air fuel sensor/ O2 probe mount location??
#11
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Prozaks o2 photo looks just like my bike. The location is fine. Been using one for about a year and still loving yet.
Idle doesn't provide enough flow to get a good reading, but everywhere else its great.
If you are going to use 100 octane or higher, funny fuel or alcohol, I would go with a temp gauge because it'll plug the o2.
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Idle doesn't provide enough flow to get a good reading, but everywhere else its great.
If you are going to use 100 octane or higher, funny fuel or alcohol, I would go with a temp gauge because it'll plug the o2.
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#13
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After the motor warms up, it adjusts several times a second. Since I run in the sand a lot, I jet for .900v and the bike runs great. On the hard pack trails, I would jet closer to .875v
Because I have the gauge mounted on my bike and the Lectron carb is so easy to adjust, we tune for each weekend. If its about bragging rights on the hill, its not unusual for me to jet 2-3 times in the same day for competitive advantage. I'm referring to around a 1/2 bike advantage with the desert temperature changes from morning to afternoon. Most people wouldn't want to do this, but I'm picky about my performance and telling lies around the campfire[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
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Because I have the gauge mounted on my bike and the Lectron carb is so easy to adjust, we tune for each weekend. If its about bragging rights on the hill, its not unusual for me to jet 2-3 times in the same day for competitive advantage. I'm referring to around a 1/2 bike advantage with the desert temperature changes from morning to afternoon. Most people wouldn't want to do this, but I'm picky about my performance and telling lies around the campfire[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
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#14
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where did you guys get ur sensors and guages?
are they electrical gauges or mechanical?
im very interested in this as im tired of "guessing" what needs what..... (especially when we travel to higher elevations, like utah, i spend WAY too much time trying to find the optimum setup)
is there a way around welding in a bung? (im sure i can find somebody local to do it, but would be easier if there was another solution)
and rat rider, what carb do u have? 46hv? i assume low throttle dosnt matter a whole lot as i assume u keep speed/rpm up pretty high desert riding?
i have heard too many stories about not getting the 46hv dialed in and it not being reliable at low throttle... what is your experience? (when i say low throttle im talking low...just off idle. we do a pretty good amount of really slow technical stuff where i usually have to slip the clutch just to keep it in first, and it would be a serious pain to have to either keep rpms way up and risk my clutch, or to keep restarting it)
and sorry about semi-hijacking your thread D-S
are they electrical gauges or mechanical?
im very interested in this as im tired of "guessing" what needs what..... (especially when we travel to higher elevations, like utah, i spend WAY too much time trying to find the optimum setup)
is there a way around welding in a bung? (im sure i can find somebody local to do it, but would be easier if there was another solution)
and rat rider, what carb do u have? 46hv? i assume low throttle dosnt matter a whole lot as i assume u keep speed/rpm up pretty high desert riding?
i have heard too many stories about not getting the 46hv dialed in and it not being reliable at low throttle... what is your experience? (when i say low throttle im talking low...just off idle. we do a pretty good amount of really slow technical stuff where i usually have to slip the clutch just to keep it in first, and it would be a serious pain to have to either keep rpms way up and risk my clutch, or to keep restarting it)
and sorry about semi-hijacking your thread D-S
#15
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click here
Don't get the red background, it's hard to read. I have the round mounted on my bike and use the rectangle one as a tester in my tool box. My friends have both styles and we all like the rectangle a bit more. Plus, the back of my round popped out and I had to rtv it back in. Gauge works fine, just the aluminum bottom popped loose.
Mark the spot on the exhaust, use a 7/8" hole saw and poke the hole. Pull the head pipe and take it to a weld shop. Print out Prozacks picture and show to a small weld shop. $5-10 would be fair, especially if you already drilled the hole.
This will probably draw some flack, but in MY opinion, if you properly tune and jet a Lectron it will idle at 1,600 rpm all day long. I rock crawl as well and need excellant throttle control, and the Lectron provides that.
If you set the lower end up a tad fat and the top end right on, the Lectron is very trail worthy. The keys for setting up the Lectron:
Moose thumb gives better leverage, twist works good.
a good quality throttle cable
leave 1/8" of slack on the cable
ensure the slide opens all the way
ensure the cable path doesn't bind up
1/2 turn on the metering rod is a lot. Never let the rod get much shorter than 2.000"
I can take the rpm up to 1,800rpm and slowly let off the clutch in the sand and motor pulls controllably fine.
obviously, your milage may vary.
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Don't get the red background, it's hard to read. I have the round mounted on my bike and use the rectangle one as a tester in my tool box. My friends have both styles and we all like the rectangle a bit more. Plus, the back of my round popped out and I had to rtv it back in. Gauge works fine, just the aluminum bottom popped loose.
