DS650 Low Oil Pressure
#11
03-17-2000, 08:30 PM
I'm with trailmix on my 400ex, it had some breakin shavings on first oil change but none after that. I'm hoping to have 10 hrs. on the DS after this weekend and if my dealership has my new filter will be changing the oil the first of next week. Will let ya know what I find in the oil and filter.
#12
03-17-2000, 10:51 PM
I have about 20 hours on my DS650. Scooby you mentioned that your filter wasn't changed with the first oil change so it's possible that shavings from break in were still present at second oil change.
Also my oil light was flickering around 8hrs and stayed on at 10hrs. The dealer (Sacremento, CA) called the factory and was told to 'free up an interal check valve'. He assured me that no damage could be done with the check valve faulty.
He also replaced the sensor with a BMW unit and the light has not flickered since.
I have also had problems with water entering my headlight twice and both bulbs blew the second time.
Two more things worth noting: Something came loose in my bearing carrier and locked up my axle. An 'update' was performed on the retainer and no problems since. Second and most annoying is an intermittant power loss in midrange pulling up hills. I have to shift down to regain power and almost stalled on a steep hill once. I'll try it this weekend and post if it has been fixed.
Roost on
Yella Terra
Also my oil light was flickering around 8hrs and stayed on at 10hrs. The dealer (Sacremento, CA) called the factory and was told to 'free up an interal check valve'. He assured me that no damage could be done with the check valve faulty.
He also replaced the sensor with a BMW unit and the light has not flickered since.
I have also had problems with water entering my headlight twice and both bulbs blew the second time.
Two more things worth noting: Something came loose in my bearing carrier and locked up my axle. An 'update' was performed on the retainer and no problems since. Second and most annoying is an intermittant power loss in midrange pulling up hills. I have to shift down to regain power and almost stalled on a steep hill once. I'll try it this weekend and post if it has been fixed.
Roost on
Yella Terra
#13
03-17-2000, 10:51 PM
I have about 20 hours on my DS650. Scooby you mentioned that your filter wasn't changed with the first oil change so it's possible that shavings from break in were still present at second oil change.
Also my oil light was flickering around 8hrs and stayed on at 10hrs. The dealer (Sacremento, CA) called the factory and was told to 'free up an interal check valve'. He assured me that no damage could be done with the check valve faulty.
He also replaced the sensor with a BMW unit and the light has not flickered since.
I have also had problems with water entering my headlight twice and both bulbs blew the second time.
Two more things worth noting: Something came loose in my bearing carrier and locked up my axle. An 'update' was performed on the retainer and no problems since. Second and most annoying is an intermittant power loss in midrange pulling up hills. I have to shift down to regain power and almost stalled on a steep hill once. I'll try it this weekend and post if it has been fixed.
Roost on
Yella Terra
Also my oil light was flickering around 8hrs and stayed on at 10hrs. The dealer (Sacremento, CA) called the factory and was told to 'free up an interal check valve'. He assured me that no damage could be done with the check valve faulty.
He also replaced the sensor with a BMW unit and the light has not flickered since.
I have also had problems with water entering my headlight twice and both bulbs blew the second time.
Two more things worth noting: Something came loose in my bearing carrier and locked up my axle. An 'update' was performed on the retainer and no problems since. Second and most annoying is an intermittant power loss in midrange pulling up hills. I have to shift down to regain power and almost stalled on a steep hill once. I'll try it this weekend and post if it has been fixed.
Roost on
Yella Terra
#14
03-18-2000, 12:32 AM
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desertds, The oil filter that I bought at a BMW motorcycle dealership worked perfectly on the DS650. It was identical - they both said champion on it. I would by a BMW oil filter if you don't have a bombarier one.
When you drain the oil, don't try to loosen the drain plug on the oil reservoir to drain the oil in it. Instead, loosen the clamp on the oil hose that feeds into the crankcase and pull the hose off to drain the oil in the reservoir. Only about 2/3 of the oil in the system will be drained so far. The oil comes out in a hurry! It would be nice to have some sort of hose pincher so you don't spill oil all over the place when you disconnect the hose. Oh, I forgot, before you start draining oil, remove the oil dipstick so that there isn't a vacuum or pressure in the system. Re-install the hose after draining.
Then you move to the drain plug underneath the ATV. Be careful loosening the drain plug. Mine was on so tight I started to strip the plug. There is something strange about the plug. My socket would not stay flush and wanted to slip off at an angle when trying to loosen it. An additional quart or so of oil will drain from the crankcase. The new oil filter comes with a new washer for the drain plug. Don't torque the drain plug very much or you will easily strip the threads on the aluminum crankcase since the plug is steel.
Next, the oil filter needs replacing. When you remove the two HEX bolts, it gets kinda messy with oil spilling onto the crankcase. The old oil filter may "stick". I had to use pliers to give it a tug out. Don't install the new filter yet, you need to bleed the system first! The service manual says to remove one spark plug. Then you need to loosen or remove (not sure which) the oil bleeding screw. On my ATV I couln't get the oil bleeding screw loose. I bent a brand new screwdriver trying to loosen it and the screw itself started to get damaged. Next, be sure that the engine kill switch is OFF and press the start button to turn the crank and bleed oil out through the filter chamber. Tighten the bleeding screw. The new oil filter comes with an O-ring gasket for the oil filter cover. Replace the gasket and install the oil filter and cover.
