called the dealer to see how much it is to jet my ds they want 120$!!!!!!! told him im getting the end cap and a k&n and they want 2 hours labor to do it [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] why do they get so much moneyyyyyyyy hahaha also no one has the part number off the k&n?????? im going to keep the box but no lid** do i have to rejet with these 2 things i know people say u might have to?

 

sounds like they don't want to do it.

 

If you put on an endcap you must re-jet. It just plain won't run without it. You can do it yourself. There are lots of threads over the past year that can help you.

Justin

 

Why bother with the dealer at that price? jets cost around $2-$3 a piece. start at +10 from stock and make the suggested adjustments on the needle and see how it runs. I went from a 165 to a 175 main and put the needle at 4th clip down from bottom (elevation at 50 feet) and did not need to change the pilot jet and it worked out awesome. if the + 10 don't work try this
Even if you popped for the extra expense of a jetting kit, don't expect your jetting to be "spot on" unless you are willing to experiment and try different jets. Why? Say you install the main jet the jet kit recommends and it seems to run OK. Is it truly the best for your machine in your riding conditions? It may not be, unless you experiment by going up a jet size at a time until your machine exhibits a stumble at full throttle, indicating a too rich mixture. Then by dropping back one size you can be confident that now you have the correct jet for your machine in your riding conditions.
The same thing should also be done with the other fixed jets of your carburetor (jet needle and slow speed pilot jet.).
WORKING WITH INDIVIDUAL CARBURETOR CIRCUITS
So, how do you start? At the bottom. Then you jump to the top and work your way down.
IDLE MIXTURE SCREW:
The idle mixture screw is the only externally adjustable carburetor jet available and controls up to 1/8 throttle only. By turning this screw inward you are reducing the air flow, thus richening the idle mixture.
When the motor is up to operating temperature, set your idle speed screw to a stable idle. Then use your idle fuel screw to obtain a stable idle. Reset the idle speed screw as necessary after obtaining the correct idle mixture.
MAIN JET
The main jet controls 3/4-full throttle only. Ideally you should start very rich (large numbered jet) and test at full throttle. It should skip. If not then you are not rich enough! Once you have your rich stumble, back off one size at a time until full throttle operation results in normal operation. (Note: If your ATV runs faster at 3/4 throttle than full throttle you are definitely lean on the main!)
JET NEEDLE
The slide's jet needle controls 1/4-3/4 throttle. It does this by passing upward through the needle jet. The needle jet is a long brass tube that contains many small holes in its sides that air passes through. Fuel from the float bowl enters this air stream from the main jet and into the center of the needle jet where it mixes with the air to create an emulsion. This mixture of fuel and air is then metered by the height, taper and diameter of the jet needle as the emulsion passes upward around the jet needle into the carb's bore where it mixes with still more air to (hopefully) arrive in the motor in a combustible fuel-to-air ratio.
If you have a soft hesitation, without a hard stumble, anywhere between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, chances are your needle is lean, so raise the needle by lowering the clip. Conversely, if you have a hard stumble, chances are the needle position is rich, so lower the needle by raising the clip.
this should help