CAN-AM (BRP) Discussions about CAN-AM ATVs.

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  #11  
Old 12-30-2005, 05:27 PM
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Cams are one component in the air movement process. It starts at the filter, snorkel, carb, intake, intake port, intake valves, combustion chamber, exhaust valves, exhaust port, head pipe and finally the silencer. The shape of the cams determine how far the valves open and how long they remain open (lift & duration).

Ok, the idea is to move as much air through the motor as possible. The more air you can run through it, the more fuel you can add and still maintain optimal mixture for combustion. More air = more power. (Some could get into a more complicated discussion as to how you might get by with less air volume if you can make it go through faster but lets not complicate things). All of the components I listed above must work well together and have similar goals and capabilities. If you leave a stock carb and go with huge airflow on the rest of the components, the carb is a bottle neck that will not allow you to know the potential of your new high dollar cams or any of the other changes you made. The guys who's cams were the bottle neck that slowed airflow will tout the greatest gains from changing their cams.

The point is we have all had a different experience with cams and porting and carbs and so on because we have all done it in a different order and have used different combinations of componentry. I hated my web 109's. They did not match my porting so the bottom end power was almost non existent. That is not to say they won't work well on your bike. I would hold out for advice that tells you to get with someone who has a lot of testing experience on different combinations of components and have them match a cam that will work the best in conjunction with your other mods.

If you plan to do anything major in the near future that changes your power output like carb or a port job or 730 kit or something like that, hold off on changing your cams and get them optimized to those mods.

If a builder doesn't ask you in detail about your setup before recommending a cam. Find someone else because he is more interested in selling a cam than making your bike go fast. I would call Randall at HPR and try what he recommends.

Ron
 
  #12  
Old 12-30-2005, 05:56 PM
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DSnut, ok that helps. So I really want to wait on cams, as I still want a higher compression piston, head porting and such also...so that would make a difference in what cam would help me the most?
 
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Old 12-30-2005, 06:31 PM
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I know this thread is about Cams, so all the Cam info is great. DSNUT is exactly right on his theory about cams but it is nessassary to know that also Timing,gearing,fuel,and compression can all change the Power of the motor and its power delivery. That is one reason why the "search" for power is an on-going struggle for 50+ years of hot-rodding. With every ONE change made, the WHOLE motor will need to be biultand adjusted around it all over again to get maximum gain from that one change. The trick is WHERE do you start from? Do you biuld your motor around your carb? your Cams? your bore size and compression? This is why most folks will ask " what do you want out of your quad?" ,and "What kind of riding do you do? ".


Its never ending man, the struggle most all biulders have to deal with is making a motor package that will DUNE/TRAIL great, but still DRAG with the banshee's. its two bad we can't all afford to have two DS's both puposly biult for their own thing



Bigger.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
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Old 12-30-2005, 06:50 PM
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Its never ending man, the struggle most all biulders have to deal with is making a motor package that will DUNE/TRAIL great, but still DRAG with the banshee's. its two bad we can't all afford to have two DS's both puposly biult for their own thing

Bigger.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][/quote]

Now that would be a great thing.

So what I am basically getting is you can get some improvments with the "shelf" items out there, but you may sacrifice what you really want out of your ride. Of course the "shelf" items are not as hard on your piggie bank. The best bang is gonna cost ya!
 
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Old 12-30-2005, 06:57 PM
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So what I am basically getting is you can get some improvments with the "shelf" items out there, but you may sacrifice what you really want out of your ride. Of course the "shelf" items are not as hard on your piggie bank. The best bang is gonna cost ya!



Well, not nessassarily, the shelf items are great products, The dilema is do YOU want to be the one that takes the time to figure exactly what you need, and install all the parts yourself? OR is it worth the extra money to explain to a Biulder exactly what you want,and let them handle all the work for you,and you just write the check.



Bigger.
 
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Old 12-30-2005, 07:02 PM
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Originally posted by: biggerisbetter
So what I am basically getting is you can get some improvments with the "shelf" items out there, but you may sacrifice what you really want out of your ride. Of course the "shelf" items are not as hard on your piggie bank. The best bang is gonna cost ya!



Well, not nessassarily, the shelf items are great products, The dilema is do YOU want to be the one that takes the time to figure exactly what you need, and install all the parts yourself? OR is it worth the extra money to explain to a Biulder exactly what you want,and let them handle all the work for you,and you just write the check.



Bigger.
That is going to depend on the size of the check they want [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
  #17  
Old 12-30-2005, 07:53 PM
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Pay me, Pay ME! Wait .... I dont do that anymore! LOL


Seriously, pick up the phone, call Randall, then call Jeff, then Call Elliott. Read all the posts on this subject. And then make your own decision 2 days after you do all that. I made my decision and I was happy with it - but that doesnt mean thats correct for everyone. Because unless you are truely sold on what you buy (custom or off the shelf) you will always wonder if you truley got what you wanted.
 
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Old 12-30-2005, 07:57 PM
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I can tell you that I tried some 109's that were re-degree'd from Mario's old motor. They were re-degree'd to work on a TVI head that had been cut down. Basically retarding the intake and exhaust to the point at which as soon as you hit about 8250 or so, they completely fell on their face. My 110 intake and stock exhaust were much better. That said, Mario's re-degreed 109's with his head and old jug were straight SICK!!!!!! That TVI head re-worked by the preacher was NASTY.

I now run the HPR3 cams and love them. VERY smooth all the way through the power band and they don't seem to have a flat spot all the way up to 8K. The motor peaks at about 6800 not and stays there until 7600! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

my torque is within 2ftlbs over almost 2000rpms (5200 - 7200). Kind of hard to beat that.

What our Brothers have been saying previously is right on. Your provider should be asking you the particulars of your bike and type of riding. I would have love to gone with some HPR4 or HPR4 nitrous cams. But my physical size would have left those cams lacking on the bottom end. Be careful and talk to the people who are selling them. If they aren't asking the right questions, you may need to move on.

Just my 2 pennies.

Good luck Dragon.

BD
 
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