You will need 4 quarts of oil, although only a portion of the 4th quart will be needed. When you add oil, don't overfill or underfill it! You need to start the engine to circulate the oil to get an accurate reading of the oil level. I added a little bit to much oil because I was measuring the level with near cold oil without circulating the oil properly. After I rode the ATV and checked the oil again it had risen slightly OVER the max fill mark.
Good Luck!
When you drain the oil, don't try to loosen the drain plug on the oil reservoir to drain the oil in it. Instead, loosen the clamp on the oil hose that feeds into the crankcase and pull the hose off to drain the oil in the reservoir. Only about 2/3 of the oil in the system will be drained so far. The oil comes out in a hurry! It would be nice to have some sort of hose pincher so you don't spill oil all over the place when you disconnect the hose. Oh, I forgot, before you start draining oil, remove the oil dipstick so that there isn't a vacuum or pressure in the system. Re-install the hose after draining.
Then you move to the drain plug underneath the ATV. Be careful loosening the drain plug. Mine was on so tight I started to strip the plug. There is something strange about the plug. My socket would not stay flush and wanted to slip off at an angle when trying to loosen it. An additional quart or so of oil will drain from the crankcase. The new oil filter comes with a new washer for the drain plug. Don't torque the drain plug very much or you will easily strip the threads on the aluminum crankcase since the plug is steel.
Next, the oil filter needs replacing. When you remove the two HEX bolts, it gets kinda messy with oil spilling onto the crankcase. The old oil filter may "stick". I had to use pliers to give it a tug out. Don't install the new filter yet, you need to bleed the system first! The service manual says to remove one spark plug. Then you need to loosen or remove (not sure which) the oil bleeding screw. On my ATV I couln't get the oil bleeding screw loose. I bent a brand new screwdriver trying to loosen it and the screw itself started to get damaged. Next, be sure that the engine kill switch is OFF and press the start button to turn the crank and bleed oil out through the filter chamber. Tighten the bleeding screw. The new oil filter comes with an O-ring gasket for the oil filter cover. Replace the gasket and install the oil filter and cover.
You will need 4 quarts of oil, although only a portion of the 4th quart will be needed. When you add oil, don't overfill or underfill it! You need to start the engine to circulate the oil to get an accurate reading of the oil level. I added a little bit to much oil because I was measuring the level with near cold oil without circulating the oil properly. After I rode the ATV and checked the oil again it had risen slightly OVER the max fill mark.
Good Luck!
#15
03-18-2000, 01:00 AM
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YellaTerra, you mentioned to 'free up an interal check valve'. I have a shop manual and am trying to figure out what you are referring to. There is an engine oil presssure regulator comprissed of a plug screw, compression spring, and ball. It is inside the crankcase and would require removing the crakcase cover on the right hand side of the motor. Your dealer didn;t have to go through all this did he? Maybe you are referring to the oil bleeding screw inside the oil filter chamber?
Your intermittent power lose when climbing a hill could be simply the lack of low end due to the lousy stock pipe on the DS650. I am "afraid" to climb steep hills until I get my pipe because the DS can bog at low RPM. I too have experienced this problem when climbing a hill.
Your intermittent power lose when climbing a hill could be simply the lack of low end due to the lousy stock pipe on the DS650. I am "afraid" to climb steep hills until I get my pipe because the DS can bog at low RPM. I too have experienced this problem when climbing a hill.
#16
03-18-2000, 01:01 AM
#18
03-18-2000, 11:42 PM
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Finally no more flashing oil light!!! After PROPERLY changing the INCORRECT oil in the engine and adding 20W50 non-synthetic KAWA-CHEM oil my oil light no longer comes on. The DS seems to like this oil better. To bad it took 2 months to resolve this. The only remaining issue with the oil is that for the life of me I cannot get that darn oil bleeding screw loose. I am going to have to order a new screw and bring the DS to the dealer for them to drill it out or something. I am assuming that to loosen the screw you turn it counter clockwise, correct?
Now I'm ready to install my much needed Ron Wood Stage One Kit!
Now I'm ready to install my much needed Ron Wood Stage One Kit!
#19
03-26-2000, 08:43 AM
Scooby,
I do not have a manuel yet so I'm not sure which 'check valve' the dealer was referring to.
He seemed to be as unsure as I was as he tried to repeat what the factory had told him. I believe that they are referring to the oil pressure regulator as the dealer mentioned that it is located 'inside' the engine and would require major access.
At this point I'm not sure anyone knows but I believe that it was a faulty pressure sensor.
On one hand I'm glad to hear that I'm not alone with bogging on hills but am disappointed that Bombardier missed this in testing. I'm watching the discussions on the RWR stage I kit and pipe recomendations eagerly and I'm sure Ill be more than happy If I take that route.
Keep up the postings everyone I'm learning a lot from the shared info.
Roost on
'00 DS650, '91 TRX250X, '87 TRX250X, '85 FL350R
I do not have a manuel yet so I'm not sure which 'check valve' the dealer was referring to.
He seemed to be as unsure as I was as he tried to repeat what the factory had told him. I believe that they are referring to the oil pressure regulator as the dealer mentioned that it is located 'inside' the engine and would require major access.
At this point I'm not sure anyone knows but I believe that it was a faulty pressure sensor.
On one hand I'm glad to hear that I'm not alone with bogging on hills but am disappointed that Bombardier missed this in testing. I'm watching the discussions on the RWR stage I kit and pipe recomendations eagerly and I'm sure Ill be more than happy If I take that route.
Keep up the postings everyone I'm learning a lot from the shared info.
Roost on
'00 DS650, '91 TRX250X, '87 TRX250X, '85 FL350R