VALVE SPRING REPLACEMENT
#1
VALVE SPRING REPLACEMENT
I'm planning to replace the valve springs to a shim under kit when I replace the piston and cams. Is there a special tool needed to do the spring replacement? and if so where can I get it?
I'm getting the shim under valve spring kit from MrHP along with the HR3 Cams and the 12:1 piston. I will be getting the gaskets needed to reduce the compression to 11:1 so I can use pump gas.
Other then the piston ring clamp, TDC bolt, feeler gauges and torque wrenches are there any other tools I will need other then the basic?
I'm getting the shim under valve spring kit from MrHP along with the HR3 Cams and the 12:1 piston. I will be getting the gaskets needed to reduce the compression to 11:1 so I can use pump gas.
Other then the piston ring clamp, TDC bolt, feeler gauges and torque wrenches are there any other tools I will need other then the basic?
#3
VALVE SPRING REPLACEMENT
you don't need a ring compressor, the bottom of the cylinder skirt is beveled and your fingers can easily slip the rings in.
you will need a valve spring compressor, and not all typical automotive ones will due, if you have one you can try it and maybe rig it up to work with a littel inginuity, but the ideal tool may cost more than what a local shop might charge to swap them for you real quick so it may be worth checking around a little. if you do it yourself be certain to get the keepers all the way in the grooves right and check all 4 for equality afterwards.
the shim under kit offers added security in the event of overrev that can cause valve float, as well as piece of mind knowing in the event of some catastrophic failure like a vlave spring breaking or something wild like that, the shim is trapped under the bucket instead of being able to come out and bounce around the head doing further damage to cams and stuff.
FYI I have the shim under kit from Web, had to have shims custom ground at a machine shop to attain proper gap, because Web's manufacturing was off. The head was new with no valve or seat wear, and had the most common shims in from factory, so I know it was web's fault. This was a couple years ago, not sure if they still make them this way, but the bucket were thicker on top than the stockers, requiring a thinner shim, and the thinnest one made was still a couple thousandths too thick! Not a big deal really, but turns out that having a machine shop grind shims on a magnetic base to needed thickness is cheaper than buying new ones, so actually it was a win win situation.
you will need a valve spring compressor, and not all typical automotive ones will due, if you have one you can try it and maybe rig it up to work with a littel inginuity, but the ideal tool may cost more than what a local shop might charge to swap them for you real quick so it may be worth checking around a little. if you do it yourself be certain to get the keepers all the way in the grooves right and check all 4 for equality afterwards.
the shim under kit offers added security in the event of overrev that can cause valve float, as well as piece of mind knowing in the event of some catastrophic failure like a vlave spring breaking or something wild like that, the shim is trapped under the bucket instead of being able to come out and bounce around the head doing further damage to cams and stuff.
FYI I have the shim under kit from Web, had to have shims custom ground at a machine shop to attain proper gap, because Web's manufacturing was off. The head was new with no valve or seat wear, and had the most common shims in from factory, so I know it was web's fault. This was a couple years ago, not sure if they still make them this way, but the bucket were thicker on top than the stockers, requiring a thinner shim, and the thinnest one made was still a couple thousandths too thick! Not a big deal really, but turns out that having a machine shop grind shims on a magnetic base to needed thickness is cheaper than buying new ones, so actually it was a win win situation.
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#7
VALVE SPRING REPLACEMENT
hey scoundrel when i put my new piston in i put big thick zip tie around my oil rings and used the flat end of a 6 inch hard plastic ruler kinda like kids have for school, i tried my fingers but no luck, letting it slide down easy till it got to the oil rings wirth the zip tie on then slide it down slowly went on good, dont forget to cut the zip tie once the piston is in, others on here have used a greased hose clamp but i was worried a bout scratching my piston, unless you could use a automotive ting compressor and put it on the piston and rings and push the piston down into the jugg from the top till the wrist pine hole sticks out enough to push the pin in,cause what is the bore on a chevy 350 like 4 inches right sameas our pistons? just my .02 cents
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#8
#9
VALVE SPRING REPLACEMENT
Originally posted by: Oldmanracing
Lube piston, rings and shim stock with assembly lube
Lube piston, rings and shim stock with assembly lube
When I was putting my engine together, Eric told me not to use assembly lube on the piston, rings or cylinder wall. Something about not haveing the rings break in right. I am sure there is more then one way to do it, as with anything.