Is the K&N jet kit worth the money? What kind of added performance will you get? Would it be just as good just to rejet the stock carb?


also


Some of you have said that your running with your airbox cover off. Why is that, for increased air flow? What if you were to leave the cover on and drill some holes in the top?

What are your thoughts?

 

I got the K&N power kit for my 2002 DS650 baja. I installed the needle and jet(180) it recommended for my elevation(sea level to 1000) and I noticed a big performance gain. It seemed to run a little lean so I went up one jet size(185) and it was perfect. I did have a problem with the dynojet needle bogging from 2000 to 4000 rpm, so I put the stock needle back in and it worked perfect. So If I had to do it again I would save some money and buy the k&n filter and some jets and go that way. There is a listing on this forum about jetting that you could find out what jet you need for your elevation. Hope this helps.

 

So you would recommend leaving the stock needle in when you jet it?

 

It worked better for me. And it will save you money on buying the whole kit.

 

I did have a problem with the dynojet needle bogging from 2000 to 4000 rpm, so I put the stock needle back in and it worked perfect.



JMAC, Hmm, did you leave the clip postion the same or was it changed? Did you have to change jet sizes after the different needle?

I say get it. It is a pain in the **** to get all the jets. this way you have them all and your ready to go anywhere.

 

I left the clip in the stock position 3rd from top. I did go to 185 from 180 after I put the stock needle back in. It seemed to run a little lean on the 180 with the stock needle. Demonds has a good point on getting the whole kit, you will have alot of jets to chose from for riding at different elevations.

 

I found the dynojet needle to have much better throttle response throughout the rev range, on more than one pipe I've used. The stock needle is a little rich at the bottom, and caused little hick-ups when gunning it under load at the bottom of hills, and trying to pull out of g-outs. The midrange of the stock needle seemed a little stronger to me, but I felt it suffered on the bottom so I eventually stuck with the dynojet needle after many swaps. For me, the performance of the needle alone has made it worth my while to buy.

I also run with no lid - removed the snorkels and plugged the holes with 1-1/4" PVC pipe caps. Much more air flow, resulting in higher jetting. If you do this, go by the stage3 dynojet instructions instead of stage1. Filter stays cleaner - its not pulling in everybody's roost ahead of you like the snorkels do...

 

Will I have to rejet if I run my machine with the airbox lid off?

 

I just bought a DynoJet kit - looking forward to trying out the new needles. Hope there is better throttle response with them.

I gotta change out the jets too because their needles are made for their jets. Can't just leave the other jets in! They are not measured the same either. So it may be just like starting over...

HITOWER, I might need some of your help[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Go here for Mikuni/Dynojet conversion : http://home.swbell.net/tharthun/home/index.htm

yes, you'll have to rejet if you run with no lid, or with a carb mount filter. Roughly, on average for the DS, you'll drop the needle clip one notch (raise the needle) and go up two main jets, depending on elevation.

I run with no lid, snorkels removed, and their holes plugged. Also removed the drain cap on the bottom, so any little bit of moisture that gets in can run right out. With Yoshi pipe, I use 195 Dyno main, Dyno needle in 3rd clip position (from top) and throttle response is awesome. After hearing a lot about the stock needle around here, I put it back in and lost low end response, went back to Dyno needle.

The stock needle postion is the 4th clip groove. Dyno needle for stock pipe and air cleaner should be 2nd. 3rd with K&N and no lid...


Glad to help with the Raptor, eRAPTOID!