I was thinking to keep the 12 paddles and go longer on the arm if there were too many paddles for the length of the arm.

 

Well i dought 12" is going to do much better as far a wheel stands it will just make your bike 4" taller when its standing. i actualy have a 12" on the bench. demon hit it on the head less paddles smoother take off and higher speeds wiht less strain on the engine.

The twelve will only make it harder to play with thats why i took mine off !!! Ironicaly my twelve" swing arm is going to someone with a EFI Turbo ds.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Just so it's clear what I'm talking about, the wheeling is not from excessive hook up loading down the engine revs or bogging for the power it's producing. What I was doing was taking off in 2nd gear running 200 feet without shifting. The tach is always pegged at 10,000RPM the whole time. The tires are at full speed instantly and the DS catches up to wheel speed during the 200 feet. The more boost I run, the more aggressive ignition timing I run, the more fine tuned the jetting is, the more the wheeling. If I back down on those things the wheeling is not as much of a problem. It's the torque that's wanting to bring the frontend up.

True less paddles will lessen the effect and smooth out the acceleration. The side effect of less paddle is slower acceleration, especially off the line. When you're trying to run against lightweight drag banshees slower isn't acceptable, and the hardest part is staying with them off the line.

I added pics of some stretched banshee's to my ATV connection photo page.

 

This may sound kinda wild but maybe your at the point that you should tune down HP at launch and have the ignition dial in as much power as you think you can put to the ground, kinda like top fuel rails do with their clutch... You could retard ignition timing or drop some boost or...??? Well, you get the idea.

 

My suggestion is to take out the problem on the frame. Relocate the problem, so you can get a lower stance on your current setup. The more horizontal your swing-arm is to the ground the less likely it will want to "lift". Once you take care of the frame then you can lower the rear and the front another 4" .

Its a damn same you cant use all your power from start to finish!! you gotta get that chassis set-up right.....Also if you make a deliberate effort to light that quad by 70lbs it will also help your problem alot!



BIgger.

 

man 10,00 for 200 feet that must be wild, i get excited when it happens for moments at a time, thought my machine might jump out from under me

 

I can adjust the rear shock preload to give a near horizontal swingarm but the DS is only lowered around 1.5-2" which is not enough. Timmyboy makes a unique swingarm used in their lowering kit. The round housing portion is raised while maintaining an angled swingarm orientation. This might work. Maintaining the angled swingarm orientation reduces the chain clearance problems. The frame design is quirky. The front sprocket horizontal centerline is offset vertically from the swingarm bolt horizontal centerline which creates the chain clearance issues since no decent front chain guide system is used.

http://www.tbrproducts.com/html/b-ds650.htm#

Have you seen forcefed's chassis lightening... http://forums.atvconnection.com/Photos.cfm?ID=99

 

that looks to be a lighter frame, think it would work for a duner? probably not[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] that thing looks to be half as heavy as before.

 

Wow, like to see what he did up front and after he rebuilt the top shock mount, not sure if I'de want to dune that [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

Here are a couple thoughts. I am not familiar with your setup, so some of this may not apply.


1) Longer swingarm. This will move the weight bias of the quad forward, putting a higher percentage of the weight on the front end and lower % of weight on the rear. That will keep the front from coming up.

When you do this you will have less weight on the rear tires, i.e. less traction so they will spin easier. If you are already spinning the rear through 200 ft. with a +8, when you go to a +12 you may very well need a more aggressive paddle. Ripper paddles or Taller Hallers, or more # of paddles.

2) Lower the front end. This will help keep it on the ground. Any method will work, but I feel the best way to do this would be with a set of Zero Preload shocks. Set them up with as much sag as possible, hopefully more than half way through the travel. The front end can come up 6 or more inches and the front tires will still be on the ground.

3) Stiffen the rear shock.

Good luck!

RR1