I just got it installed. It's a really easy install, almost to easy, I thought that I was missing something.

The stock throttle does work. However there is some modifying to be done. I had to cut back the cable a little and I'm trying to find something that will work so that I can angle the cable down once it gets to the carb. I used some bendable copper for now, but when I bent it, it crimped the tube and causes some drag on the cable when I press the throttle.

I need some help though. I need to know what screws do what. My carb came with zero instructions. There are three screws, one on the left side of the carb, which I believe is idle, one in the middle pointing down with a tube connected to it. What is that? And the other is on the front right also facing down, what is that. And how and where is the power jet? My carb came with the power jets but I don't know where to put them.

I tried to get out and test it but ran into some cops so they cut my ride real short. I guess it was a little late.

Everything went great as far as the install, I have a leak but I think that I didn't tighten something tight enough. Any ideas as to what I can use as a 90 degree angle that is hollow for the throttle cable?

Power seems to be substantial however like I said above my ride got cut short. The bike is louder though. And I had a tough time getting traction on the dirt and asfault so thumbs up to that.

Also got my CT rad shrouds on, they look sweet. I'll post some pics when I get them.

 

Well the only thing that you need to "turn" is the metering rod and the idle set. The idle set should be on the right of the carb as you sit on the quad. The metering rod is on the bottom of the slide and to richin the mixture I bealieve you turn it clockwise and counter for leaner. There is a little cap screw on the top back of the carb that covers the powerjet if you take that off you can see the power jet and it screws in and out just like a piolet jet on a regular carb. I took the stock snorkel and cut it off at the first ridge and then attached the carb mount filter to the snorkel and the snorkel to the carb and wala the filter does not rub on the seat anymore.

The tubes that are on the carb are vent and drain tubes. The one that connects from the bottom of the float bowl to the top of the carb is the fuel line for the powerjet. When there is enough suction it draws fuel from the bowl and dumps it into the carb through the power jet. If you do a search on lectron there is a few threads that will give you some good info and there is one that has a web page for tuning the carb. I think that I am right about the direction to turn the metering rod but just ot be safe do a search and find the page on tuning that way you can print it for a reference. Well good luck and happy tuning!

Phew that was long! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Do you have to pull the slide out of the carb to adjust the metering rod, or is there a way to turn it from the top of the carb? How do you know when the jetting is right, the plugs?

 

Lectron tuning

See also below, the next reply, it has more good stuff on power jets, with examples.

 

More tuning, including power jet
How to tune your HTG Lectron Carburetor

Physical Idle Adjustment: By turning adjusting screw on left side of carburetor.
Important: Be sure of proper throttle cable adjustment free play.

Idle Tuning: Turn metering rod in or out. Turn out for leaner idle. Metering rod should
be adjusted only 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time, then engine checked.

Fine Tuning Adjustment: Idle and bottom-end can be adjusted by a 1/4 turn metering rod adjustment. Push the metering rod in, rotate plastic slide insert, then screw the metering
rod bringing the flat surface of metering rod
so it faces the piston. This adjustment only
aides in tuning throttle response at the low
RPM of the idle and mid-range.

Mid-Range Tuning: if the low end is correct
but the mid-range is too lean or too rich, change
metering rod to a different 1st index number. The
first index number of the two numbers determines
richer or leaner mid-range and top-end tuning..
( a 8-1 needle is leaner and a 9-1 needle is richer)

A 9-1 needle with power jet at 1/2 turn, and a 8-1 needle with the power jet at 1 turn will produce the same top-end but different mid-range.


Tuning example starting with 8-1 metering rod: 1) If engine idles higher than usual or reluctantly returns to idle, then turn metering rod in (clockwise) 1/2 turn...if too rich than turn metering rod out (counter-clockwise) 1/2 turn. 2) If the mid-range is too lean, go to a 9-1 metering rod, and close the power jet 1/2 turn. 3) if the idle and mid-range are OK with a 8-1, but runs lean at top end....open power jet 1/2 turn, if power jet is at 1 1/2 turns you need to change to a 9-1 needle.

The Adjustable Power Jet

The adjustable power jet has a range from closed ( fully clockwise ), to 1 1/2 turns open ( counter clockwise). Always start rich ( 1 1/2 turns out ) and adjust from there.

 

UPDATE US 918 HOWS SHE DOING ON THE NEW CARB!

 

Thanks to the tuning directions that the great people on this forum dug up for me I think I've got it dialed in. I'll have to pull the plugs to make sure but it'll rev up really crisp without hesitation and the throttle response is incredible. I havn't changed the power jet yet I'll have to play with that as well. So far I'm really impressed. The bike is deffinetly louder than before. The idle is hard to get used to, sometimes is sounds like it's going to stall but just keeps pumping away. As far as power goes it's hard to tell exactly, I don't have anyway of measuring. I don't ride with anyone that would race me and I don't have a dyno. Just from riding it the last couple nights I can tell a real difference. I can't even get traction with the stock kenda's on asfault let alone dirt. In fact the power increase was so surprising it almost got away from me once. I would say that it's well worth it and a huge noticable difference but it's hard to tell exaclty how much. So far I love it though, the second best mod I've done next to my RWR CDI.

As far as the stock throttle goes, it will work. However you'll need to splice the cable housing a little and release more cable from the throttle assembly. I have the cable running through the rubber boot that comes with the carb but I'm not sure that it'll be able to hold up to the friction. I may have to get some plastic tubing to put inside the boot. It is a harder pull than the stock carb though, and the hand strength has deminished since I've been married. In my single days forget it, thumbs was stronger than an ox. LOL

Anyway, I'm happy with it, I've done about every bolt on mod that I can at this point so I think I'm done for a while. Plus the wife is really getting pissed. Every other day there is the UPS man again.

AZSand-You going riding this weekend? I want to try and get out and do some real testing. Not sure if I'll have time but I'd like to try. Where is the Canyon Drags that you go to all the time? I like to come check that out with you some time.

 

Good, glad the carb worked out for you. I was real happy with mine also after I got it dialed in. I beat bikes by like 4 bike lengths that used to beat me (demonDS LOL). Good thing I got to beat him the because he now has NOS. Anyways goos luck with the carb.

 

UPS tried to deliver mine today while I was gone! DOH! I'll get it on next time they come back though. I plan on going to the track afterwards so I can see what it will run with the new carb. It sounds like it is worth it from what you described. How hard was it to modify the stock throttle??

 

It wasn't hard to modify the throttle cable at all. Just don't splice to much of the housing. You'll see when you try to install the cable that the cable is not long enough and will leave the carb wide open.

Just splice the cable housing a little at a time. (Your cable may be streched out enough that you don't need to do this however.) I think that I had to splice about 2 inches. Don't take the gold fitting off, just splice the housing, then slide the fitting up to where you have spliced the cable to. You need to make sure to leave enough cable to get through the gold fitting, the rubber boot, the cable adjuster on the carb, the slide cover on the top of the carb, the gasket, then the spring, and then another 2 inches to get it to the middle of the slide.

It's hard to explain, you'll just have to play with it when you get it. If you have any questions let me know.