I got a prm swing arm skid. How the hell do you get the old plastic skid off? It looks like you have to take out the whole rearend. I took off the sprocket to get one side off. But the side with the brake rotor is a pain. It looks like it could come off if you take off the rotor, but thats easier said then done. I tried to take off the rotor, and broke off the star socket in the bolt, they are that tight. So, that leads to the nex question. How can I get out that piece thats broke off in the bolt? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

 

Well, yeas you do have to take the rear end almost completely apart to put it on. I would suggest greasing your axle bearings while you have it apart.

 

If the broken piece is in that tight you might need to take a small punch and lightly hit the broken piece to loosen it up then try gravity, if it doesn't fall out try a magnet or superglue a handle on it carefull not to get it on the outside

 

I didn't need to hear what a pain it is to install a swingarm skid...I guess the alternative is to ride careful and slow over the rocks...naaaah!

You're right about having to remove the brake hub with brake disc on the LH side, and the sprocket on the rear hub on the RH side...i'm reading in the Shop Manual right now. I would venture to say that the manual still over simplifies the process...it fails to mention all the loctite the factory guys used when installing the pieces. Probably a little heat from a torch would help free up the screws...

Let us know how you come out and how that PRM skid plate works out....I've got one from Pro Armor on the way so you know what I've got to look forward to myself.

If anyone disagrees with the application of heat to those damn screws please speak up....

 

You don't have to remove anything - loosen the axle nut (screw it towards the bearing carrier), remove the clip in the groove of the axle, slide over the brake rotor hub (with rotor still on it), slide the axle out the other way just far enough to get to the bolts.
The bolts on the rotor are probably loc-tighted.
Don't torque the axle nut real tight - the book gives no spec - use a strap wrench, not a big pipe wrench like a hillbilly would, and snug it well, then torque the locking bolt that goes through it.

 

Hightower...thanks, man! The tip about using a strapwrench instead of a big-azz pipe wrench was classic...what about a torch wrench???[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] Thanks again for sharing your seasoned insight...

 

when I got the PRM skids I got to the same point and there was no instructions sent with the plates. I called PRM and they e-mailed and snail mailed the instructions to me, I am still not sure why they don't send them in the first place. they suggested to cut the old bolts with a Hacksaw. mine came out pretty easy once I got the axel loose like Hightower described. but I have to admit it had me stumped for a couple.

 

Return the PRM and buy the Pro-Armour. It mounts to the plastic parts on the stock swingarm.
You have to get your hands in a couple tight spots to mount it but don't have to remove anything.

 

the PRM plate went on real easy once you un-do the axel nut and slide the axel either direction. the brake disc and sprocket <u>do not</u>have to be taken off. not to mention it gives you the opportunity to check the bearings and give them some fresh grease.

 

DOH! Just got 2 full sets of Pro-armor. Glad to hear I dont have tom remove anything. I'll give a review after Sand Mtn. I like rocks or they seem to like me.....