guys, ive been runing without airbox lid, with a K&N for a long time, i had the snorkels in place running to the airbox, anyway the other day i ripped them out of there cause i only do sand riding so i dont think they are useful, anyway it cause a rejet to a 185, to a 195, and i may go up to a 200, so just pullin the snorkels off got alot more air through. just thought you ought to know, i havent even got to try it out yet, i just had to rejet to get it to rev up right in the shop, cant wait to try it in the sand.
Rob.

 

Sounds good ... you and I have a similiar set-up.

Let us know how it turns out.


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That seems like a good idea, but it might be a good idea to add some foam or similar corse filter element to the holes so that you don't allow tons of outside junk that close to your filter. That way you still get the benefit of not having the tubes, but you also have a little better filtration.

 

1-1/4" PVC pipe caps at the hardware store have the same outside diameter as the snorkels (1-5/8" I think it was), and can be put in the rubber boots and clamped in place of the snorkels to keep debris and roost out, as well as splashes, especailly if you like to hydroplane!! The schedule 80 PVC is charcoal instead of white - they look best if you can find them!
This does nothing to the air flow - I've ran hard with the holes open and closed with no difference in jetting. I'm a 195 w/ stock header, Yoshi slip-on, sea level. Do you have the gasket removed from the top of the airbox? Removing it increases the space between the seat and airbox opening, and for some larger riders the seat can actually collapse enough to close off the airbox opening if the gasket is left on! I've heard of this a lot, and sometimes wonder if some bikes have the airbox closer to the seat than others from factory imperfections...??...

Take the drain cap off the bottom too, so any splashes can run right out.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]