Wow, all of the core knowledge group have disappeared from the Connection over the years.
Anyway, couple of quick questions because I couldn't find the answers in some of the old threads. Is it necessary to lock the piston at TDC to check the gap or just ensure that it's there? When I bought the Pami 2 race cams I was told that .008 for intake and .010 for exhaust was a good gap to go with. Seemed loose from the .004-.006 that we're used to on stock but it worked. I'm putting the A1/A2's in my son's bike right now and the exhaust is at .007 but intake is .003. I've got the shim calculator pulled up but need to know what a good baseline is to go with on the intake side.
Mario? BigMike? Jed? Gregg? Seth? OMR? Somebody has to know. I've got a handful to choose from but don't have a clue as to where it should be for the RWR cams.

 

PM THEBOM and he will know!

 

Howdy Ace,
No you don't have to lock the crank to check gap, just make sure its there.
But be sure to lock it to make adjustment, to keep certain you do not move it during dis or re assembly....

I run .003-.004 intake gap, and .008-.009 exhaust gap. Seems like this is what TheBom recommended.

 

forgot to mention...I have the A1/A2 grinds

 

I found that A1A2 likes .006-.007 intake and .007-.008 exhaust. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Four different recommendations between the two forums and one from the source! Seems like they will work somewhere between .003-.007 on intake and .004-.009 on exhaust. I just have to find a happy medium that works for my setup I guess. I'm still open to all input.
My next question is do the gaps have to match exact on each cam set? Can one side intake be a .004 gap and the other side a .005??? It's hard to match them exactly but I'm trying. If they have to match I'm either going to have to buy new shims or get these shaved down. If it's not a precise measurement then I have a handful to try different settings with.

 

No , both lobes don't have to be the same but you should be able to get them with in .001 of each other.

On your valve shim clearance, remember they wear tighter.

 

a few weeks back I had Ron Woods himself set up my head and this is what he aimed for.

"I found that A1A2 likes .006-.007 intake and .007-.008 exhaust".

 

I talked to Elliott at RWR yesterday and he said for the A1A2 the gap should be .004-.005 for both intake and exhaust. When I inquired about a little looser exhaust setting he said that .006 would be fine.
So does it depend on what day of the week you call them, or is there a debate even in house there??? Just curious.

BOM, thanks for the heads up on them wearing tighter. They are within .001 of eachother but I am shooting for a match once I figure out my baseline. My intakes are currently larger than the exhaust side but that will change this evening when I get home.

Why so many different answers!?!

 

Probably from a warranty or reliability point of view. Ramps are slow and thus is you want the highest performance, run the clearances alittle wider so that the valves open alittle faster and less bleed off during overlap. When running race specs you just have to check the clearances more often. You don's want to be too loose and have the valves beat the seats.

OMR