I have a?
#21
I have a?
Thanks but i tryd all those things allready, i'm begining to think that its not a jeting problem.
And by the way, i tryd today what you guys sagested and it dosent work[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img] any other ideas?????
Oh and the air around here is very cold and very dry, is this a factor?
thanks
And by the way, i tryd today what you guys sagested and it dosent work[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img] any other ideas?????
Oh and the air around here is very cold and very dry, is this a factor?
thanks
#22
I have a?
In very cold dry air the mixture will be leaner as the air molecules are more dense, more air = leaner mixture. Usually this condition requires moving up one jet size.
Based on your earlier posts it seems unlikely to be anything other than a carburetion problem or an air leak, as was suggested by Jiminok. If it was something other than carburetion why would it “if I stick the gas all the way it clears”.
The Dynojet kit is very good at getting the mixture right if you follow the directions for stage three providing you have an open, or nonexistent air box, and a free flowing exhaust. I recommend that you recheck you work, especially in the CV slide diaphragm area to make sure it was reassembled exactly as it was from the factory.
When jetting it is not prudent to change more than one thing at a time. In many cases, changing jet sizes and needle clip positions produce subtle changes. You must be in tune with these changes and if you change more than one thing at a time, one change can negate the positive effects of another and you can find yourself going in circles trying to find the right combination. Unless you are a “tuner”, jetting can be a very time consuming and frustrating process, but the results can be very worthwhile.
Step back, take a deep breath and start over. Check first for air leaks around the carb boot. An easy way to do this is to run the motor and spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner around the carb boot and intake manifold, if the RPM’s change significantly up or down, you have an air leak. Do this when the motor is cool, in a well ventilated area. If no leak is apparent move on to rechecking your previous work to make sure everything is reassembled exactly as is was before you made any changes. Start back at step one in the instructions and adjust everything accordingly. If the problem persists, change only the main jet size one size at a time and road test between changes looking for ANY improvement or worsening. If it gets better, even a little, go up one more size and test. If worse, go down one size. When it is as good as you can get it with the jet sizing, go to the clip position with the same procedure, one groove at a time.
If everything is installed correctly and there are no other problems (air leak) this procedure will work, if you don’t lose patience.
Based on your earlier posts it seems unlikely to be anything other than a carburetion problem or an air leak, as was suggested by Jiminok. If it was something other than carburetion why would it “if I stick the gas all the way it clears”.
The Dynojet kit is very good at getting the mixture right if you follow the directions for stage three providing you have an open, or nonexistent air box, and a free flowing exhaust. I recommend that you recheck you work, especially in the CV slide diaphragm area to make sure it was reassembled exactly as it was from the factory.
When jetting it is not prudent to change more than one thing at a time. In many cases, changing jet sizes and needle clip positions produce subtle changes. You must be in tune with these changes and if you change more than one thing at a time, one change can negate the positive effects of another and you can find yourself going in circles trying to find the right combination. Unless you are a “tuner”, jetting can be a very time consuming and frustrating process, but the results can be very worthwhile.
Step back, take a deep breath and start over. Check first for air leaks around the carb boot. An easy way to do this is to run the motor and spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner around the carb boot and intake manifold, if the RPM’s change significantly up or down, you have an air leak. Do this when the motor is cool, in a well ventilated area. If no leak is apparent move on to rechecking your previous work to make sure everything is reassembled exactly as is was before you made any changes. Start back at step one in the instructions and adjust everything accordingly. If the problem persists, change only the main jet size one size at a time and road test between changes looking for ANY improvement or worsening. If it gets better, even a little, go up one more size and test. If worse, go down one size. When it is as good as you can get it with the jet sizing, go to the clip position with the same procedure, one groove at a time.
If everything is installed correctly and there are no other problems (air leak) this procedure will work, if you don’t lose patience.
#23
#24
I have a?
When I first put a slip-on on my DS and started rejetting it seemed like a nightmare. I tried everything, and nothing worked. I took it took the dealer and said "what am I doing wrong?" They checked it out, and said nothing is wrong, you are hitting the rev limiter. What? So I bought a Pami CDI. Here's what happens, when you hit the rev limiter it f#@ks it up so good that the revs will drop down to where the limiter dis-engages, and it takes off again, especially if you keep the throttle pinned.
The thing is, the DS is not that particular about jetting, any of the settings you have been messing with will work just fine, just some better than others. 4-strokes aren't that particular. The Baja has a higher rev limit, not much but enough so that I rarely hit it, usually only if I grab a big handful of throttle in first gear. A Pami CDI will fix your problem. The limiter on the stock DS is a maniacal device, it kicks in where and when you don't possibly think it could. Once it is gone, you will be amazed at what a piece of crap it was.
The thing is, the DS is not that particular about jetting, any of the settings you have been messing with will work just fine, just some better than others. 4-strokes aren't that particular. The Baja has a higher rev limit, not much but enough so that I rarely hit it, usually only if I grab a big handful of throttle in first gear. A Pami CDI will fix your problem. The limiter on the stock DS is a maniacal device, it kicks in where and when you don't possibly think it could. Once it is gone, you will be amazed at what a piece of crap it was.
#25
I have a?
The problem is i'm not the only one in the family that drives it, so i'm afraid someone will blow the engine my over reving it.
You mite be right, i'm no expert, but i dont think its the rev limit, and i'm not going to spend $300 before i'm sure that is the problem, so thanks, but if you have eny other idea's i'l be glad to hear them.
You mite be right, i'm no expert, but i dont think its the rev limit, and i'm not going to spend $300 before i'm sure that is the problem, so thanks, but if you have eny other idea's i'l be glad to hear them.
#26
I have a?
I too was concerned about no limiter, but it is not a problem at all. The engine runs out of steam just above the stock limiter. The only way it would over-rev is with mods like a bigger carb and cams, without heavier valve springs. Switching CDI's is a 2 minute job, If there were somebody willing to let you try one?? I still think it is your problem.
#27
#29