Read the threads, Procom is the cheapest and I had good luck with it, Big Gun is a bit higher and I hear good things, then Ron Wood, The Vortex is programable and pricey, I just got 1 myself and will be seling my Procom, havent heard much on the MSD, BS nut has one.

 

As most will tell you, the Procomm is a risk. If you do a search you will read about the horror stories. Whether they say they have fixed it or not, I wouldn't take the chance.

I personally run a Vortex and it seems to be trouble free and considering its capabilities and programability it is very inexpensive at about $369. DragonDJ11 can tell you where to get one at that price.

I had a Big Gun on my old DS. It worked great as long as you don't have cams requiring you to rev beyond 8750 rpm. If you are running stock cams, the Big Gun is the best bang for your buck.

Do a search on CDI's. When it comes to reliability of parts, I would find out what kind of luck the majority of people are having with the different options. If your CDI gives you trouble, it can cost you far more than the price of a good CDI[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

In my opinion though, if you are running stock cams.........I wouldn't change the cdi. There is no need to rev past the 7750 or 7900 that your stock box will allow you to and the change of the curve does not add much power if any all by itself...........that I could tell. If you want more power for $500, buy an endcap and a K&N filter, remove the airbox lid. You should still have $340. I would be tempted to buy a really good set of tires that perform the best for your riding area. Do OMR's stock carb mods and make sure it is dialed in well and you will have a hot bolt-on DS.

 

Nate the last time I was at Badlands they had a sign up saying it was coming, have not heard what limit will be yet.

HMF is not as loud as stock muffler with open end cap, and also the HMF has an optional $20 insert to lower sound if needed, and also removable sparky screen for if you go to Michigan dunes. I ride my HMF at michigan dunes all the time, sound without the insert is never a problem. you can pick your color. its about the most versatile open end pipe out there having the sound insert and sparky screen, all removable. having them means you will never be turned down at any ride park. and its stainless with aluminum muffler so it won't go to crap in your wet envorinment, like ceramic coated plain steel pipes do. JMHO.

great increase in bottom end power, easier wheelies, with HMF. I've owned White Bros. and Yoshimura, the HMF has better bottom end than any of them.

 

Alright cool,but without rejetting it will pop right.Im no mechanic so if it pops i will have to pay someone to do it.And as far as stuff i have now i have a K&n and outerwears,ams sidewinder paddles.And thats it.But the slip on sounds good its cheap too.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

About the cdi's the reason why i wanted one was it seems i hit the rev limiter ofter 1-2-3gear,maybe im not used to it yet.

 

With the new found bottom end power of the slip-on, you can shift earlier. Stock cams have peak hp at around 6200 to 6500 rpm. I know what you mean though, the way the DS makes power you just want to keep revving but it really does drop off after about 6500 pretty quickly.

HMF is a fine pipe and it does make good bottom end. We will help you through the rejetting process. It is a piece of cake once you try it[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Get this done and try short shifting (shifting at about 7000 rpm). You will be amazed at how much performance you pick up[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Good luck man!

 

I never did rejet when i got my pipe. (but i should've) My DS has seems to run very smooth. Idunno if that has to do with my elevation or temp.

Without the aftermarketCDI i could not jump in 3rd as effective. I would be bouncing off of the rev limiter. 4th is not torqueee enough and i would nose drive into the ground. With the aftermarket CDI i was allowed to stay in 3rd with the extra RPM's

 

alright thanks for the advice,i will try the shifting at 7000rpm.

 

I would just start out with the simple stuff and build up you said you were getting sprockets which will change how it rides(torque/top end depending on how many teeth)...You have the filter so I would get a good exhuast I would recommend the hmf if you are looking for a good sounding pipe and the stock head pipe should do the job its pretty good until it start to rust...then jet to make sure you won't be off with the carb...then if you have money left get yourself some hpr machined hubs and the thing should flie...hey dsnut what happened to my thread was it deleted

 

also maybe a ported intake depending on how far you wanna go