Okay I went thru two of these. Anyone ever break the teeth off these buggers? I have some Pami 40% stronger springs. I'm starting to wonder if that is what is causing these to break. As soon as I pull the clutch lever in I heard the teeth breaking noise. Any ideas?? I haven't ridden my DS in months trying to figure this problem out. Thanks in advance.

 

Bummer!

I've gone through a few of them in the past. Easy to break them if you bind them up on installation of the clutch-cover.

May want to try replacing the one in the clutch basket as well as the one that is the PASS-THROUGH on the clutch-cover. In case there is any wear on one of them causing an issue???

Don't know what else to tell you?!?

I've been running the Pami springs for about 4-yrs now.

 

I've ordered two shafts and the piece that sits in the clutch basket. Dunme what did you use for that grease they recoomend. I dabbed a little of synthetic grease in there. This is getting really frustrating.

 

Make sure that the shafts are aligned perfectly on reassembly.Make sure that the shafts are aligned perfectly on reassembly.Make sure that the shafts are aligned perfectly on reassembly.Make sure that the shafts are aligned perfectly on reassembly. I run 80% pami's with no problems. Don't snap your clutch lever on release thart puts a lot of stress on cables and shafts, release it by hand, don't pull your hand off and let it snap back. The shaft can sometimes be re-indexed to work even with a few teeth gone. Missing a couple on Bomberboys.

 

I have angled the peice on the clutchbasket but there is no certain way to know it's in perfect alignment. I was thiking of that. I was wondering if I turned the clutch shaft 180 degress if it would still be usable. I will experiment with it today. I didn't snap the clutch lever, I just merely pulled it in. Once I pulled it made that crack. I will try your advice with the missing teeth solution. Will post results.

 

Put some grease at the base of the shaft coming out of the clutch to keep it from freely turning, hold your outer housing up against the mounting points and look at the angle of the actuator and match the inner shaft to it . When aligned proper it all goes together smooth. I f the clutch doesn't pull smoothly right off disassemble DON'T force it.

 

Okay I'm at wits end... I tried it several times last night and pull in the clutch and it doesn't feel right. WHen I pulled it off I realized I bent a a tooth on that clutch shaft. I have done this before but that clutch leverl still won't return to it's unengaged state. One more thing I forgot to mention I am using a Barnett 9 disc set up. I ordered all new parts, I was hoping I can experiment with the old stuff so I don't ruin any other parts when the new stuff comes in and get to ridig this thing already.

 

I found the new model parts are a little better. Is yours a 2000 or latter? I run Barnetts and Wood 60% and have never had any problems other than my own screw ups

 

Yeah mine is a 2000. How are newer parts better? If this new set fails I will order 04 or up.

 

Im just saying some of the newer models say for instance I had to order flywheel parts and the new ones were updated and slotted for weight reduction. It may not pertain to your situation and Im sure if the shaft was updated they would make the 00 part superceed but just to be safe I would order it from a newer model.