I have had the same problem with different carbs. My grandfather tought me this, take a small hammer and a chisel and tap a small groove in the side of the screw, then turn your chisel to the side so you can tap the screw and turn it. Sometimes you have to make more than one groove (the screws are kinda soft), so try and space them out a little if the need arises. You'll have to find some unsuspecting victim to hold the carb (a vise with soft jaws would be ideal). I went to a allen head screw on my bomber for jetting in the field. I think impact drivers work really well also, I've just never had one when I needed it. later

 

What worked for me was those new Craftsman screw removers old Bob Vila advertises. The brass was kinda soft so I drilled into them some with a small bit. Once the removers got a bigger bite they backed out. These removers work better on steel screws though.

 

I had the same issue. I haven't got one screw off yet. I just bought the impact driver (I think it was 12.99 from Kregan Auto Parts.)

I purchased the screw removers (Craftsman) before reading this column. I think I will return them.

I have talked with a few others and they say the needle nose vise grips work well. I will probably use this method and replace with allen head.

Watch Stainless Steel screws as they can gall-up easier.

 

SCS,

When you go to the hardware store to pick up your new allen head screws, could you post the size on here? I'd like to get a hold of my screws before I take anything apart. I'm not very confident in the hardware/automotive shops around here. I just moved into this area about a year ago so I still don't have all the hot spots for parts mapped out. If I can't find them right off, I think I'd rather have my carb still assembled instead of breathing dust etc in the garage. (Two dogs can kick up a lot of dust, even on concrete - not sure how they do it.)

 

Blackhawk,
The screws for the fuel bowl are: 3 of the 4mm x 10mm, and 1 of the 4mm x 12mm. The longer one goes where the idle adjustment bracket connects. Stainless works fine but it is a good idea to use anti-sieze compound on the screws, Stainless or not.

 

I removed my carb, turned it upside down, placed the carb on a "padded workspace", gripped it firmly and used the impact driver w the #2 bit , and removed all four screws with a couple of light taps with the hammer on the end of the impact driver with no casualties! I also went to the hardware store, as in the previous post, and picked up stainless steel replacement allen socket head screws. 3-4mm x 10mm and 1-4mm x 12mm for the screw that holds the idle adjustment cable. Small vise grips are definetely a plus though, just in case.

 

The screws are lightly coated with locktite before assembly at the factory, this is why they seem so thight. This is important to know because if the new screws are over torqued, as they would to resemble the original force used to remove them, the carburetor will be damaged and will eventually leak. Especially if allen head screws are used. when installing the new screws be sure to just snug them as using only your index finger will do. Locktight is not necessary but, as mentioned, antiseize is a good idea.

All the above removal methods are all effective though a "worst case scenario", if the original screws won't come out, is to drill the head/s off the offending screws. Once the heads are gone the float bowl will come off then tap on the end of the remaining screws (to break the locktite loose) and simply remove them with plyers or vice grips My $.02