I have been trying to get the slide to operate smoothly on my Lectron 46. With the motor off it will move smoothly with no hang-ups. When it starts up there is a significant amount of resistance on the pull AND the return. Upon closer inspection of the sides of the slide, it has medium to deep scrapes / gouges from use which I’m sure is the cause of the problem in conjunction with the vacuum placed on the slide while the motor is running. OK so its not the end of the world and I’m not about to give up on my carb as it does provide the horse power that it promises!

For those of you that have dialed it in and have done polishing to the slides can ya help a brother out with some ideas ?

Would anybody know what a new slide costs as this might end up being the way to solve it? Its Monday and R-R isn’t open to ask….

Thanks Guys !

 

Prozack, I hope everything else is going well. As far as the slide issue goes...

That is the "stuck shut" problem that many talk about. Many people speak about it like it's not there..... I think that they're synapses aren't all firing. That is the prime reason I sold the carb. The way that Randal tried to help me fix it was to make it supper rich at idle and then bump up the slide accordingly. The idea is that the farther up the slide is, the less suction there will be against the slide - ie. a bigger gap at the bottom of the slide. I tried that - I thought that it sucked. Mario worked on it quite abit and we got it pretty good. Certainly no big deal at all for hill shooting, but for my needs (which were tight trails, carving dunes, and slow crawling as well as hill shooting) the carb wouldn't work. I didn't make that a secret though. I still feel like it's a wicked carb for hill shooting and most dune applications. And when you use the twist, it's even less of a problem in the dunes. For trails though, it kind of sucks.

Good luck on the stuck shut issue, and let me know if I can be of any further help.

 

Hey Whats up BD ? Thanks , Yea in theory that sounds like a good fix .. BUT.. I really think the scarring in the slide makes this problem bigger than it should be. I dont know but if i were to get it back to "smooth" Im almost positive that the effect the drag would be reduced big time. Thats really what Im after right now. I can get a stronger spring to help out so long as it smooths out in the "sticky" department. I aint giving up yet..

Before I sent my DS in for some work and got the Lectron on there and re-set the needle for my set up there was no doubt a increase in power. I just got it back after having the head ported & polished W/ porting to the intake and port match to the head. 12:1 piston and dyno tune which got me an extra 8hp. Not bad. But in this state of tune theres too much pressure on the slide. time will tell.

 

Yea, I know what you are saying about the slide and smoothness. However, if it becomes too smooth it could make it even worse. Kind of the same idea with air flow. Air travels worse over a mirror than it does if it's ruffed up abit. Who knows, maybe you'll find the trick. If you do get it worked out, don't be amazed if it's a 2 or 3 time a year thing until you don't have any slide left. That just the way that carb is designed.

Be real trick and install a set of tiny, tiny roller bearings behind the slide [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Then all your problems will be fixed........ What will cook your noodle is whether or not it will still have the "stuck shut" right off the bottom. You'll still have the same amount of suction.

"I aint giving up yet" - been there done that. What I really wanted was an extra slide or two to do some developement on the slide itself. I still feel that some work can be done on the air flow into the slide. You'll notice to small wholes at the top of the slide. Those wholes are at an angle. Eric puts those wholes into to relieve some of the stuck shut issues. The wholes at an angle still allow for some "suck shut". I think a few wholes in the area of the slide contact points might prove to be beneficial. Not on the same line as the contact points themselves, but just to the side. This would also help the issue of bottoming out the idle screw when making it so rich to combat the "suck shut". I offered the ideas to Randal at the time I was going through it, and he told me that it had already had been tried. That's where I got the above info on the little wholes. I still think that I could make it work...... [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

let us know what you find.

 

I too thought I was experiencing the stuck shut problem when I first installed the carb. The problem ended up being that the cable was not pulling the slide directly up. Instead it was pulling a a angle forcing the slide to rub. We figured this out after much filing on the slide. Most likely the slide is not sticking but I could be wrong.

 

I thought about the tiny bearings on the slide too. I am sure the vendors have as well. maybe they could be machined in to the slide.

 

Jobber, trust me, his carb isn't hanging up..... how do I know - It was my carb.

He's got the Eric's best cable (which Randal and I agreed - is far from great), and it was already polished a couple of times. The scaring he is talking about comes from normal use..... I think a new slide and some R&D is what will ultimately make this carb the VERY BEST on the market for our DS's. Trust me, I learned from the LECTRON Vice PRES herself, how much Eric has put into this carb. This is still the carb to have when drag racing - no question about it. Just don't know if it will ever be THE all-around carb.

Time will tell

hey Bus- Wouldn't that be sweet! Needle bearings aren't the easiest task, but certainly would be nice. Question would be how to keep the bearings greased and away from raw fuel. It may not be needed or have to be worried about, however an important thought.

BigD out

 

I had one of these carb as well. And for drag racing it is the best. But for trail riding which I do most of the time it would not work for me. But I do have to say the power this carb makes is incredible.

 

You guys are reading my mind !! Ive been searching the web and have found a few places that sell bearings 3mm od W 1mm bores. a set of bearings could be cut into the slide and run a 1mm pin in there to keep them in place. I could get them for 2.00 apiece and god knows how much for the machine work. If this will work then this will be the god of all carbs !!!! A tad chaper that EFI ....hmmmm.
The slide is 3mm+/- at the side flanges so there would be room to off set the pin from the centerline. The carb if I remember right can be broken into two parts and if needed a notch/ channel can be milled in to get the propper depth of the bearing to ride in. I was thinking that a 1mm deep by 2mm wide would do the trick.

How does that sound ? Are we on to something or ? Any Ideas or comments??

 

sounds good. how many bearings? where would you place them on the slide? should there be any bearings on the side of the slide? you know, facing out towards the side of the quad? or just facing forward? could you machine it out by hand?