Are team-pami's clutch springs different than ron woods clutch springs?
#1
I have woods springs and fourth gear is still slipping a little, i'm runnig amsoil 10w-40 synthetic, i have woods stage 1 kit and if i get team-pami torque cams and a hi-comp. piston or a 760 kit i can't imagine the slip i'll have. can i get stronger springs? it'll pull harder but then i'll get a hydralic clutch if i have to.
#2
I just Talked to Don(Knutz)when he tore my motor apart he compared the woods springs with the Team-Pami springs and noticed just a slight difference Team-Pami's spring are a little stiifer and the material is alittle thicker than the Woods springs,I am keeping the Woods springs for now.I dont plan on trying synthetic untill after break-in of the 760 kit
#3
After a good weekend of ripping up the beach at Pismo with Jeffinrivercity on our 760's, I can honestly say that the Team Pami clutch springs are stiffer. They do require a stronger pull, but even with the torque of the 760 after many repeated drag races[slipping the clutch to keep the nose down] the clutch never showed any signs of unintentional slip. There was a slight question as to if Jeffs clutch was slipping or not, so I've set him up with our springs as well.
#4
I have just installed the Team Pami 12/1 piston(JE), sport cams, valve springs,.5mm head gasket and had a local shop clean up the head ,along with the Ron Woods stage 1 (pipe, cdi,and carb), and I have not had any problems with the clutch slipping?
We just got back from little sahara in okla. and spanked about everything but alcohol bigbore banshees. 2nd gear starts,3/4 throttle, dump the clutch and hang on! What a rush!!!!
BIGDADDY650
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
We just got back from little sahara in okla. and spanked about everything but alcohol bigbore banshees. 2nd gear starts,3/4 throttle, dump the clutch and hang on! What a rush!!!!
BIGDADDY650
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#7
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#10
You can E-mail me at knutzconcepts@msn.com, fax at (702)647-8513, or call at (702) 236-6852 between 8:00A.M. and 7:00P.M. monday-friday.
I can send your crank back to Germany to have them see if it can be salvaged. If the bearing is gone, you may have damaged the crank and/or rod though. Since the pin is replaced to gain the stroke, the crank may be able to be repaired[and stoked while at it if you want]and we have several options for rods if they it is damaged. A rough estimate for the replacement of the crank pin and a new, stock conecting rod, would be about $550. That would be provided that your crank could be repaired. Shipping to and from Las Vegas would be additional.
Now might not be a bad time to step up to a #2 kit though, as long as your tearing into it anyway. If you would like to contact me, we could discuss your options.
I can send your crank back to Germany to have them see if it can be salvaged. If the bearing is gone, you may have damaged the crank and/or rod though. Since the pin is replaced to gain the stroke, the crank may be able to be repaired[and stoked while at it if you want]and we have several options for rods if they it is damaged. A rough estimate for the replacement of the crank pin and a new, stock conecting rod, would be about $550. That would be provided that your crank could be repaired. Shipping to and from Las Vegas would be additional.
Now might not be a bad time to step up to a #2 kit though, as long as your tearing into it anyway. If you would like to contact me, we could discuss your options.