I was talking to Sam of Sam Coe and he found defect with the LA sleeve that will cause a leak in the same place and has a fix for it give him a call. http://www.samcoeperformance.com/ PS he is working on a 830 kit.

 

I am able to seal my head at 17+psi of boost on alcohol with cold plugs.

1) The head and cylinder MUST be 100% flat when using a copper gasket. I bought a precision straight edge so I could check my head every time it comes off. You can get one for $65 or less. If you can measure any warp I would have the head milled just enough to remove the warp.

2) I heat the copper gasket to soften it

3) I didn't have any luck with gasketworks copper spray. I now use permatex high temperature copper spray available at most auto stores. It works better. I put like 10 coats on each side, almost the whole can. I clean the gasket with alcohol before applying the copper spray. I let the gasket dry for at least 24 hours.

4) I clean & dry the head and cylinder surfaces with alcohol. I apply permatex ultra copper to both the head and cylinder to seal the coolant & oil passages. I don't put any where the O-ring is that seals the compression. I let it tack up for 20-30 minutes or so.

5) The cylinder O-ring I use is stainless, 0.043" diameter. The copper gasket I use is 0.043" thick. The general guidelines that were used are 25% of the gasket thickness is how much the O-ring should extend above the cylinder surface, assuming no receiver groove in the head. My O-ring extends 9-10 thousandths above the cylinder surface. If you have a receiver groove, receiver groove depth should be 75% of the O-ring protrusion and the receiver groove should be 1.5 times the wire width.

6) When I install the gasket, I tighten the bolts by hand and let it sit for at least 12 hours before torquing.

7) I try to follow the BMW F650 torque sequence. See http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/HGas.../HeadBolts.jpg Generally I don't start the motor until another 12 hours after torquing.

8) I warm the motor at around idle and check for oil leaks. I don't ride until I do a complete cool down. I don't ride too hard at first either. I put around for a bit and shut it off, repeating a couple times. Then I'll open it up a little to see if it is sealing. I re-torque the following day after it is completely cool otherwise you'll warp the head.

9) I torque the 8mm head bolts to around 22ft-lbs. I torque the 10mm stud nuts to 54ft-lbs to 60ft-lbs. I do have different studs but I'm not sure they are any different than OEM.

10) Chances are, if you don't have problems sealing the oil that runs up through the head, the O-ring doesn't protrude enough. You could try going more agressive with the protrusion in 0.001" increments, the limit being reached when the oil will no longer seal.

11) I don't use the original 8mm head bolts.

12) The stock 100mm cylinder has only 8mm of compression sealing surface. With a 105mm bore, this is reduced by 2.5mm. My O-ring is placed 5mm from the coolant passageway. Your's is probably too close.

13) Too much cylinder pressure can be "impossible" to seal, short of welding. What compression ratio are you running and with what fuel? When you tried the 0.020" gasket, you increased cylinder pressure even more, compounding the sealing problem. I wouldn't run nitrous with real high compression on gas. I lowered my compression to 8:1 and run alcohol. This seems to help with sealing the head. Running too lean can cause high cylinder pressure.

14) You could go back to a 100mm bore, giving you the surface you need to seal the head. Or, it may even be possible for some custom welding on the cylinder to increase the sealing area.

 

WOW!!!!

That my friends is attention to detail!

Now I know why Scooby is the fastest quad on this forum.



Biggerisbetter.

 

Good reading: Nitrous-Naughty and Nice

 

i talked to gary at tvi today, said give him a call he has the new head bolts in stock, and said he thinks he can help with the problem.

 

Did you make sure your head and cylinder surfaces aren't warped? You could also be blowing out your Head bolt nuts like mine did. Also what coolant are you running? If you are using that engine ice stuff that could also be your problem. And Majorecho I think the people you are reffering to that do the Nikasil is PSI Performance in Wisconsin. They do excellant work and I highly recommend them. Ask for bruce and tell them Tony Mignano in Los Angeles sent you. Good luck!

 

with the interest in the last 720 thread got me to thinking about the beginning days of the 720 kits.

 

Lot's of old faces on this thread. . .

Funny how the same issues that people ran into here are being experienced by some guys boring the Raptor 700 engine to 105 and running a High Compression Piston.

Some things don't change!