I am doing my first valve job. and it needs it!! .007 & .003 on exhaust. .000 & .003 on the intake [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
but I was looking down the spark plug hole and saw the piston at TDC. The surface of the piston is not very pretty looking.. It looks like spilled coffey or water stained if you will. Its not a shiney looking like the side walls? I that normal??

 

I shouldn't say since I'm a "newbie" but after time carbon will build up and make it look that way. Running cheap oil will do that too.

 

Yes that's normal. The piston will be coated with carbon deposets, as well as the chamber and the exhaust ports.
The .007 exhaust valve is okay, even though the recommended tolerance is .004-.006. The valve clearance gets smaller over time, eventually reaching .000, and ulitmately keeping valves from closing all the way. Shoot for the high side of the tolerance - .006.
Don't forget to lock the crankshaft prior to removing cam chain. This way it will be impossible to re-assemble out of time on accident.
You don't need to buy the special locking bolt the manual calls for - you can just get an 8mm bolt about 60mm long, fully threaded, and sharpen the end of it.

 

whats the scoop on the shims under the bucket??? is that better should I do it with stockers??
Next wierd item. My cams have 2 holes and 2 marking lines on them.. They book only shows 1 of each on each cam?? whats the poop with that???

 

I think I found TDC
That is where the CAMS are in oposites almost in mirror. both are semi flat and the point on the lobes is facing oposites...

 

Correct. Now there is a bolt on the clutch side of the case, beneath the clutch cover. Its the one with the larger head than the clutch cover bolts. You remove this bolt, and install the extra long bolt I described, which screws against the crank in an indention and locks it from moving while you remove your cams and do all your work. That way you know it didn't move and you can put the cams back confident that they are in correct time with the crank. The shop manual shows it all farely well. Make sure you drain the oil from the crankcase first - it will leak from the screw hole when you remove if not.

 

Shim under the bucket is a conversion kit that helps prevent the loss of the shim that would normally be on top the bucket in the event of excessive valve float at high rpm. It is only suggested by most for valve lifts over .425" to my knowledge. It costs $255.

 

Hightower hit the nail on the head. It will be black from carbon deposits....unless you take a squirt bottle and spray it into the carb while the quad is running. Then you will have a sparkling clean piston again. This method has been used many a times by engine builders/racers to clean the pistons the easy way.

 

Rockey - spray what into the carb throat? You forgot a word, but i want it so I can try it! I've heard of cleaners, and even fuel additives to clean the chamber, but don't know what any of them are.

 

When the headgasket on my car blew out, the piston nearest was clean as a whistle. So I assume its water