actually i think his name was randall very very very nice guy, i told him i was gonna stay with my stock carb get a mrhp endcap, ported intake and i do alot of trail riding he suggested i get the 11.2:1 piston kit rings gaskets etc for base and head with wrist pin and circlips for 302.00, but then i need to use premium gas which i guess is not that bad lol he answered all my questions what a nice guy, he also told me he has a trail cam kit for something like $295.00 which i might get next summer, he said i would not have any prblems with my stay bolts head gaskets or anything he really sounded like he knew his stuff i was very impressed, so my question is does anyone on here have a 11.2:1 piston in there ds and what do they think of it? the 11.2:1 piston is looking really good over the stock piston any suggestions?

 

I used to run the Pami 11:1 and was very happy with it. Know guys that run the Ron Wood, etc., etc. Unless your running Nitrous I would say one 11:1 piston is about the same as another. Go with who you are comfortable working with AND remember if you ever go further, it is best to stay with one builder. Sounds like you can get the 11:1 for about the same as the stocker. Don't take this wrong but. . . DUH! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Most people do the cams at the same time and the difference between a bike with cams (more aggressive than your selection), piston, valve springs, port work is 1/4 of the hill (THAT'S HUGE!)

For you! I wouldn't suggest anything on the cams. The piston will give you overall power increase. If you do anything with the cam do it NOW and go aggressive. The higher compression piston will give more overall power but, the cam will take away bottom end power. Net result, you will have more power down low than you have now but, your top end will be off the charts. If you do the cams later you could be disappointed with the low end loss but, who knows - that's a guess.

For you, I'ld just go with the piston.

 

thanks dune me, i was just reading alot of past posts about guys reusing headstud nuts, not to reuse them, another guy says he used his 5 times with the same head gasket, anoher says if you use the same heand bolts dont torque over something like34 ft lbs, who is right?

 

Exactly!

 

I've got his 11:1 piston and trail cams. They run real good together. Kinda wish I had done them at different times to see what provided the cool kick.

I heard a very light ping once, so I splash in 20% 100 octane with my premium. The ping occurred in early September at Dumont, and some folks say its to hot to ride then.....

Not sure if MrHP is telling folks a different number, but when I got mine, he wrote on the install sheet to torque main bolts to 37ft lbs. Secondary bolts to 21.

I was looking in the book while doing the install, and started to follow it. I think it says 40ft lbs. One of the head bolts felt like it was pulling. Then it made a popping sound and made me think I pulled the threads out of the case. Luckily, the threads pulled out of the head nut. Dangest thing, never had that much good luck before, probably never happen again. Got a new nut and torqued to 37 just fine.

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I reuse the stock nuts as long as the threads look good. If you see some wear just replace with a new one. For some reason the Bombardier manual calls for 44ft lbs but the BMW manual calls for 37ft lbs. I use the 37ft lb reading because that is the same torque spec used on a Honda 10mm stud. Outer waterjacket bolts torque at 22-24ft lbs. If your at 21 it should still be fine.

When a bolt is torqued properly it becomes "stretched" to a certain deminsion. If over torqued it is stretched too far and actually looses its ability to hold tension.

 

MisterHP. Are the 730's ready?

 

I like the HP #'s on your new dyno sheets on your picture page! WOW!

 

Those #'s are on race gas correct?

 

I have several 800 and 730 cylinders in my shop right now. I'm just checking all deminsions making sure everything is perfect.

Country its on 110 race gas.