How many of you guys use a bottle heater, pros and cons, how do you have it wired, are you using a pressure switch to kill it, etc.?

While we're at it, talk pros and cons of a purge kit too.

 

I use one in my car but havent put one on my ds yet. They are great to have much less hassle then trying to keep them warm. Most people wire them directly to a switch and just moniter the pressure. That is how I always wire them, you just need to be carefull and not leave it on for a few days...lol.. I have never had one that overheats a bottle. They keep the temps. right around 86-87 which keeps good pressure. A purge is a good thing to have also, I dont run on on my ds I just purge it through the motor. With the purge you dont have to do that you can just push the botton and purge the air out or drop bottle pressure to your liking. I didnt want to put one on the ds because I didnt think it was practical. I figured it would draw to much attention. Plus purging it through the motor works better because it bleeds air out of the fuel also. I am now making an air bleed for the fuel when I put on a bigger fuel pump, you dont want all that fuel pressure sitting there building up while your getting ready to spray it. The air bleed bleeds off excessive fuel pressure and keeps it constant, but you really dont need one with the low pressure fuel pump that comes in the kits. The only downside to both is just more wiring and more switches and buttons.

 

How long is your drag and how many runs are you doing back to back?

The guys that run our hill at Sand Mt. seem to run them but, the hill is a long one. This ain't no 300' drag.

 

I have both NX and NOS heaters. I can't really tell that one works better than the other. Nos like alky doesn't work as well in cool weather. You have some tuneing problems because you are running a little leaner at the carb with the cooler air.

I have cut more plugs in cool weather than any other time.

 

The drag I'll be setting up for the most part is Sand Mt. Utah, and that's as tall as they get.
I've never ran NOS before, does the bottle get cold as you draw from it, making a heater more important on long runs?

amd you say you never have any problems over-pressuring, meaning the pressure switch that shuts the heater off at 1100psi is unecesary? I too want to keep clutter at a minimum, but its gets over 100 in May in Utah by 10:00am and I don't want to slip-up forget about the switch and have a bomb on my Bomb if you know what I mean.

The purge is something I wanted more for effect than anything, a couple red LED's inside the nostrels of the front plastic, with purge lines snorting through the glow at night on the line-up would be killer sick.

Thanks for the tuning info THEBOM, that makes sense.
hey when you say purge through the motor do you mean just hit the button to spray with the motor off?

 

after racing with nos on a car with the bottle heater and guage for system pressure and purge blow off, i don't know how you guys run without it? with out the correct bottle pressure and purged system it sounds like a hit and miss deal?

 

Yea I have never had a bottle heater over heat a bottle. For the bottles on my ds I put them in my truck with the heater on and put them directly in the hot air. That only works for about 2 passes at the most, the first pass really hits hard though..lol.. that is why a bottle heater is almost a must. As for purging through the motor, I start the bike and let it warm up then hold the throttle at about 2500 to 3000 and tap the micro switch fast and the motor revs up when it revs nicely and clean it is ready to go. You never want to inject n20 into a engine that is not running and then try to start it, BIG BANG...lol.

 

Cool thanks alot, no shut-off pressure switch for the heater then. besides, the bottle has a safety relief valve on it anyways.
And as for the purge technique, that's what I needed to hear. There's always a certain amount of stuff you gotta get from word of mouth that you can't find written down anywhere!

While we're on the subject, how about suggestions on the max boost I'd wanna put on a pami (JE) 11.5:1 providing correct jetting and fuel/nos pressures?

And what about ignition timing and rev limiters, I have the RWR CDI but should I re-install the stocker?

 

Leave the woods cdi on, but run atleast 105 octane fuel. I suggest 110. If your tune is correct I wouldnt be afraid to run about a 30-35 shot. The woods cdi advances the timing but that is what the 110 fuel is for, to keep it from detonating. You could back the timing off and maybe run a 40 shot or so with the 110 fuel, but that is getting into some serious tuning and I dont think I would run that high with the low pressure fuel pump.