NOs
#11
07-17-2005, 08:52 PM
NOs
Heres my .02. I have read quite bit on this topic and have came to the conclusion that a wet system would be alot better and safer in the long run. The boondocker kit works by spraying into the air box or snorkle. pressurizing the bowl so that it feeds more fuel when spraying.so it doesnt lean out. My thought on this is how long can you spray before the bowl emptys and your motor goes bang? I know that the boondocker is alot simpler to set up, but I dont think I would take the chance.
#12
07-17-2005, 10:41 PM
NOs
Scatterbrain,
If you've built your motor to the point where the stock carb size is not enough, the boondockers wouldn't be a good system, but then neither would any other systems that didn't sniff the fuel mix and coordinate the NOx accordingly via computer control. Again, if you are having issues now with the bowl running out of gas, the boondockers would not be good. However, if you have a stock motor with a stock carb, or a built motor with a larger carb, you should'nt have issues with the bowl running dry. The Boondockers kit comes with two spray sizes. I suggest starting with the small one, and (as boondockers also recommends) running a shot for no more than 7 seconds at a time.
If you've built your motor to the point where the stock carb size is not enough, the boondockers wouldn't be a good system, but then neither would any other systems that didn't sniff the fuel mix and coordinate the NOx accordingly via computer control. Again, if you are having issues now with the bowl running out of gas, the boondockers would not be good. However, if you have a stock motor with a stock carb, or a built motor with a larger carb, you should'nt have issues with the bowl running dry. The Boondockers kit comes with two spray sizes. I suggest starting with the small one, and (as boondockers also recommends) running a shot for no more than 7 seconds at a time.
#13
07-17-2005, 11:20 PM
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NOs
Originally posted by: OregonDunePatrol
Scatterbrain,
If you've built your motor to the point where the stock carb size is not enough, the boondockers wouldn't be a good system, but then neither would any other systems that didn't sniff the fuel mix and coordinate the NOx accordingly via computer control. Again, if you are having issues now with the bowl running out of gas, the boondockers would not be good. However, if you have a stock motor with a stock carb, or a built motor with a larger carb, you should'nt have issues with the bowl running dry. The Boondockers kit comes with two spray sizes. I suggest starting with the small one, and (as boondockers also recommends) running a shot for no more than 7 seconds at a time.
Scatterbrain,
If you've built your motor to the point where the stock carb size is not enough, the boondockers wouldn't be a good system, but then neither would any other systems that didn't sniff the fuel mix and coordinate the NOx accordingly via computer control. Again, if you are having issues now with the bowl running out of gas, the boondockers would not be good. However, if you have a stock motor with a stock carb, or a built motor with a larger carb, you should'nt have issues with the bowl running dry. The Boondockers kit comes with two spray sizes. I suggest starting with the small one, and (as boondockers also recommends) running a shot for no more than 7 seconds at a time.
#14
07-18-2005, 12:07 AM
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#15
07-18-2005, 12:11 AM
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#16
07-18-2005, 10:59 AM
NOs
Originally posted by: choosetolose04
So, if Im running my stock motor with a 48HV Lectron, I should not have any problems with the bowl going dry in 300' right? So, intern the Boondockers should be more than safe for me to operate right?
Originally posted by: OregonDunePatrol
Scatterbrain,
If you've built your motor to the point where the stock carb size is not enough, the boondockers wouldn't be a good system, but then neither would any other systems that didn't sniff the fuel mix and coordinate the NOx accordingly via computer control. Again, if you are having issues now with the bowl running out of gas, the boondockers would not be good. However, if you have a stock motor with a stock carb, or a built motor with a larger carb, you should'nt have issues with the bowl running dry. The Boondockers kit comes with two spray sizes. I suggest starting with the small one, and (as boondockers also recommends) running a shot for no more than 7 seconds at a time.
Scatterbrain,
If you've built your motor to the point where the stock carb size is not enough, the boondockers wouldn't be a good system, but then neither would any other systems that didn't sniff the fuel mix and coordinate the NOx accordingly via computer control. Again, if you are having issues now with the bowl running out of gas, the boondockers would not be good. However, if you have a stock motor with a stock carb, or a built motor with a larger carb, you should'nt have issues with the bowl running dry. The Boondockers kit comes with two spray sizes. I suggest starting with the small one, and (as boondockers also recommends) running a shot for no more than 7 seconds at a time.
choosetolose04,
If you do a little homework, you wont have any problem.
1) Start with the small spray
2) Standard bowl, standard motor - built motor, big bowl
3) Never more than a seven second shot
4) Step up your octane in your fuel
5) Step down one on your plug to a cooler one
#17
07-18-2005, 11:56 AM
NOs
I think the Boondocker is ok for basic setup's but not much more than that. I feel that when your injecting something into your motor that is as potent as N20 you shouldn't take chances. I want to know without a shadow of a doubt that when I hit that button, fuel is getting in the motor in the proper ratio that it should be with the nitrous. With a system like Holley/NOS and NX you can fine tune the system to the shot you want. For instance, you may need to step to a 6 number spacing instead of the standerd four spacing, or even more for the really high shots or more. This especially becomes crutial when you start getting into the larger shot sizes and dual stage setup's. When your serious into drag racing you want to know that everytime you hit that button your getting that same shot everytime. There are to many variables every time you hit that button with the Boondocker.
I will admit that the wet systems do have more components but any competant installer should be able to easily install them to safely operate for years. Components can and do fail. Nitrous is extremely dangerous stuff, and when your running it you should be constantly testing and checking your components, clean your lines out, and checking connections. Drag racers go over their cars hundreds of times and when your getting serious enough to add N20 to your quad, you should have that same dedication. In the short time I had my system, I made a few mistakes. Thank goodness none were really serious.
