Setup the shocks based on your riding habits and habitat. A steering stabilizer is a good thing just to help keep the front end from jerking the bars out of your hands. I use a Denton brand. Just google "Denton Steering Stabilizer". They have the best price just buying direct as I recall.

 

2001 & 2002 DS650

SUSPENSION/TOE SETUP



Submitted by: Hightower (Chris)

This is going to be a long one.....but well worth the reading.....

Steering dampers are a great item, but they are built for all bikes for a purpose - to reduce "bump steer" - which is what happens when you hit an obstacle. They are great to have, but only a bandaid to the DS steering issue.

The DS's sensitive steering is from too little caster, as Tech Editor says. Too little caster makes the steering more sensitive, and is compounded by improper suspension and toe settings, as well as tires that suck. First you must set up the front and rear shocks for your weight, then correctly set the toe-out, and then if the budget allows get rid of the Dominators - all four - and get some real tires. Ohtsus, Holeshots, Razors, Bandits, etc.

Suspension -
REAR SAG should be 30% of shock travel (3.5"-4"). Lift rear bumper up until shock is fully extended, measure to floor, YOU get on the bike and measure again. Difference should be no more than 4", I like 3.5". Adjust preload on spring to achieve this. This will also keep the chain off the chain roller more often.

FRONT SAG should be about 20% of travel (2.5"-3"). Stretch out the shocks, measure from bumper to floor. YOU get on the bike, jump up and down and rock her back and forth a bit, sit down and have somebody measure again. Difference should be around 2.5"-3".

TOE - After the suspension is set, its time for toe. Toe must be measured with YOU on the seat. Have somebody measure across the front of the tires - center to center, then across the back of the tires - center to center. Measurements should be taken level with the spindles front and back. The difference is toe. Tie rods should adjusted to achieve TOE-OUT of no more than 1/8" (front measurement 1/8" more than rear measurement), and no less than neutral (equal).

After doing these things, you will feel a great improvement. Keep in mind that toe changes as suspension travels, so if you change the suspension set-up at any time, toe will need re-addressed. This is why you set up the suspension first.

Getting new tires will help even more - a rounder and softer front tire will improve things, and the larger the diameter of the front tire, the greater the increase in caster. At the same time, the larger the rear tire, the less caster you'll have. The guys that go with 22" rears are probably in more need of the a-arm fix, but definitely try the above set-up before you drop the dough.

After all the above you will undoubtedly love your bike much more. If its not quite enough for you taste or rider weight, then you'll need upper A-Arms. Stock caster is 5 degrees, ideally you would set the new arms from 7-9 degrees, but after doing the above steps for free, you may decide its good enough.

Additional notes by: Fourlix (Alex)

Many things will help, but nothing totally cures the twitchy steering except for a pair of aftermarket upper a-arms which increase caster to anywhere from 6 to 9 degrees. Bigger front tires help, steering stabilizers help, lowering the rear will help, dialing in your suspension, especially toe, will help. But nothing will fix the problem like fixing the problem, which is too little caster. Just do it.

 

MAN (ouch)!! my wrist hurts just thinking about it!!!! Get new upper arms and save a lot of pain

 

Does that set up apply to only 01 & 02's? Do the later models suffer from the same condition? With toe out, this means the tire will toe in as the suspension travels?

Thanks,

Ben

 

 

I see the ASR upper arms on ebay for $168 +shipping all the time. I think the stabilizer is $100+.

 

the upper a-arms are great, and a great buy. the ball joints will wear out and need replaced once in a while, but the ability to adjust the caster and camber to your liking is worth every penny. I run the uppers set at 8 degrees caster and 1/4" toe in and not only is handling much much better but bump steer is drastically reduced also. but if money is an obstacle, try the adjustments to at least make it a little better til you can aford them.

those directions above were written before the new a-arm style, I do not know what the caster is on the new setup. using neutral to 1/8" toe out is due to the 5 degree caster, but if the the new a-arms have a higher caster angle then a more desireable toe-in setting can be used, I just don't know what the new geometry is.

angle finders are cheap, and the ideal tool to use to measure caster (and camber). it is simply a plastic triangle with a self leveling protractor dial in the center that pints to the angle, they cost about $6 from Harbor Freight tool company, do a search for their website. stick it against the front of the knuckle centered on the upper and lower ball joints and whalla, instant caster angle readout. stick it against a brake rotor, level up and down, and instant camber angle.

 

so the newer ds has different A-arms? what year did they change??

 

I went with the ASR uppers, tie rods and a PEP stabilizer.
I set mt DS with 5deg caster and camber and a 1/4" toe in.
I just went off of the info I could find. Now I am reading a 9 deg setting is that number more ideal for the DS?
I ride in the dune most of the times.
Also when I did my set up my left side adjustments were way off from the right to get the same readings.
any help would be great.
Thanks.