Looking very interested in doing a conversion, but waiting for you to give me a price for some very detailed photos and very detailed measurements if you know what i mean. Have access to this business http://www.xtrememf.com
check out the bender its awsome, these guys will help me.

 

sounds like there will be a bunch of neat stuff up and runnin pretty soon . cant wait to see them. we need to get some pics posted here in this thread ! one thing I have learned after building these bikes for quite a while is that if you arent careful you will end up with a single purpose machine. you can go just a little to far with lightening or suspension parts or of course the motor and end up with something that is no longer duneable. if you want a hill race or flat drag only bike than by all means go super light with all the power you can squeeze out of it but if you want a fast hill bike that you can also dune ride all day you have to draw the line somewhere. I have a flat drag/hill race only bike in the shop already (my 1100 sno mo triple) and dont need another. of the 2 busa ds's Im currently starting , one will be a fully dressed non turboed ds with all the bells and whistles and will basically be very similar to my previous bikes with just a few upgrades here and there. the one Im building for me will me a turbed model with many changes from the last turbo bike but I assure you it will be 100% all day duneable. this one will also be alot nicer looking than the last bike. wish I could find another clean stock ds locally so that I could get started on them . doing 2 at a time is a first for me and should keep me pretty busy for a month or so. I have spent the last 6 days strait cleaning and organizing my shop(it was a mess LOL) and Im ready to roll once all my parts arrive.

 

I agree with you Gregg. The OEM chassis are setup for 45 - 50 hp, so to handle the 130 to 300 hp that we are putting in them, we bandaid a chassis that wasen't made for it by putting a longer swingarm on it. That does help some things but it hurts other things. For instance, my current conversion has a +10 swingarm which is minimum for the output but the longer the swingarm, the more weight it transfers to the front of the bike. Not only does that load up the front end which hurts dune handling, it unloads the back end which is also bad for dune handling. If you go much longer than +10, you will unload the backend so much it won't get acceptable weight transfer for launch when hill racing. If you have a burm to start on that will help, but if you are on flat surface, you will spin way too much.

A purpose built chassis is the way to solve these geometry problems. Based on the chassis design I have, 350 lbs is completely attainable and it will be stronger than any mild steel OEM chassis. Duning won't be a problem. Also, DS's aren't the only way to get good soft ride. The Ohlins suspension on my conversion ride better than my DS ever did. Good shocks, properly valved and sprung will become mandatory on any bike once you try them.

It is mostly the fact that these big horsepower 'Busa's weigh in at 550 lbs in a DS frame that caused me not to go that route. I go down into tree chutes where I have to stop and turn my bike around by hand, I have to make sure the bike won't pick up too much speed on the way down the chute (even a stock DS wants to run away from you when the sand is wet). Also, the lighter weight greatly reduces clutch stress and the number of paddles you have to run (because the weight is distributed more appropriately).

My current conversion works well but I know now what i would change. The first is overall weight, the second is weight distribution.

One last thing, for the guys who don't do their own fabrication, a rolling chassis built to hold your motor, mounts for your plastics and radiator can be done for around $4k - $5k. Having the chassis designed will do away with the problems found when attempting to mount the motor so the chain doesn't need awkward rollers or guides. The chassis guy works that out so you just install your motor and put a chain on it.

So lets say you have $4500 into the rolling chassis, $3k into a used 1000cc motor on ebay that is complete with fuel-injection, instrument cluster, wiring harness & computer, exhaust headers and stock cans (for sound check areas). $250 for plastics & seat, $500 for a suitable radiator and oversized fan, $350 into powdercoating, $1500 for good long travel shocks, $350 for a tank that fits under the plastics up front, $250 in Banshee brake parts and lines, $50 for a battery, $250 for exhaust fabrication, $300 in sprockets and chain and about $700 for tires and wheels.

That comes to about $12k. Keep about $2k in contingency for whatever and i think you will be alright.