Mark the spot on the exhaust, use a 7/8" hole saw and poke the hole. Pull the head pipe and take it to a weld shop. Print out Prozacks picture and show to a small weld shop. $5-10 would be fair, especially if you already drilled the hole.
This will probably draw some flack, but in MY opinion, if you properly tune and jet a Lectron it will idle at 1,600 rpm all day long. I rock crawl as well and need excellant throttle control, and the Lectron provides that.
If you set the lower end up a tad fat and the top end right on, the Lectron is very trail worthy. The keys for setting up the Lectron:
Moose thumb gives better leverage, twist works good.
a good quality throttle cable
leave 1/8" of slack on the cable
ensure the slide opens all the way
ensure the cable path doesn't bind up
1/2 turn on the metering rod is a lot. Never let the rod get much shorter than 2.000"
I can take the rpm up to 1,800rpm and slowly let off the clutch in the sand and motor pulls controllably fine.
obviously, your milage may vary.
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#16
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thanks for the info/link.
is that setup pretty good? seems pretty cost effective, being only 110 for everything? (thats using the bung and sensor they advertise on the display page, 70/30/10)
do u just run it off the key switch (so it only gets power when key is on?)
seems like it would be a pretty easy install.
so the ratio dosnt matter what engine/compression or anything, all engines operate best on the same fuel/air ratio?
hmmm 46hv is so tempting (mainly because its more power than 45, easier pull...im just worried about the low throttle stuff)
i just made a post about efi/shock decision (if i read enough people saying 46 is ok, maybe 46 and this sensor could get me going pretty good)
is that setup pretty good? seems pretty cost effective, being only 110 for everything? (thats using the bung and sensor they advertise on the display page, 70/30/10)
do u just run it off the key switch (so it only gets power when key is on?)
seems like it would be a pretty easy install.
so the ratio dosnt matter what engine/compression or anything, all engines operate best on the same fuel/air ratio?
hmmm 46hv is so tempting (mainly because its more power than 45, easier pull...im just worried about the low throttle stuff)
i just made a post about efi/shock decision (if i read enough people saying 46 is ok, maybe 46 and this sensor could get me going pretty good)
#17
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Regardless of carb choice, the o2 sensor is money well spent. Keep in mind if you don't order a spare bung, when you need it, it'll cost the $18 because of shipping. I ordered two extra just because. You can weld a bung on a bike and use a 18mm oil plug to seal it if you decide to move the o2 sensor.
I tapped into the wires going to the dash lights since the gauge doesn't draw much juice and the wires are easy to identify.
The only caveat to running an A/F gauge is fuel type, keep it at 100 octane or less and life is good.
I think the 46 got a bad rap from some less than stellar installs. Besides, the three YFZs I have ridden ALL had a stiffer stock thumb throttle, and caused my thumb to go numb within 20 minutes. Try to control the throttle with a numb thumb.
But, them YFZs are fast, fun wheelie machines....
The 46 was pricey, but to me, still qualifies as an excellant HP to $$ buy. EFI is the way to go, just the $$ are out of my reach.
D/S -- 195 main, dynojet??
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I tapped into the wires going to the dash lights since the gauge doesn't draw much juice and the wires are easy to identify.
The only caveat to running an A/F gauge is fuel type, keep it at 100 octane or less and life is good.
I think the 46 got a bad rap from some less than stellar installs. Besides, the three YFZs I have ridden ALL had a stiffer stock thumb throttle, and caused my thumb to go numb within 20 minutes. Try to control the throttle with a numb thumb.
But, them YFZs are fast, fun wheelie machines....
The 46 was pricey, but to me, still qualifies as an excellant HP to $$ buy. EFI is the way to go, just the $$ are out of my reach.
D/S -- 195 main, dynojet??
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#18
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why the extra bungs, just in case you move the relocate the sensor?
the more i gather info and post about EFI the more excited i get. I swear i have spent 10% of my time around my quad doing maintenance. (mostly tuning) and its when i get fedup with jetting, that i dont have time to clean it. (and nobody likes putting there 7k dollar toy away dirty...)
i could see the 195 main... hes in AZ, and with his mods and no lidi can see it. how would he piston/cams affect fuel? i assume more compression/power is gonna be more fuel. I run a 175 (mikuni) @ 800 ft.
the more i gather info and post about EFI the more excited i get. I swear i have spent 10% of my time around my quad doing maintenance. (mostly tuning) and its when i get fedup with jetting, that i dont have time to clean it. (and nobody likes putting there 7k dollar toy away dirty...)
i could see the 195 main... hes in AZ, and with his mods and no lidi can see it. how would he piston/cams affect fuel? i assume more compression/power is gonna be more fuel. I run a 175 (mikuni) @ 800 ft.
#19
#20