RENEGADE
#11
#19
RENEGADE
I would't hold your breath on the 80+ hp.
The intake and exhaust was good for about 10hp at the wheels (low 50s at the wheels). That is the best gain going right now. The 12.1's (OEM=10.3:1)big valves did not pickup a thing on our dyno. The cams are one of those items that were not available when we set ours up, but we have worked with cams from other sources and there are some issues that coplicate there usage. The Outlanders and Renegades are equipped with cam sensors that comunicate with the ECMs. Timing is a non adjustable feature of the ECMs so is idle control. About the only tuning that can be controled is fuel mix via a TFI. I bought the woods for a Outlander when they were quoting 75 hp at the wheels for stage 2 less cam, what we got was low 50s at the wheels, same result on 3 machines. I ordered another stage 1 intake and exhaust for my Renegade, since it was the biggest gains we were able to find and there parts are good quality, so I do recomend them, I just don't want fokes thinking they are going to double there HP with basic airflow and compression mods. 20% to 30% is about the max you can expect to gain from those types of mods, and thats about what they provide.
The intake and exhaust was good for about 10hp at the wheels (low 50s at the wheels). That is the best gain going right now. The 12.1's (OEM=10.3:1)big valves did not pickup a thing on our dyno. The cams are one of those items that were not available when we set ours up, but we have worked with cams from other sources and there are some issues that coplicate there usage. The Outlanders and Renegades are equipped with cam sensors that comunicate with the ECMs. Timing is a non adjustable feature of the ECMs so is idle control. About the only tuning that can be controled is fuel mix via a TFI. I bought the woods for a Outlander when they were quoting 75 hp at the wheels for stage 2 less cam, what we got was low 50s at the wheels, same result on 3 machines. I ordered another stage 1 intake and exhaust for my Renegade, since it was the biggest gains we were able to find and there parts are good quality, so I do recomend them, I just don't want fokes thinking they are going to double there HP with basic airflow and compression mods. 20% to 30% is about the max you can expect to gain from those types of mods, and thats about what they provide.
#20
RENEGADE
I started that post this morning, and failed to send it till just now so I did not see all the other reply's that were made in between.
But when those RW kits first came out there were not any crank numbers offered back then, I have yet to see any from RW or anyone else for that matter. But 62 is your stock factory crank hp # provided by Can-am, so if you add 20 to 30% to that then there is potential to break 80 hp at the crank. I am not sure that the percentages remain constant in terms driveline losses, I think it might be more realistic to say low to mid 70s at the crank.
But more to what counts IMO, is what makes it to the ground, so When I say low- mid 50s at the wheels I would bet that with proper hard surface tires for dyno testing, thats what you would see if you bought one of those kits for your machine. Thats 10-12hp gain over stock.
But when those RW kits first came out there were not any crank numbers offered back then, I have yet to see any from RW or anyone else for that matter. But 62 is your stock factory crank hp # provided by Can-am, so if you add 20 to 30% to that then there is potential to break 80 hp at the crank. I am not sure that the percentages remain constant in terms driveline losses, I think it might be more realistic to say low to mid 70s at the crank.
But more to what counts IMO, is what makes it to the ground, so When I say low- mid 50s at the wheels I would bet that with proper hard surface tires for dyno testing, thats what you would see if you bought one of those kits for your machine. Thats 10-12hp gain over stock.