Each system has there plusses and minuses. The boondocker is simple and cheaper, the wet systems are far more precise and tunable.
The biggest mistakes I see people make when using N20 are:
Not having proper guages or placing them where they are actually useful.
Not taking their time to make the wiring absolutley bulletproof
Not going from a DR8EA to a DR9EA or DR10EA sparkplug
Not running high enough octane
Not doing regular system maintenance
Not using a bottle heater, This is crutial for consistant runs.
Not bringing enough N20!!!
People want to know why Jeff is so fast, I can tell ya! He does what he should do. He would also be the first one to tell you that a big shot is not as easy to do as what you would think.
So thats my .03 worth.
Again, the Boondocker is not a bad system at all, I just take N20 very seriously and want total control, therefore I would not use it.
I will admit that the wet systems do have more components but any competant installer should be able to easily install them to safely operate for years. Components can and do fail. Nitrous is extremely dangerous stuff, and when your running it you should be constantly testing and checking your components, clean your lines out, and checking connections. Drag racers go over their cars hundreds of times and when your getting serious enough to add N20 to your quad, you should have that same dedication. In the short time I had my system, I made a few mistakes. Thank goodness none were really serious.
Each system has there plusses and minuses. The boondocker is simple and cheaper, the wet systems are far more precise and tunable.
The biggest mistakes I see people make when using N20 are:
Not having proper guages or placing them where they are actually useful.
Not taking their time to make the wiring absolutley bulletproof
Not going from a DR8EA to a DR9EA or DR10EA sparkplug
Not running high enough octane
Not doing regular system maintenance
Not using a bottle heater, This is crutial for consistant runs.
Not bringing enough N20!!!
People want to know why Jeff is so fast, I can tell ya! He does what he should do. He would also be the first one to tell you that a big shot is not as easy to do as what you would think.
So thats my .03 worth.
Again, the Boondocker is not a bad system at all, I just take N20 very seriously and want total control, therefore I would not use it.
#18
07-18-2005, 01:34 PM
NOs
DemonDS
There definately are some very precise, computer controlled systems out there. The Boondocker system works a lot differently than the others. With boondocker, the bottle pressure regulates the additional fuel flow - no pressure, no additional gas. High bottle pressure, additional gas to match - once its set up, you cant get a into lean or rich situation. Intitial NOx pressure to the manifold is set up at installation. Once its set up, your done! And yes, larger shots of NOx (and matching gas) can be added by changing out the spray nozzle to a larger one - there are two nozzle sizes with each kit, and even more available. Further, the NOx is placed in the airbox, air filter, or air tube on the Boondocker system. This further eliminates a "lean" or "rich" condition by forcing the carb to act as the gate keeper. If you put the NOx between the motor and the carb, guess what gets to the motor first? Lean fuel!
On the other systems, you need bottle blankets and guages. Bottle blankets dont work very well even if you have them, they keep them warm, but dont do a very good job and keeping them cool. So, if your bottle is hot and you are over pressure, you have to bleed it off until the pressure is right or find another bottle thats cool. The pressure regulating system on the Boondocker nixes the need for this because its the bottle pressure that keeps the additional gas in check. Not much need for a guage here is there? Now, you can get a gauge to determine what your boost will be, but you dont need one to be safe - thats the difference.
Don't let is simple design fool you. You can make this system as aggressive as you want.
There definately are some very precise, computer controlled systems out there. The Boondocker system works a lot differently than the others. With boondocker, the bottle pressure regulates the additional fuel flow - no pressure, no additional gas. High bottle pressure, additional gas to match - once its set up, you cant get a into lean or rich situation. Intitial NOx pressure to the manifold is set up at installation. Once its set up, your done! And yes, larger shots of NOx (and matching gas) can be added by changing out the spray nozzle to a larger one - there are two nozzle sizes with each kit, and even more available. Further, the NOx is placed in the airbox, air filter, or air tube on the Boondocker system. This further eliminates a "lean" or "rich" condition by forcing the carb to act as the gate keeper. If you put the NOx between the motor and the carb, guess what gets to the motor first? Lean fuel!
On the other systems, you need bottle blankets and guages. Bottle blankets dont work very well even if you have them, they keep them warm, but dont do a very good job and keeping them cool. So, if your bottle is hot and you are over pressure, you have to bleed it off until the pressure is right or find another bottle thats cool. The pressure regulating system on the Boondocker nixes the need for this because its the bottle pressure that keeps the additional gas in check. Not much need for a guage here is there? Now, you can get a gauge to determine what your boost will be, but you dont need one to be safe - thats the difference.
Don't let is simple design fool you. You can make this system as aggressive as you want.
#19
07-18-2005, 04:19 PM
NOs
This is as good as Holley vs Quadrajet! Its going to come down to opinion. But I ask all of you, if anyone has ran over two hundred pounds of nitrous through there bikes with only one burned plug, and that being caused by my trying to go to the edge? Not many, so if like Demon said, and by the way, Demon I'm still waiting for you to come see me, you want total control, buy a wet system, a bottle heater, all your gauges and whatever it is you need, so you can have the total control. If you want a proven system that just works, and dont want all that stuff well then you know the answer. Again any takers on the two hundred pounds, same motor? Oh and still running strong, just yesterday had 10lbs through her. And while I dont condone this, as you should go along with manufacturers specs, SEVEN SECONDS? Thats like putting it in one inch and pulling it out and calling it done! The longest run I have is about 18 seconds, but make sure you got it right, cause she's hot by the top.
#20
07-18-2005, 06:59 PM
