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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 02:53 PM
  #11  
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If the head is stock, check the intake valves. I've seen them cup out with as few as 50hrs. I always replace the valve seals. Just make it as clean as possible and be sure to torque everything , even down to the smallest 6mm.

A manual is almost a must for the first few builds.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 03:40 PM
  #12  
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I wasn't planning on taking the head off again but the valves looked good when i put the piston in. I guess i assumed i could change the valve springs without removing the head, is that not the case? I ordered some springs from Eric today, hopefully by next weekend i'll have everything to put them in.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 04:46 PM
  #13  
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I do not remember the torque setting to use on the head studs and bolts, but my manual was way too high.... Jeff or someone can chime in with the rigth settings.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 06:42 PM
  #14  
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37 foot pounds on the 4 main bolts and 24 foot pounds on the outer smaller bolts.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:06 AM
  #15  
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The book says 44ftlbs but I have pulled the stay bolts into. Use 40 ftlbs on the 4 stay bolts, 21ft on the 4 8mm bolts, 89inlb on the 6mm. I use an arp lube on the threads. This is what I use for torque specs.

You can't tell if the valves are bad till you pull the springs off and look at the valve head face that sits on the seat and the seat it's self.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:27 AM
  #16  
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So i do have to take the head off to do this? I have a fitting that lets me put compressed air in the head to hold the valves in place, and another tool that will compress the spring to let me pull the retainers off. The tool does require a bit of room to compress the spring. Has anyone been able to change the springs without removing the head?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:37 AM
  #17  
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Not that I know of.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 08:29 AM
  #18  
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The specs i quoted came from Eric at OMW and the instruction kit with the 730 kit. I used these specs and have not had any problem.

Bom - good to know there is a torque spec for the 6mm bolts - I always tightened then by hand until they were snug.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 09:12 AM
  #19  
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Well if i have to take the head off, i mightaswell replace the valve guides and seals, and if i have all of that out of the head, i mightaswell try to polish it up a little bit.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #20  
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McKay that's the best thing you could do, there is so much metal in the exhaust side port, save a few bucks and get the head done I tell you there is allot of hidden power in the DS head. Call Me if you want a number of a guy who dose good work porting and will do the springs and seals and lap in the valves for reasonable price.
 
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