My $0.02

 

well Im sure I speak for everyone when I say , show us a picture !

 

most of these guys have a ds and that soaks up alot of the initial expense and makes a project like this doable for them . having owned 4 +10 busa ds's I can tell you from experience that the big ds chassis still handles just fine after the transplant. also, a non turboed model with a +10 will lift the front end about 6 inches on a hard take off and hold it there untill you have to shift gears shift gears and about 1 out of 10 passes you will end up seeing clouds if you arent carefull . also, is this what you would call a purpose built chassis? notice the price tag. LOL CLICK HERE! would sure like to see a pic of your bike too. sounds cool.

 

That does say $79,999.00 right......yeah I thought so. Hell I will take two...

 

You have already seen the pictures of my current conversion, SST. You have told me on multiple occasions how crappy the R1 motor is.....I get it, you don't like it......I do and I am going to use it again.

You will see pictures of my new build (which is this one that I was simply contributing to your thread) in 2008 when I complete it.

Btw, instead of trying to discredit me or define my idea by posting pics of an outrageous build, why not ask me about the chassis I have planned and take my word for the cost of it. Rolling chassis that is purpose built for $4500....ready to bolt everything on. It will be cheaper and far better quality for the people who don't have the time or the tools or the skills to do their own fabrication.

 

jed its a busa motor custom chassis. 12 over front,and lower/smaller than the fireball bike. i over killed the chassis just a tad for a all out hillshooter,but i want it to handle the whoops at thunder without having to worry about tearing stuff up.goal weight ready to run with a full bottle sub 400lbs,so im using drag arms and such,but its designed for off the shelf parts for a popular model.

 

Yesssssssss..... I feel your hate .....young skywalker.... Damn RLarryCSwinger ,why dont you say what you feel? you been holdin that in long? dont know what I did to you and went back and read everything I just posted and see no reason for you to get your panties in a not. I dont know who you are and dont recall ever talking to you about ANYTHING. dont see a word anywhere in this thread about R1 motors and dont think if I have talked with you about them that I was making a personal attack on you by giving my opinion about them. if I dont like something I think I should be able to say so in a public forum anytime I please without hurting someones feelings .

"quote" Btw, instead of trying to discredit me or define my idea by posting pics of an outrageous build, why not ask me about the chassis I have planned and take my word for the cost of it. Rolling chassis that is purpose built for $4500....ready to bolt everything on. It will be cheaper and far better quality for the people who don't have the time or the tools or the skills to do their own fabrication."quote"

at no time did I say your chassis cost or would cost more than $4500 nor did I attept to discredit you or define anything. again, I have no idea who you are and dont care what you paid. as a matter of fact after going back and reading your second post in this forum it sounds as if you were hoping to belittle what I have and what I build .

"Quote""The OEM chassis are setup for 45 - 50 hp, so to handle the 130 to 300 hp that we are putting in them, we bandaid a chassis ". "A purpose built chassis is the way to solve these geometry problems."Based on the chassis design I have, 350 lbs is completely attainable and it will be stronger than any mild steel OEM chassis "The Ohlins suspension on my conversion ride better than my DS ever did" It is mostly the fact that these big horsepower 'Busa's weigh in at 550 lbs in a DS frame that caused me not to go that route""It will be cheaper and far better quality "quote"

You have now told me on multiple occasions RLarryCSwinger how crappy the ds/busa is.....I get it, you don't like it......I do and I am going to use it again. .....and I hope I run into you at any race hill on my crappy ill handling overweight poorly suspended week mild steel chasis with a turbo busa motor in it and a bandaid holding it together. sounds like I need schoolin! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

lol lol!! I can feel the love here lol lol !! Greg I love reading your posts!! Kind of live'ns things up. lol

3rd Gsxr 1000 build under way . 50 hp shot of NOS calling it THE BUSA KILLER !! LOL lol
( stock busa of course) lol
That oughta get ya going !!

Great thread Greg !!