how to adjust it properly?


jeff

 

If you are looking at it from the bottom turn it clockwise about 1/4 turn at first. See how this runs. Then slowly continue turning it until it runs at a slow idle without dying with the choke off. If the idle is too fast, then turn it down until it idles smoothly.

I have travelled between the cold Northwest weather to the sunny So.Cal weather. Here at home, I need the choke to get started. While at Glamis, I never once touched it. Then came back here, I was immediately back to the choke. Temperature definitely has an effect on needing the choke on the DS. It also depends on what octane fuel you are running. Dont run anything but 92 or higher in the DS.

You should also check your airfilter for airflow. If it is dirty, that can effect the cold running and diagnosis of the choke and idle.

I hope this helps a little.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]